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Old 02-27-2021, 11:02 PM   #1
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Hitch Sticks on Ball

I have a new Rockwood Mini-Lite 2507S. The first few times that I took it out I had no problem getting it off of my hitch. The last 2 times, however, I have had a very difficult time getting the hitch to come off the ball. I loosen the coupler with no problem but when I raise on the tongue jack it does not lift off of the ball. I end up having to move my tow vehicle a little and jump up and down on the hitch and finally it comes off. Needless to say this is a bit stressful. I use an Equalizer hitch that was installed by the dealer. The trailer and tow vehicle are on level ground. Any ideas on why this may be happening and how to prevent it from re-occurring?
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:08 PM   #2
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Also, I read somewhere that on many couplers the latch system is adjustable. Does anyone know if the coupler on the 2507S is adjustable?
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:15 PM   #3
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You need to pull the ball forward in the coupler. This will allow the latch to release the ball.
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Old 02-28-2021, 12:29 AM   #4
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Sometimes the hitch is adjusted in a way that the ball is angled slightly. Sometimes I must leave the truck in neutral so it moves as the tongue comes up. Not always a good idea but depending on the situation can have the front wheels turned one way or the other.
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:26 PM   #5
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Hitch

Make sure you have lube in the coupler and on the ball. White lithium grease is fine. Make sure you chalk your wheels before unhooking. There is fine point where, as you are living it where it will start to come off. With experience it gets easier. I have the same WDH, when I get to where it is starting to come loose, I push side ways on the WDH.
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:28 PM   #6
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Thanks for the tips. I looked up under the coupler and when I pull the latch back the coupler definitely opens up fully so it must be some type of bind.
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:36 PM   #7
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This problem has followed me on 2 trailers. Ughh

The simple answer (for me ) as mentioned above is to always have the ball slightly forward. With Wheels Chocked of course! I do this when hitching and unhitching.

When unhitching I put a bit of forward tension with the tow vehicle. But be careful. Just a bit! Sometimes I get a surprise when it releases from a higher that normal height. POP!

Good Luck!
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:45 PM   #8
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Lube and then it is a touch issue. I occasionally have to get it at the "Right" level and then take the park brake off while the truck is off and in gear. Trying to take weight off the front of the coupler. A little extra grease helps a lot.
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:54 PM   #9
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When you are having this problem, is it after backing the TT. If so that is because the ball is back up against the back of the ball socket and the fingers on the locking mechanism is catching on it. Simply pull forward to take the back pressure off and you should be OK. If it is sticking after pulling forward then an adjustment may be needed. With the TT unhitched look under the hitch and have someone move the locking lever. This will give you a feel for how it works.
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Old 02-28-2021, 02:41 PM   #10
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On many hitches, lifting the lever does not only drop the forks that grab the underside of the ball. It also allows the fork assembly to slide backwards.

And of course, pushing down on the lever not only raises the forks. A cam on the lever forces the fork assembly forward to better grab the ball from the bottom.

When the trailer is unhitched, play around with the hitch and watch how the assembly moves back-and-forth.

Now, once your trailer has been in the open for a while, all the lubricant washes away, maybe a little rust starts, and the assembly won't slide easily. You need to apply the lubricant of your choice: spray silicone, spray white grease, white grease applied with a small paint brush, wheel bearing grease...it doesn't matter. Even cooking oil works.

Once it is lubricated, work it back and forth until it slides easily.
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:09 PM   #11
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On a couple of occasions I've had to chock the camper wheels and then move the truck a tiny bit forward to get the ball/coupler to not like each other anymore.
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Old 02-28-2021, 10:27 PM   #12
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On a couple of occasions I've had to chock the camper wheels and then move the truck a tiny bit forward to get the ball/coupler to not like each other anymore.
Agreed. I sometimes chock the trailer, and then take off the brake in the tow vehicle and put the tow vehicle in neutral, the truck may move forward a tiny bit and take the pressure off the hitch. I also find it helps a lot to have the TV and TT lined up straight.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:43 AM   #13
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After I chock, do you think it would be best to take off the weight distribution bars and release the coupler latch before putting the tow vehicle in neutral or pulling up a bit?
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:00 AM   #14
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On a couple of occasions I've had to chock the camper wheels and then move the truck a tiny bit forward to get the ball/coupler to not like each other anymore.
Like you and others have said, move the truck forward a tinny bit. My 27' Coachman does the same thing.
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Old 03-01-2021, 11:42 AM   #15
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After I chock, do you think it would be best to take off the weight distribution bars and release the coupler latch before putting the tow vehicle in neutral or pulling up a bit?
Removing the bars and opening the latch will help release tension between the tow vehicle and trailer. That alone might be enough lift the trailer off the ball.
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Old 03-01-2021, 12:10 PM   #16
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One other thing to look at...

About two or three years ago there were a good many reports of this same issue.
Turns out due to a Lippert manufacturing issue, the ball socket on the trailer was not pressed to the proper size and the ball physically would bind in the tongue socket. Several couplers were cut off the frame and replaced. Others reported they just got better over time. (worn)

I'd take just a ball and by hand, see how it fits into your coupler.
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Old 03-01-2021, 07:06 PM   #17
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IMO, if it's dropping on correctly when you hook up, it's simply a matter of pulling forward a couple of inches after you back in. This is a good thing once you get the hang of it, at least you know that sucker isn't coming off on it's own!
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Old 03-02-2021, 08:40 AM   #18
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I never had a problem dropping the ball on. I looked under the hitch to see how it works, and it is the kind where the assembly moves back and forth. It seems to move plenty far back to be completely clear of the ball. Since the latch itself never sticks I assume it is moving back out of the way when the ball in on as well. I am going to be towing my camper this weekend so will try the suggestions and will provide an update on how it goes. Thanks for all of the ideas.
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Old 03-02-2021, 09:22 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Mr. Ed View Post
After I chock, do you think it would be best to take off the weight distribution bars and release the coupler latch before putting the tow vehicle in neutral or pulling up a bit?
I always remove my WDH bars before leveling. Once level is done, I will chock the tires before unhooking from the TV.
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Old 03-02-2021, 12:59 PM   #20
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I never had a problem dropping the ball on. I looked under the hitch to see how it works, and it is the kind where the assembly moves back and forth. It seems to move plenty far back to be completely clear of the ball. Since the latch itself never sticks I assume it is moving back out of the way when the ball in on as well. I am going to be towing my camper this weekend so will try the suggestions and will provide an update on how it goes. Thanks for all of the ideas.

That's great, seem like the ball placing pressure on the hitch is the only thing causing your issue then. Placing the pressure back at the front of the hitch should make it detach easier!
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