Installing a battery monitor in a 2509s

[Snowbum007]

Hi everyone. I purchased an inexpensive battery monitor as part of our move to add solar power. I’m trying to decide where to install the monitor and am curious if anyone else has tackled this? I’ve done a few searches but have not found much on installation. I’m thinking of installing the shunt with the batteries and running the cable along the frame, up into the pass through storage, and mounting it by the charging station. I’m curious if anyone else has done this and the best way to run the cable up into the storage area? I’m also open to other locations that would be more simple to install.

[Snowbum007]

No one has any suggestions?

[Camp4two]

I have a 2511S and thought about putting a battery monitor in my pass thru storage.

Decided not to do it. My battery is monitored by my idiot lights on the rocker panel, solar charger controller, inverter and my multimeter when needed.

[GoneSouth10]

I have the Victron BMV-712, so the "monitor" is on my phone (via Bluetooth). The physical monitor, which I have not looked at since the install, just sits in a zip lock bag tucked away in the power compartment with a 1 foot cable. Nothing to wire up through the coach.
On the shunt issue, yes, as a practical matter, that would need to be right next to your batteries as it need to be the first (and only) thing connected to the negative terminal of the battery bank.

[01tundra]

I originally mounted my Victron shunt on the pass thru floor next to the water heater and mounted the gauge next to the receptacle at the side of the bed.

I've since moved it all the the rear of the trailer to accommodate my relocated battery.

[jefrec27]

Here's one person who mounted it where the original factory battery & tank sensor monitors are by one of the doors to the trailer. https://youtu.be/TMKN4PF3DPo

[01tundra]

By the way, the shunt needs to be placed somewhere where it will not get wet.

[TitanMike]

If I were to go back in time I would have just mounted the monitor in my battery compartment and use only the bluetooth function on my phone. The only time the monitor itself is needed is for setting some of the 60+ parameters that are usually just left at the default settings. The important ones can be set using the phone app.

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If I were to go back in time I would have just mounted the monitor in my battery compartment and use only the bluetooth function on my phone. The only time the monitor itself is needed is for setting some of the 60+ parameters that are usually just left at the default settings. The important ones can be set using the phone app.

True, I've only used the actual gauge once and that was to reset the history when I changed to LiFePO4.

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If I were to go back in time I would have just mounted the monitor in my battery compartment and use only the bluetooth function on my phone. The only time the monitor itself is needed is for setting some of the 60+ parameters that are usually just left at the default settings. The important ones can be set using the phone app.

2X ^^^^
But the OP described his battery monitor as "an inexpensive" monitor, so it may not have the Bluetooth capabilities. Not sure where the "inexpensive" cutoff point is for that feature . . .

[dbledan]

I just installed mine 2 wks ago. The shunt is in the battery box. I ran the cable to the side.

I found a hole in the front cap using a coat hanger to chase the wiring down for the marker light and power jack inside the storage compartment. I then ran it up next to the bed inside the drawer. I then used spray foam to seal the hole and the same one on the other side of the trailer.

I tried to mount it on the wall but my only option was an outside wall which is really thin finish wood with solid styrofoam insulation which has no way to run the wire so I left it in the drawer and use my phone.

One question for thos who installed. Did you place the positive before or after the battery cutoff? How much current does it really draw? After a week mine says none but does it report itself?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by dbledan

One question for thos who installed. Did you place the positive before or after the battery cutoff? How much current does it really draw? After a week mine says none but does it report itself?

I connected the positive to the battery post as it's also a temp monitor. I got the temp sensor monitor for my old lead acid batteries and the new LiFePo's don't need temp compensation. Since I had it I just went ahead and used it It does tell me how warm or cold the batteries are though.

IIRC the "draw" for a Victron BMV is around 25 ma or 0.025 amp. Not all that much so I doubt it makes much difference if the positive is connected before or after the shutoff. Kind of a "Dealer's Choice".

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If I were to go back in time I would have just mounted the monitor in my battery compartment and use only the bluetooth function on my phone. The only time the monitor itself is needed is for setting some of the 60+ parameters that are usually just left at the default settings. The important ones can be set using the phone app.

FWIW, I've been exploring a little more with my BMV-712. One aspect of using/locating the actual monitor (the little hockey puck sized monitor from Victron) is that is where the configurable relay contact is located. So if you have a need to utilize that relay feature (e.g., an AGS, a battery heater, etc.), you'd need to run the switched wire from the back of the Victron monitor to whatever you're controlling with that relay. I think most of the applications of that relay can be achieved elsewhere, but if you really wanted to dial in your battery system, it's there! Otherwise, you can do everything you need to do through the Bluetooth app . . .

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I got the temp sensor monitor for my old lead acid batteries and the new LiFePo's don't need temp compensation. Since I had it I just went ahead and used it It does tell me how warm or cold the batteries are though.

I did the same, still nice to know what the temperature is in the battery cabinet.

[Snowbum007]

Thanks everyone for the discussion. I have the less expensive model or I would have done as another suggested and wired everything into the battery box and forgot about it. I’m still tempted but will wait for now. This is my first round with solar and I thought I would learn without much of an entry fee. I also have a portable solar panel to go along with the batteries and meter. Hopefully I’ll get to try it out this summer.

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by Snowbum007

. . . This is my first round with solar and I thought I would learn without much of an entry fee. I also have a portable solar panel to go along with the batteries and meter. . . .

Yup, I'm travelling this same path! I splurged a bit on the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, but it's been worth every penny! I knew I wanted to eventually move towards a full blown solar set up, I figured the battery monitor was the cheapest part of that full blown system. I purchased an inexpensive (relatively speaking) portable flexible panel set up that came with a cheapo PWM solar controller just to dip my toe in the solar pool. I figured I can also use them as an auxiliary solar panel once my full blown system is in. I had debated biting the bullet on an MPPT controller (sufficient for the full blown system), but decided to just utilize the cheapo controller that came with my panel set - so far so good, but I haven't really taxed the system yet . . .

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by GoneSouth10

Yup, I'm travelling this same path! I splurged a bit on the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, but it's been worth every penny! I knew I wanted to eventually move towards a full blown solar set up, I figured the battery monitor was the cheapest part of that full blown system. I purchased an inexpensive (relatively speaking) portable flexible panel set up that came with a cheapo PWM solar controller just to dip my toe in the solar pool. I figured I can also use them as an auxiliary solar panel once my full blown system is in. I had debated biting the bullet on an MPPT controller (sufficient for the full blown system), but decided to just utilize the cheapo controller that came with my panel set - so far so good, but I haven't really taxed the system yet . . .

I added a Victron Smart MPPT Solar Controller to my "system" although it was just a pair of 80 Watt panels in a suitcase setup. I wired panels in series for a total voltage output of 43 volts max (measured) to the controller.

The higher voltage from the panels helps overcome any voltage drop from the cord connecting panels to TT where controller is mounted and since the controller is from the Victron family it connects to the BMV to share voltage sensing AT THE BATTERY.

Even though I only have a max output of 160 watts this small setup does a great job of keeping my Battleborn's charged on even just reasonably sunny days.

Great part about the Battery Monitor is that there's no more guessing or having to rely on the LED "Christmas Tree" monitor. Also, if having to run a generator, no more running it for more time than necessary. You can actually stop when the monitor says 100% rather than running it for hours more "just to make sure". (Assuming of course you have set the monitor parameters correctly).

[GoneSouth10]

I had spec'd out a full blown system with the Victron MPPT controller (with enough capacity to size my system all the way up to what I wanted and then some) and the debate was whether to plunk down the sizable cash for that unit or just "dip the toe" with the PWM controller that was included with my portable panel kit. It's an el cheapo unit (I think about $25 bucks if bought separately), so I wouldn't be out much once I decided to put in the full system (and threw the PWM in the "spare parts" tote). Basically, I wanted to get some real world solar experience first to validate the full blown system I had spec'd out. Also, the portable panel I got (300W Dokio system: https://www.amazon.com/DOKIO-Monocry...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== which has been awesome, BTW), has basically been used as a glorified battery tender so far.
And 2X on the BMV-712!! I did go that route (bought my "second monitor" first!) and absolutely love it. Like playing chess compared to playing checkers with the 4 LED system . . .

[Snowbum007]

Funny. I bought the Dokio 220w portable solar kit. I thought I’d see how it does with my two 12v 105ah batteries that came with the trailer. I wanted the 300w kit but it was out of stock. Form here I figured I’d slowly build out a system that meets our needs boondocking. I think a better MPPT controller will be next followed by better batteries. I’m not in a hurry and will wait for my current batteries to crap out before I look for new ones.

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by Snowbum007

Funny. I bought the Dokio 220w portable solar kit. I thought I’d see how it does with my two 12v 105ah batteries that came with the trailer. I wanted the 300w kit but it was out of stock. Form here I figured I’d slowly build out a system that meets our needs boondocking. I think a better MPPT controller will be next followed by better batteries. I’m not in a hurry and will wait for my current batteries to crap out before I look for new ones.

Ha - then you know exactly what I mean about the "el cheapo" PWM controller!!
With your setup (and the amount of amps you have to pump back into your system each day), I'd think the 220w and the PWM controller will do fine until you upgrade your battery capacity.
BTW, did you ever figure out the 220w/200w discrepancy? (In my case the 330w/300w discrepancy) - Amazon said one thing, the box said another, the product description said another, and the manual said yet another - still not sure if I have 330w or 300w!!