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Old 05-13-2021, 06:05 PM   #1
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Hot water anode

I have a 2019 2604WS. The water hearer anode is long and trying to thread it is eluding my skillset. One thought crossing my mind is to shorten it so I can more easily install it. I have to take it out to drain the tank every year so I would just replace it with another shortened one. I guess it would be asking too much to have the Mfg install a drain plug.

Any thoughts or secret failsafe secret techniques? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-13-2021, 06:52 PM   #2
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They are a bit of a pain to get to and install. I put 1 1/16 socket on the rod with a 6” extension, this let’s me get it threaded before using a ratchet to snug it.
This device might work for you

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECD2I...4M3EZ6XMBE5S88
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Old 05-13-2021, 07:03 PM   #3
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I put a paper towel in the socket so that the anode fits tight enough not to wiggle while getting the thread's started.
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Old 05-14-2021, 06:37 AM   #4
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While I have never had to replace a sacrificial anode in any of our units due to deterioration, I have seen some that were substantially degraded in just one season. If you haven't noticed a lot of deterioration on yours, you could probably shorten it a bit to make it easier to install.
That said, a bit of patience and a short socket with a long extension will help to get it in without damaging the threads.
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Old 05-14-2021, 07:57 AM   #5
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I just replaced mine a couple days ago. Only after one season of use, I was surprised to find mine pretty well deteriorated.

Mine also uses the 9 inch anode rod, but wasn't too bad to thread it in there as long as you thread it with plumbers tape first. That seemed to help hold it in place so i could at least start to thread it in.

I found the best way to get it threaded the rest of the way in was with a basin wrench, like the one below.

https://www.amazon.com/HAUTMEC-PL002...%2C202&sr=8-31
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Old 05-14-2021, 08:01 AM   #6
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Best way is to tilt it upward when threading it in to counter the weight. Also remember that it has tapered threads. So only tighten it enough to keep water from leaking out.
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Old 05-14-2021, 09:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedicmark View Post
I put a paper towel in the socket so that the anode fits tight enough not to wiggle while getting the thread's started.
I do basically the same as this, but I use electrical tape around the flats to take up the slack between the nut and socket.
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Old 05-14-2021, 09:57 AM   #8
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I grasp the hex end nut with my fingers and just screw mine in.
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Old 05-14-2021, 10:36 AM   #9
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use a cresent wrench / old type adjustable wrench , verticle , it will give you a little leverage to hold up length of rod.
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:09 PM   #10
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FWIW The “slack” in the thread is there by design. These threads are tapered on both bolt and socket.
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:33 PM   #11
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For those without years of experience installing bolts or threaded plugs/couplers, it sometimes can be frustrating.

Like Mr. Dan, I don't have issues holding the plug end and getting it threaded but for those with little experience, the suggestion of putting the anode in a socket with paper or tape is probably going to work as well as anything for the OP.

Crescent wrenches and basin tools might be OK for those folks with the knowledge but for someone struggling to get in behind the burner tube anyway, the socket with something in it to hold the plug end is likely best.

Just my 2¢ that you paid nothing for.
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