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Old 05-11-2013, 02:22 PM   #1
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Electric Stabilizer Jacks - Noisy!

I have electric stabilizer jacks on my 2009 Rockwood 8306SS and the front set of jacks have developed a horrible awful squeaky noise everytime they are extended or retracted.

Is there some sort of maintenance I should be doing on these to keep them working properly?

Like greasing somewhere? Or WD-40? I cannot locate any spot where I should be doing this though...

Please advise.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:27 PM   #2
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I am unfamiliar with electric stabilizer jacks but I would not use WD-40, I would use a dry lubricant such as a silicone or white lithium. Once sprayed on, the accelerant (what makes the substance shoot out of the can) quickly dries leaving a dry coating on the surface. It also will not collect as much dust/dirt as a wet lubricant such as WD-40, although, being under the unit I am not sure how much of an issue this is since it will probably collect road grime anyway.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:27 PM   #3
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I use spray DRY LUBE on all my moving parts. (slide and stabilizers)
It lubricates, yet does not attract dirt that can cause binding and early failure.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:19 PM   #4
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OK but where specifically do I put this lubricant? From what I can see the entire motorized carriage is enclosed. I do not see any grease zerks or anywhere to put the DRY LUBE. Anyone else have the power stabilizer jacks? If so how do you do this?
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:31 PM   #5
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OK but where specifically do I put this lubricant? From what I can see the entire motorized carriage is enclosed. I do not see any grease zerks or anywhere to put the DRY LUBE. Anyone else have the power stabilizer jacks? If so how do you do this?
On the threaded screw and all the pivot points as well as the thrust brg if you can get to it.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:35 PM   #6
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I use spray DRY LUBE on all my moving parts. (slide and stabilizers)
It lubricates, yet does not attract dirt that can cause binding and early failure.
X2! Dry graphite in a spray can is what I use. Works great and dirt doesn't cling to it.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:35 PM   #7
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I can try but not really any noticeable locations where I would put it...anyone out there who has electric stabilizer jacks on their rockwood? If so, where specifically do you lubricate them? (pictures would be very helpful)
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:39 PM   #8
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X2! Dry graphite in a spray can is what I use. Works great and dirt doesn't cling to it.
Something like this?

Seymour 620-1506 Tool Crib Dry Graphite Lube - Amazon.com
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #9
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Yes, or anyone's dry lube or "chain lube"

Any bearing point or the actual screw and traveler nut will benefit from a spray.

Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON - 11 oz. : Amazon.com : Home Improvement

Blaster 8-GS Graphite Dry Lube Spray 5.5 Oz - Amazon.com
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:29 PM   #10
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Very helpful post! Thank you!
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:24 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by hayesb2 View Post
I have electric stabilizer jacks on my 2009 Rockwood 8306SS and the front set of jacks have developed a horrible awful squeaky noise everytime they are extended or retracted.
Please excuse the cynicism but I'm a amazed the electrical part of of your 2009 stab jacks are in fact even working. Our front end packed it in six months out from the dealer (warranty) and the rear end stab motor gave up the ghost right after the warranty TX'd. No worries, cranking the stabilizers down by hand is exponentially faster than the agonizingly slow electric option.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:38 AM   #12
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Spayed every exposed part under the trailer before heading out on the weekend with White Lithium Greese. White so I could see what I hit and missed. Did every screw, nut, rod and anywhere the legs made contact with metal when retracted. Worked amazing. Landing gear and legs came down smooth and quiet. Heck I even sprayed the truck Super Springs and any contact points on the 5ver hitch. 1 can a year and it pays off 10 fold.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:39 PM   #13
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Please excuse the cynicism but I'm a amazed the electrical part of of your 2009 stab jacks are in fact even working. Our front end packed it in six months out from the dealer (warranty) and the rear end stab motor gave up the ghost right after the warranty TX'd. No worries, cranking the stabilizers down by hand is exponentially faster than the agonizingly slow electric option.
Really? Is this the norm for others? Mine seem to be fine after 4 years, although yes they are quite slow...
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:45 PM   #14
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Spayed every exposed part under the trailer before heading out on the weekend with White Lithium Greese. White so I could see what I hit and missed. Did every screw, nut, rod and anywhere the legs made contact with metal when retracted. Worked amazing. Landing gear and legs came down smooth and quiet. Heck I even sprayed the truck Super Springs and any contact points on the 5ver hitch. 1 can a year and it pays off 10 fold.
Were your jacks squeaking and noisy prior to applying the White Lithium Greese? Everything I've read so far has been to not use any lithium grease or any wet lubricants...
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mike101 View Post
Spayed every exposed part under the trailer before heading out on the weekend with White Lithium Greese. White so I could see what I hit and missed. Did every screw, nut, rod and anywhere the legs made contact with metal when retracted. Worked amazing. Landing gear and legs came down smooth and quiet. Heck I even sprayed the truck Super Springs and any contact points on the 5ver hitch. 1 can a year and it pays off 10 fold.
Mike, everything I have read says to avoid grease (lithium or otherwise) because it attracts road dirt and will eventually bind up the works. It also gets caked on and is difficult to remove without a parts bath.

Let us know how it works out for you.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:35 PM   #16
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Dry graphite. ......
Sprays on wet then drys
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:44 PM   #17
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Here is the claim on the can. I used it last year and seemed to work...
Water- and heat-resistant formulation provides you with a long-lasting, heavy-duty lubricant. Reduces friction, while protecting against rust and corrosion. Sprays on evenly as a liquid, and sets up dry for a thick coating - will not splatter, melt, run, wash-off or freeze. Automotive use: Hinges, locks, latches, seat tracks, strike plates, cables, distributor cams, battery terminals, radio antennas, windshield wiper mechanisms, bolts, bearings and more
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:52 PM   #18
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Herk - can you please also check out my post on Electrical, Charging Systems & Solar: surge guard popping
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:55 PM   #19
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Here is the claim on the can. I used it last year and seemed to work...
Water- and heat-resistant formulation provides you with a long-lasting, heavy-duty lubricant. Reduces friction, while protecting against rust and corrosion. Sprays on evenly as a liquid, and sets up dry for a thick coating - will not splatter, melt, run, wash-off or freeze. Automotive use: Hinges, locks, latches, seat tracks, strike plates, cables, distributor cams, battery terminals, radio antennas, windshield wiper mechanisms, bolts, bearings and more
I use the same, if it gets to be a problem, I'll just pressure wash it off and start over again. As I stated previously, farmers have used grease for years on machinery with minimal problems. Everyone just has to use what they are comfortable with.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:10 PM   #20
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I use motorcycle chain lube. It's designed to lubricate in the dirty open environment. Works great!
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