Geo Pro - storage questions re: antenna and battery

[mdf257]

We bought a Geo Pro 19BH this summer and really enjoyed it - almost 20 nights since July 1 when we picked it up.

I'm having a dealer winterize the plumbing system, but will manage the rest of prep for off-site storage (in Michigan) myself.

2 questions for the hive mind here (I tried to do my due diligence on the search forum, but didn't find exactly what I was looking for).

1) Has anyone dealt with the multitude of antenna on the top of this unit? Are any of them removable to ease the process of covering the unit?

2) For battery storage in winter, my plan is to (1) pull the battery disconnect switch, (2) disconnect both batteries themselves, (3) put them on a battery tender for the winter, (4) reconnect next spring. I've bookmarked a few pages that talk through the logistics of disconnecting them and I've taken lots of pictures and videos so I can get them installed correctly.

Am I missing something? Do I need a separate battery tender for each battery, or is this something that I could keep an eye on and rotate as needed to maintain charge over winter?

I'm reasonably handy but confess to being pretty clueless when it comes to battery and electrical systems.

Thanks in advance, I've learned a lot from this forum this year already.

[hack522]

I'm uncertain about the antenna question, but I have used both separate and an occasional charge for the battery. Initially I was using my tender for my motorcycle. I have since purchased a separate one for the camper battery.

Hope that helps.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by mdf257

2) For battery storage in winter, my plan is to (1) pull the battery disconnect switch, (2) disconnect both batteries themselves, (3) put them on a battery tender for the winter, (4) reconnect next spring. I've bookmarked a few pages that talk through the logistics of disconnecting them and I've taken lots of pictures and videos so I can get them installed correctly.

If your battery is fully charged before you do the disconnect, there is no need to run a battery tender over the winter. I just posted a reply on another thread. It has a link to an Army Corp of Engineer article that states that a fully charged battery can be stored "almost indefinitely" if the temp is below 30.2 F. Temps in Michigan are almost guaranteed not to get cold enough to freeze a battery that only has a 50% charge. Fully charged, a battery won't freeze until temps are somewhere below -60F.



Self discharge rate for batteries slows as the temps fall. So the colder it gets, the better. Now if you are storing a battery down in Florida where temps will be shirt sleeve weather all "winter" a tender may be required.

[mdf257]

Thanks. To make sure I'm understanding, if I:

1) make sure the batteries are fully charged, using a voltmeter
2) pull the battery disconnect,
3) consider removing one of the terminals so that radio and LP leak detector don't continue to draw (something I've read about in other threads related to our unit),

I should be able to just let it sit as-is for the winter? That sounds much preferable to disconnecting them and transporting/storing over the winter.

We have a solar panel installed on the roof, and the digital gauge in the unit always shows full, though obviously the pending snow and cover for the unit means we can't just rely on this to keep the batteries in good shape over the winter.

[Scottnweeze]

The radio antenna comes off, and as far as the WiFi antenna, I use the tennis ball container that I had leftover from getting tennis balls to cover the 4 corner drain spouts. Little duct tape around the bottoms you’re good to go.

[mdf257]

Good idea about the tennis ball sleeve - I think I'll look around the house and/or make a trip to the dollar store to locate some creative protective housings for all those little items up top.

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by mdf257

Thanks. To make sure I'm understanding, if I:

1) make sure the batteries are fully charged, using a voltmeter
2) pull the battery disconnect,
3) consider removing one of the terminals so that radio and LP leak detector don't continue to draw (something I've read about in other threads related to our unit),

I should be able to just let it sit as-is for the winter? That sounds much preferable to disconnecting them and transporting/storing over the winter.

We have a solar panel installed on the roof, and the digital gauge in the unit always shows full, though obviously the pending snow and cover for the unit means we can't just rely on this to keep the batteries in good shape over the winter.

Yes you can let it sit for the winter probably. DEFINITELY disconnect your neg battery wire. Take a reading after 24 hours and make sure the disconnected batteries read at least 12.6 volts on your voltmeter at their terminals before you put on the winter cover. Otherwise put a charger on them. If they read less than 12.6 you may come back to frozen batts in the spring.
That done...you should NOT remove any antennas etc. fixed to your roof. Suggest putting down some styrofoam with tape to protect your cover from rubbing on sharp edges before covering anything with an edge that sticks up.
You might want to check every couple of months on the battery voltage to insure it stays above 12.3V...that will give you -20 degree protection vs. -80 protection when full.

[pawatt]

I would not cover the unit. The one year we covered ours we got more damage from the cover blowing in the wind and the tie downs rubbing then we ever got storing it uncovered. I've been an RV owner of some type for nearly 50 years.

[Campah]

Originally Posted by mdf257

We bought a Geo Pro 19BH this summer and really enjoyed it - almost 20 nights since July 1 when we picked it up.

I'm having a dealer winterize the plumbing system, but will manage the rest of prep for off-site storage (in Michigan) myself.

2 questions for the hive mind here (I tried to do my due diligence on the search forum, but didn't find exactly what I was looking for).

1) Has anyone dealt with the multitude of antenna on the top of this unit? Are any of them removable to ease the process of covering the unit?

2) For battery storage in winter, my plan is to (1) pull the battery disconnect switch, (2) disconnect both batteries themselves, (3) put them on a battery tender for the winter, (4) reconnect next spring. I've bookmarked a few pages that talk through the logistics of disconnecting them and I've taken lots of pictures and videos so I can get them installed correctly.

Am I missing something? Do I need a separate battery tender for each battery, or is this something that I could keep an eye on and rotate as needed to maintain charge over winter?

I'm reasonably handy but confess to being pretty clueless when it comes to battery and electrical systems.

Thanks in advance, I've learned a lot from this forum this year already.

I live in Maine where it is cold and pull my two 6 volt golf cart batteries and leave them in my basement with my boat batteries. I wire the two GC batteries back up to make 12 volts and then on a rotating basis, charge them with a battery tender for a week or so, then move to boat battery 1, then boat battery 2 etc. I get about 5 years out of my boat batteries and am going on 5 years with the camper GC batteries.

I can’t help you with your antenna question as I store my camper inside for the winter😊

[Jim in Halifax]

Assume batteries are fully charged......Remove batteries and take home....DO NOT put them on a concrete floor!!!!!!!!!!!!Put them on a piece of 3/4" wood or a wood floor!!....Once a month put battery on a charge for 24hours.....Remove charge check with a volt meter......12.0 to 12.8 is great......

My recommendation is to leave the roof alone. unless you have to move it in the spring and ice is on there
J

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by Jim in Halifax

Assume batteries are fully charged......Remove batteries and take home....DO NOT put them on a concrete floor!!!!!!!!!!!!Put them on a piece of 3/4" wood or a wood floor!!....Once a month put battery on a charge for 24hours.....Remove charge check with a volt meter......12.0 to 12.8 is great......

My recommendation is to leave the roof alone. unless you have to move it in the spring and ice is on there
J

Jim...Sorry but your advice in RED is an old wives tale from the days of rubber cases 50 years ago. It is COMPLETELY safe to place them on concrete or anywhere. https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/freq...ete-floor.html
ALSO from Trojan:
1. What are some common myths associated with batteries?

• Half of a non-buffered aspirin in each cell and then a fast charge breaks up sulfation and extends battery life- Aspirin forms ascetic acid which attacks the positive grid and active material.
• Storing a battery on concrete will discharge it quicker- Long ago, when battery cases were made out of natural rubber, this was true. Now, however, battery cases are made of polypropylene or other modern materials that allow a battery to be stored anywhere.

[bikendan]

Yep, the concrete floor myth still has life, after all these years.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by mdf257

Thanks. To make sure I'm understanding, if I:

1) make sure the batteries are fully charged, using a voltmeter
2) pull the battery disconnect,
3) consider removing one of the terminals so that radio and LP leak detector don't continue to draw (something I've read about in other threads related to our unit),

I should be able to just let it sit as-is for the winter? That sounds much preferable to disconnecting them and transporting/storing over the winter.

We have a solar panel installed on the roof, and the digital gauge in the unit always shows full, though obviously the pending snow and cover for the unit means we can't just rely on this to keep the batteries in good shape over the winter.

Yes you your questions. Also, in that your are in Michigan, I wouldn't worry too much about the "full" charge. If your digital gauge shows full, you're probably fine. Issue is if your battery has been significantly discharged, especially if close to 50% down.
I always disconnect at least the negative cable on the battery to insure that there are no drains on the battery.
My view is, I would only pull my battery if I was worried about it growing legs while stored... If you do pull it, store it somewhere cold.

[mdf257]

Thanks for all the advice.

For what its worth, I think I'm going to try a combination of Cam's and the below advice -- that is, remove the negative cable and keep it installed, but will check on it after two-three weeks. If voltage is down, then I'll pull it and periodically charge in the detached garage for the rest of the winter.

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

Yes you your questions. Also, in that your are in Michigan, I wouldn't worry too much about the "full" charge. If your digital gauge shows full, you're probably fine. Issue is if your battery has been significantly discharged, especially if close to 50% down.
I always disconnect at least the negative cable on the battery to insure that there are no drains on the battery.
My view is, I would only pull my battery if I was worried about it growing legs while stored... If you do pull it, store it somewhere cold.

[dbledan]

For the cover the tennis balls and pool noodles work wonders on the covers to prevent issues on sharp points.

[JanFMiller]

Interesting thread.

Makes me wonder why the battery cut off is on the battery box outside instead of inside near the power distribution box?? Power feed from the battery runs straight from the battery to the PDB, so easy to put a master cut off switch there AND a point to attach a battery tender as well.

I live in The Frozen North and my plan ( having just purchased a real RV ) was to keep the RV plugged in, which I ASSUME would keep the battery charged. RV converter is 3-stage so battery should be ok on that. Have used battery tenders on my motorcycles for years with good results.

I was wondering about the roof myself, but the decided to head south 1 December, so not an issue.