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Old 05-09-2018, 11:35 AM   #1
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How to mod fridge venting

I have poor venting on my fridge, I see that they placed a baffle to force the air over the condenser but leaves very little opening for the air to escape out of the plastic cover. I added another fan to the existing fan but when temps rise into the 80's the fans never shut off. I remove the cover and that helps and I also have removed the top baffle and that helps even more, but it is idiotic to have to do that when camping and looks hideous. Was thinking of adding a couple small fans to the plastic outside cover itself, but there is so little room. Also there is a cabinet above the fridge inside, almost inclined to make a door in which the fridge can vent into the cabinet/camper.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:03 PM   #2
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Refrigerator Ventilation for Slide Units

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...its-48909.html

Here is a post I submitted with multiple pictures, hope this helps. Also, there is a link with diagrams and information about ventilation and removing dead air space.
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:06 PM   #3
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Do not vent into the camper! When the fridge is run on propane you could get gasses in the camper. These units are supposed to be sealed from the interior living space. As far as better air flow on the condenser I had a unit in my previous camper configured the same as your's. I put two fans on the inside of the vent cover blowing out and it worked very well. Sorry I have no pictures and no longer have that unit. By the way I wired the power to the fans thru the thermal switch on the condenser so they only ran when needed.
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:11 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by zexel View Post
Do not vent into the camper! When the fridge is run on propane you could get gasses in the camper. These units are supposed to be sealed from the interior living space. As far as better air flow on the condenser I had a unit in my previous camper configured the same as your's. I put two fans on the inside of the vent cover blowing out and it worked very well. Sorry I have no pictures and no longer have that unit. By the way I wired the power to the fans thru the thermal switch on the condenser so they only ran when needed.
Good point, didn't think about the issue when on propane!
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by sonic2 View Post
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...its-48909.html

Here is a post I submitted with multiple pictures, hope this helps. Also, there is a link with diagrams and information about ventilation and removing dead air space.
I like the idea of the fans behind the condenser, were you able to install the fans from that access panel and removing the baffles? It looks like you had more room between condenser and the top then I do.

My fridge is not on a slide, wish they just roof vented it..oh wait that might cost 3 cents more Grrrr
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:03 PM   #6
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I added two computer case fans to my fridge cabinet just below the top vent opening. I did this mainly to rid myself of the racket that the original equipment fan made when it ran. It was very annoying to me. I also dropped the luan piece of wood out of the vent opening because I felt it was a poor design that limited air flow. The computer case fans that I put in there are super quiet (can not hear them run inside my Cedar Creek) and move a tremendous amount of air. I have one fan wired to the factory thermistor on the cooling coil and the other fan on a manual switch that I have never had to use. Even in Arizona heat.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:11 PM   #7
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Where did you get the power for the cooling fans? I see that many of the fans are USB so I suspect you are getting 12v and adapting to USB.
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Old 05-09-2018, 03:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by nicholsm4 View Post
Where did you get the power for the cooling fans? I see that many of the fans are USB so I suspect you are getting 12v and adapting to USB.
I used two old fans from computer cases. Just cut the wires, spliced them and ran them through a Micro switch I mounted in the wall beside the reefer and a 12 volt supply line to the control board,
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Old 05-09-2018, 04:08 PM   #9
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Where did you get the power for the cooling fans? I see that many of the fans are USB so I suspect you are getting 12v and adapting to USB.
If you have a Dometic 2652, there's probably a white connector like I've circled in the pic below. The red wire is +12VDC, the white wire is -12VDC.

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I've installed two fans. The red/green wires going to the right go to two switches I mounted under my bathroom sink that allow me to turn them on/off without having to open the outside grill for the fridge. The red/black wires going through the black connectors go to the actual fans.

My fans are 3 speeds; that black wire hanging down with the small black box on the end, just to the right of the red arrow, has a small switch in it for changing the fan speed. 7 bucks a pop. I do have open the grille to get to the speed switches, although I could probably just let them hang out of one of the holes, like the drain hose does! I had hoped I could extend the wiring, but it's just too darned small to mess with.

https://www.coolerguys.com/search?q=...3+speed+switch
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:29 PM   #10
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Do the fans run 24/7 when you are camping?

If no how are they switched on & off?
J
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jim in Halifax View Post
Do the fans run 24/7 when you are camping?

If no how are they switched on & off?
J
Some people wire them with switches as I did. You turn them on and off yourself. Others wire them into thermal switches so they turn on and off with temperature behind the fridge. Others just wire them to run all the time. It's up to you.
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zexel View Post
Do not vent into the camper! When the fridge is run on propane you could get gasses in the camper. These units are supposed to be sealed from the interior living space. As far as better air flow on the condenser I had a unit in my previous camper configured the same as your's. I put two fans on the inside of the vent cover blowing out and it worked very well. Sorry I have no pictures and no longer have that unit. By the way I wired the power to the fans thru the thermal switch on the condenser so they only ran when needed.
Not to take the thread in a different direction but I have not been in a unit where the back of the fridge is sealed air tight from the interior. There is a cabinet built around the fridge but it is not air tight. Back in the day, as my kids like to say, we used to have natural gas fridges in our homes. Also most campers have ovens with pilot lights and burners. Just make sure your gas detector is functioning.
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Halifax View Post
Do the fans run 24/7 when you are camping?

If no how are they switched on & off?
J

Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
I used two old fans from computer cases. Just cut the wires, spliced them and ran them through a Micro switch I mounted in the wall beside the reefer and a 12 volt supply line to the control board,
This is post #8 The micro switch is used to turn them on and off. If it is hot outside I ran them, if not, I didn't. The reefer in my current camper does not need them, it works well without them
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:38 AM   #14
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I've got a Georgetown, but it seems that "fridge problems" are universal..
From day 1 we've had our unit back due to overheating issues. In a nutshell they were finally solved, over the course of 3 years by the following "adjustments"
1) added two fans inside the fridge on the cooling fins.
2) added 2 D cell powered fans on lower shelves inside.
3) added 2 "optional" fans on the back of the fridge to direct more air over the condenser.
4) AND most important, I think, removed a piece of plywood covering the condensor. (It literally blocked any airflow to the condenser from the rear fans!!)
Works great now!! No more issues the last 3 times out!!!
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by steelhorzz View Post
i've got a georgetown, but it seems that "fridge problems" are universal..
From day 1 we've had our unit back due to overheating issues. In a nutshell they were finally solved, over the course of 3 years by the following "adjustments"
1) added two fans inside the fridge on the cooling fins.
2) added 2 d cell powered fans on lower shelves inside.
3) added 2 "optional" fans on the back of the fridge to direct more air over the condenser.
4) and most important, i think, removed a piece of plywood covering the condensor. (it literally blocked any airflow to the condenser from the rear fans!!)
works great now!! No more issues the last 3 times out!!!
congratulations!!
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:07 PM   #16
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I looked over the fridge, the condenser coils are right against the back of the fridge so there is no room for any additional fans there. I am going to order a extra outside vent cover and see if I can modify it such I can incorporate a couple fans into it with a way not to allow rain/water in.
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:27 PM   #17
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Hi Kamper,

Look at the bottom of the compartment and see if a fan will fit there. Pushing a column of air up past the cooling fins is just as effective as pulling it up.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:59 AM   #18
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Hi Kamper,

Look at the bottom of the compartment and see if a fan will fit there. Pushing a column of air up past the cooling fins is just as effective as pulling it up.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips

I could mount a fan at the bottom, but there are already 2 fans just below the top opening, my goal is to try to get the heat out of the top.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:15 AM   #19
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I could mount a fan at the bottom, but there are already 2 fans just below the top opening, my goal is to try to get the heat out of the top.
What "Rich P" told you is true. and what you said is also true.

But it DOES NOT matter whether you push or pull X number of Cu Ft of air. If it goes in the bottom, it MUST go out the top. It you push it out the top, it MUST be pulled in at the bottom.

With the compartment open at both top and bottom it will not pressurize, nor will it pull a vacuum.

AIRFLOW, however achieved, is your need and your goal.
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:28 AM   #20
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For those that used USB fans, how did you get 5Dc for the USB connection vs available 12Vdc to power your refr fans?
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