Lithium Batteries on a Geo or E Pro

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Malacarne

I have a 2018 19FBS. It came with a 100 watt solar panel and I had two 6 volt GC2 batteries installed. I watched youtube videos of others who upgraded to Lithium. But moving the batteries from the tongue and getting an entirely different controller seemed not to be worth it. I already had 225 amp hours of lead acid batteries and 300 watts of solar panels on the roof and the victron battery monitor.



Then, recently I noticed that Battleborn had a GC2 form factor 100ah lithium battery. I was also able to buy the direct drop in replacements for the solar controller and the converter that supported lithium. Simple upgrade now. So I almost doubled my usable battery capacity and took 70 pounds off the tongue.



All in all, it’s great! Pretty pricy with the heated batteries. I justify the upgrade by noting that my existing batteries are past their half-life anyway (this is the 4th season).

Was puzzled at first on how you doubled capacity until I looked up the specs on these "GC-2 form factor" batteries. Nice that they're 12v and aren't exactly BCI GC-2's.

Hope nobody sees "GC-2" and just hooks them in series like a regular golf cart battery.

[gracieky]

I replaced my two Interstate led acid batteries with on 120 amp hour Lynx LiFePO4 battery ($600). The best thing for me about Lithium batteries is having the bluetooth BMS so you can monitor the use and charging.

My 2021 Geo Pro came with a 190 watt solar panel and the installed solar charge controller is Lithium compatible and will charge it to about 14.3 volts. The onboard battery charge convertor only charges to 13.3 volts. They work fine together and as others have said, the solar will top-off the battery to full capacity. But note that LiFePO4 batteries show 100% of charge anywhere from 13.6 to 14.6 volts. I just returned from a week long trip and my battery never dropped below 75%, even when off the grid. As long as the sun shines your good. What I have found is that the furnace blower will use the most power. The 12 volt fridge sips it at only a few amps and the exhaust fan uses very little also.

By replacing the 2 led acid batteries that came with the trailer I reduced my tongue weight from 100 lbs. to 30 lbs!.

[Sid_the_Cat]

Great feedback. Thank you!!!

[NinjaActionJeans]

I have a 2021 RW 2892RB with the 190 watt panel and Inverter option.

I installed two 120AH lithium batteries and a Victron battery monitor. I've only had the setup about a month now but I have many observations:

I am only getting sun for about 2/3 the day and it doesn't seem to be enough solar to keep my batteries charged.
It definitely helps and after a converter charge cycle i've seen solar charge them up to about 14Volts or about 85% charge, but never 100%.
The non lithium compatible converter in the trailer also doesn't help and lets my batteries drain all the way down to 13.0 volts before initiating a charge cycle.
Based on my testing and the victron, 13.0 volts is only about 40% battery remaining.
When arriving at my trailer on the weekends I find my batteries in a state of anywhere from this 40% to 85% number. Not Good If I was planning to go dry camping.
I think the whole cycle takes about 2 weeks lol but the batteries do eventually drain down to the point where the converter kicks in and charges the batteries(Very slowly I might say) up to 13.6V. Can take 2 days to complete the charge to 13.6 V from the converter.

I think a lithium compatible converter would help a lot and keep my batteries close to 100% all the time.
I've got another 200watt panel on the way but I don't think it will be enough, especially since i'm in the shade from about 3pm on.

I estimate I would need 3 or 4 200 watt panels to keep it charged all the time.

By the way I do have the 11cuft 12V only magic chef fridge and it does use the battery a lot. Especially if you load it up with warm beer and food. It will draw 10-15 amps for hours before slowing downs but the fridge itself works really well. Beer gets really cold and ice cream is hard only a few hours later from loading it up.

Thats all for now.

[Canuckdownsouth]

Hi all, I was going to create a new thread for my question(s), but this group of people seems closest aligned to the issues I'm facing. I'm a solo female traveler and know enough to get myself in trouble, but not enough to install things myself. I learn mostly from YouTube videos.

I had the 2018 Geo pro 19 fbs, 1 120 watt solar suitcase, two acid 80ah batteries (and I knew that only gave me 80 ah total). Two-way fridge. Back then, I could go off grid as long as I wanted until the water ran out. I always had enough sun, and used very little electricity. Batteries also recharged when driving to next site.

Fast forward and now I have the 2022 19 fbs. Videos and promotions are hyping the 12 volt fridge and 190 watt solar package. I initially thought what a great upgrade, more solar I'll be able to go off grid longer. I did some test runs in my driveway, boy was I wrong. I now have one 100ah lithium renogy battery. So you would think a slight improvement over what I had before.

With using the lights for just a couple hours, then keeping the fridge on overnight, by morning the battery had shut itself down. So I quickly learned this fridge is a dud for boondockers that would prefer to run it off propane. I've accepted that.

Knowing I can't do some of the updates to the converters and solar controllers and wire gauge that you all talk about myself, I bit the bullet and just bought a 1000 watt jackery. I'm kind of bummed at Forest River for putting me in this position. But I do have a couple of questions if I want to juice up this lithium battery or add another one or more panels:.

Let me be clear, I wasn't itching to go to lithium, but I have a big tongue weight problem and can't get more juice otherwise.

Here's my questions:
1) I think already answered, but it doesn't seem like I need to switch out the converter because others have noted the solar will top up with the non lithium compatible converter. Correct?
2) the battery has a bms, but I'm learning about lithium that it hates charging below freezing. Do I need to worry about that or will the BMs take care of it?
3) on the old Geo pro, I drove long distances between boondock sites and that always did the job of retopping the batteries. This is the one question I can't get a good answer to. I'm told by my solar guy locally that I need a DC to DC charge controller installed. I know that the wiring on my pre-installed seven pin to my Jeep Grand Cherokee won't do a great charge to the lithium. I'm okay with that. But is there truth to him saying that the lithium will kill my alternator by trying to draw a lot of power from it? I'm also researching on the internet that the wiring on the 7 pin is way too small for that. Again, since I can't do that install myself, I'm not sure I want to go through the hassle.

4) when I plug my jackery into the trailer to use it as a power source, I don't want it to try to charge the lithium battery. If I use the battery disconnect switch, will it stop that attempted flow?

Hope this wasn't too long a post and looking forward to some comments. I can't believe that stupid fridge is now costing me already about 2,000 Canadian dollars in upgrades just to run it.

[Casademike]

I’m sure you thought of this. But did you set your solar charge controller to LIFPo? That should get you to 100%. Provided you have enough sun of course.

[Canuckdownsouth]

Yes that part I figured out, thanks! Need some help with some of the other more complicated stuff

[gracieky]

I have a 2021 20FBS. I have the 190 watt solar panel and added a 120 Ah lithium that replaced the led acid it came with. From experience I can say that my 12 volt fridge (12 volt only, not duel) uses very little power from my battery when left overnight, no more than 15-20% total is used. After a day of sun it's back up to 100%. I park my trailer in my driveway and leave the fridge on all the time not connected to shore power, run the lights, the slide, open the awning, a 5v fan, etc and never go below 70%. And again, after full sun the next day it's back up full.

What I do know is the 1000 watt inverter that came with the trailer is a HOG for power? I only use about 100-150 watts of AC when it's on, but if I leave it on over night it will use up at least half or more of the battery if the other 12 volt stuff is running like the fridge is also still on.

I like having the inverter available but I am trying to move as much of my power needs to 12 volts and stay away from running it. Plus I am now working on adding another 300 Ah to my battery bank.

BTW. A good quality lithium battery will have a low temp shut off so it won't take a charge below freezing. Make SURE it does, and if your not sure test it!

[Canuckdownsouth]

Thanks. The inverter was definitely off. I know intuitively that the fridge should not have drawn that battery down as much as it did. My research says it draws about 5 amps an hour. Maybe there's something wrong with the connections. Anyone have any thoughts on the DC to DC controller when pulling with the car?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Canuckdownsouth

. Anyone have any thoughts on the DC to DC controller when pulling with the car?

A DC-DC "Charger" is a great device to accomplish a couple tasks while towing a trailer.

First, it will boost the lower voltage from Alternator to the higher voltage needed to fully charge and cell balance a LiFePo4 battery

It will also function as an Isolator so the LiFePo4 batteries don't drain back into the Lead Acid starting battery when engine is not running.

It will also provide more current to the LiFePo4 battery while charging from the tow vehicle's alternator, provided the charging wire is of sufficient size to carry the current. On most vehicles this is not the case but is simply remedied by running a separate wire (ideally a pair, one Positive and one Negative) directly from the starting battery to the DC-DC Charger from the starting battery terminals (with fuse of course). A pair of Anderson Connectors in this wire pair near the hitch allows for easy separation of this wire when trailer is disconnected.

I have a Renogy DCC 1212-20 unit that provides 20 amps from my alternator. They come in larger sizes but the recommended size will depend on the tow vehicle's alternator size.

The Renogy DCC 1212-20, 20 amp Charger, sells for around $100 and I've been using one for three years now with ZERO problems. A lot less expensive than many others on the market.

[W5CRE]

Originally Posted by AtlasGeoPro

It's 100ah. The same as the Renogy. The solar suitcase I purchased is the 200W from Renogy. As far as solar on the side, I haven't been able to get that to work. The wiring is there but it doesn't appear to be connected. For now, I've been connecting straight to the battery. At some point I'll take it in to have someone check it out and set it up.

First you need an external charge controller. Some portable solar panels come with one and some don't. Second you need to reverse the polarity on the Zamp connector on your RV. Then you've got it.

https://www.amazon.com/OUOU-Adapter-...Z%2CB088KQ61C7

[W5CRE]

I would expect your Power Center to be a WF-8735P and the converter does not have a charging mode for Lithium. You can easily change this out for a WF-8735LiS Power Center https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8735lis/ . It is an easy change out but you can't just change the converter out. The 35amp WFCO Power Center in 30amp campers has an integral converter. The higher amperage units do have a changeable converter. You could also change the Power Center out for one from Progressive Dynamics https://www.etrailer.com/p-PD4135K.html

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by W5CRE

First you need an external charge controller. Some portable solar panels come with one and some don't. Second you need to reverse the polarity on the Zamp connector on your RV. Then you've got it.



https://www.amazon.com/OUOU-Adapter-...Z%2CB088KQ61C7

The Renogy 200w Solar Suitcase should already have a 20a Controller included. Usually mounted on back of one panel with both panels connected in parallel to its input.

If not working when connected to side solar port check polarity first on port and panel's output. If no power on side port look for an inline fuse between port and battery.

If polarity is reversed, and OUTPUT terminals on controller are accessible, merely reversing the wires will save the trouble and expense of purchasing a polarity reversing adapter.

Some red tape, nail polish, or red paint on the wire now connected to + output terminal and black tape on wire connected to - terminal will help keep track for future reference.

[Tyler-98-W68]

I use a 100ah battery on my 19BH, works great with the 380w rooftop solar, AND the factory converter does actually charge the batteries

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...es-240825.html

As for charging from the tow vehicle depending on your model (I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee with factory tow package and 220a alternator)

I can get up to 23amps charging through the 7 pin harness, basically you can run any type of load up to 23 amps in the trailer while hooked up and the vehicle will maintain the state of charge.

If I was to get a DC/DC charger i'd probably get a 60amp one.

[W5CRE]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

The Renogy 200w Solar Suitcase should already have a 20a Controller included. Usually mounted on back of one panel with both panels connected in parallel to its input.

If not working when connected to side solar port check polarity first on port and panel's output. If no power on side port look for an inline fuse between port and battery.

If polarity is reversed, and OUTPUT terminals on controller are accessible, merely reversing the wires will save the trouble and expense of purchasing a polarity reversing adapter.

Some red tape, nail polish, or red paint on the wire now connected to + output terminal and black tape on wire connected to - terminal will help keep track for future reference.

All true Mike. But the Adapter is only $12.

[NJKris]

I did the wire swap at controller, money in my pocket and one less doodad floating round you don't need. Screwdriver and 60 seconds of effort. I can't help it, I'm the king of saving money! I actually bought my new RV with pocket change I saved. Just kidding, it wasn't from my pocket.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by W5CRE

All true Mike. But the Adapter is only $12.

Can't argue that but a wire swap is free and no chance the adapter might get lost later.


Sorry Kris, should have read your post first

[Leotus]

I have a new Geo Pro 20BHS ordered (placed order late August 2021) I ordered it with an extra solar panel and I am wondering if the charge controller will be Lithium compatible. I was told delivery will be 6 months out when I placed my order. Just wondering if anyone has taken possession of a new Geo Pro and if they are incorporating the newer Go Power charge controllers that are lithium compatible (actual setting on the display for lithium). Thanks-

-Leo

[NJKris]

The old 30 amp Go Power controller already was capable of LiFePO4 charging. It is in the manual for the controller.

Absorption Voltage
(LiFePO4)
14.4V
30min / day

[NJKris]

Here is the cut and paste from the older (discontinued) manual:

GP-PWM-30-UL
____________________________________________________________________________ _____
16
© 2018GoPower!

8.0Operating Instructions
8.1Power Up
Whenthe GP-PWM-30-ULis connected
to the battery, the controller will go into
Power Up mode.

Icons Displayed: All segments of the
numerical display; Backlight blinks

Depending on the battery voltage when
the GP-PWM-30-ULPower Up occurs, the controller may do a Boost
Charge or quickly go into Float Charge. The Charging Profile selected
will commence the following day after a Power Up (refer to the Charging
Profile Chart on page 17-18for more details).

8.2Setting the Battery Type and Charging Profile

Setting Battery 1
To set the battery type for
Battery 1, hold the B
Buttonfor 3 seconds.
When the display shows a
blinking number 1,
release the B Button.


Next, select the charging
profile of Battery 1 by
pressing the B Buttonto
toggle through the profile
options: Sealed/Gel,
AGM,Flooded,orblank
which representsLFP.
To confirm the battery
profile, press and hold the
A Buttonfor 3 seconds


It says that LiFePO4 batteries must have a BMS (battery management system) to work with this controller.