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Old 03-15-2017, 01:33 AM   #1
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Fridge works Perfectly on AC, problems on LP

We are on our first outing with our new (to us) 2015 Rockwood Ultra V 2715VS. We've discovered a problem with our Dometic Refrigerator (model DMR702 LB). When using 110v it works flawlessly. Using LP the refrigerator lights normally. After about 2 minutes you can hear the igniter trying to light it again even though it is already burning. Then after it stops trying to light it flame goes out, turned off I assume because it thought it didn't light and turned off the gas flow. All other gas appliances work perfectly.

In doing a bit of research it sounds like a faulty theromcouple. I'm not familiar with this and am wondering if there are simple things I could do that might fix the situation. Is it a fix easily done by a person unfamiliar with it or do I take it to the repair shop? Thanks for your help and ideas.
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:47 AM   #2
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I don't think it has a thermocouple. If you don't have the manual, see post #4 here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...lem-76417.html

Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm not sure exactly how it knows that the gas has lit.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:32 PM   #3
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I don't think it has a thermocouple. If you don't have the manual, see post #4 here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...lem-76417.html

Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm not sure exactly how it knows that the gas has lit.
Thanks very much for the manual. I'll take a look to see if it addresses the issue.

Thanks again!
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:52 PM   #4
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Problem fixed! It must have been air in the lines. After relighting it about 2 dozen times it finally would keep burning longer and longer. Now...it's been on for 5 hours and I consider it fixed!
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:12 PM   #5
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Problem fixed! It must have been air in the lines. After relighting it about 2 dozen times it finally would keep burning longer and longer. Now...it's been on for 5 hours and I consider it fixed!
Next time, try lighting your stove burners for a minute or two to purge the line.
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Old 03-16-2017, 12:16 AM   #6
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Next time, try lighting your stove burners for a minute or two to purge the line.
But that's the odd part. We had been running not only the stove but the water heater and even the furnace for a full day and the fridge would still not keep lit. Each time we switched from AC to LP it would stay lit just a little bit longer until finally it stayed lit for about 15 minutes. The next day I tried it again and it stayed lit. Very pleased to have it working as we are heading west on Monday and will be 2 nights on the road.
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Old 03-16-2017, 01:39 AM   #7
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But that's the odd part. We had been running not only the stove but the water heater and even the furnace for a full day and the fridge would still not keep lit. Each time we switched from AC to LP it would stay lit just a little bit longer until finally it stayed lit for about 15 minutes. The next day I tried it again and it stayed lit. Very pleased to have it working as we are heading west on Monday and will be 2 nights on the road.
Never heard anyone report that kind of problem. Running the stove usually resolves the issue. I guess there's a first time for everything!
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Old 03-16-2017, 01:04 PM   #8
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Clean the back of the frig

A likely thing is that there is a spiderweb other stuff in the propane duct in the back of the refrigerator. You can blow it out with an air hose or can of air. You may not even see it but give it a try. Also check the back of your water heater. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:56 PM   #9
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Running the rest of the LP appliances purged the air out of the main "trunk' line, it did nothing for the air trapped in the line from the "trunk" to the fridge. I would fully expect it to take a bit of time to purge that line out as well, no matter how long you ran the other stuff.

The size of the flame is so small, that it would take a very long time to purge the main "trunk" line out just running the fridge. That's why you run the stove first. It'll purge out the main "trunk" line faster than the fridge will.

Your situation seem entirely normal to me.

Tim
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Old 03-16-2017, 04:08 PM   #10
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Running the rest of the LP appliances purged the air out of the main "trunk' line, it did nothing for the air trapped in the line from the "trunk" to the fridge. I would fully expect it to take a bit of time to purge that line out as well, no matter how long you ran the other stuff.

The size of the flame is so small, that it would take a very long time to purge the main "trunk" line out just running the fridge. That's why you run the stove first. It'll purge out the main "trunk" line faster than the fridge will.

Your situation seem entirely normal to me.

Tim
Also depends on where the fridge is located in relation to the stove and the lengths of any trunk lines..
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Next time, try lighting your stove burners for a minute or two to purge the line.
X2; That's SOP for me to light the stove after turning the gas tanks on to make sure all the air in the lines have been bled out.
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:50 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=OldBob;1445322]We are on our first outing with our new (to us) 2015 Rockwood Ultra V 2715VS. We've discovered a problem with our Dometic Refrigerator (model DMR702 LB). When using 110v it works flawlessly. Using LP the refrigerator lights normally. After about 2 minutes you can hear the igniter trying to light it again even though it is already burning. Then after it stops trying to light it flame goes out, turned off I assume because it thought it didn't light and turned off the gas flow. All other gas appliances work perfectly.

In doing a bit of research it sounds like a faulty theromcouple. I'm not familiar with this and am wondering if there are simple things I could do that might fix the situation. Is it a fix easily done by a person unfamiliar with it or do I take it to the repair shop? Thanks for your help and ideas.[/QUOTE

OURS DID THAT. Last Sept on the way to balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque. Called a friend. Learned to play with the igniter probe to get it in effective proximity to the flame. The bracket can be flexed or bent. Can't bend the tip much or it will break. Something to do with getting the temperasure or impedence or resistence to markup with the control board that might itself be a bit off standard. Wound up with the tip at nearly the gas jet end of the igniter, a spot that looks like the probe is not catching as much heat as the original position, where it was right in the blue of the flame where you might expect the most heat.

By the way, I know the tip will break at the 90 bend cause mine snapped off. Yet got it where it needed to be and have not touched it since. There is a new one now in my tool kit, but it is working so well now that I will not touch it.
Picture may follow if I can get one here in camp near dark.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:09 AM   #13
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My guess was going to be Spiders,,, parchley plugging the orfus !!!
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