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Old 03-08-2017, 03:16 PM   #1
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Mini Lite 2509s - dry camping and 12v power outlets

My 2509s is on order and I'm deep into researching the ins and outs of dry camping (which we primarily plan to do). So as this is my first camper, power consumption is first on my mind. How much battery power do I need? Inverter a good option? Generator?

I'm starting with what we feel is the minimum power requirements for a week unplugged. At very least, in addition to the built in 12v equipment, we'll want to keep our two phones charged as well as one laptop. That may be it for now. No plans to use air conditioner, tv, microwave. So two questions: What sort of battery option would be best amp/hours wise for 6 days or so? Assuming no solar and minimal or no generator.

Also, how many 12v outlets are there in the 2509s and where the heck are they? I don't remember seeing them when we looked at the trailer!

Thanks so much for helping out a newbie

Bill Cat
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Old 03-08-2017, 03:36 PM   #2
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We primarily dry camp in our Rockwood Roo, so this is how we roll:

Honda 2000i
15 gallon blue tote tank for gray water
400w inverter to run the tv and dvd and recharge electronic devices
Dual deep cycle batteries, with battery disconnect switch
6 gallon FW jug to shuttle water
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Old 03-09-2017, 12:07 AM   #3
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Your fridge may have a door heater to reduce condensation. If you are going to do a lot of dry camping, you may want to disable it. See Post #4
here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ge-128166.html
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:24 AM   #4
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12 volt outlet

Thanks for your insights! For other 2509s owners on this forum, where are the 12 volt (cig lighter) outlets in the trailer? I never saw them. Anybody use these outlets to charge your phones?

Thanks!
Bill Cat
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:55 AM   #5
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We only had 1 cigar outlet in our unit,went to Radio Shack and bought more,they only require a round hole and a little wire to install! If you stay at a "Holiday Inn Express" anyone can install them! Youroo!!
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Old 03-09-2017, 03:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Your fridge may have a door heater to reduce condensation. If you are going to do a lot of dry camping, you may want to disable it. See Post #4
here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ge-128166.html
Following rockfordroo's comment, the door frame heater is supplied from the terminal on the control board that powers the refrigerator light. The heater wire comes from the light, not directly from the control board. I pried off the drive rivets that hold the light in place and disconnected the wire going from the light to the heater. Just push the drive rivet pins back to reinstall them.

If you can get by without the light, you can simply disconnect the door light wire at the control board.

Turn the 12 volt power off before you do this just in case you ground a wire so you don't blow a fuse. Unplug the 120 volt shore line, too, so the convertor isn't supplying 12 volts to the refrigerator.
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Old 06-07-2017, 06:22 PM   #7
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2509s 12V outlets

We have a new 2018 RW 2509s and just got back from the maiden voyage. The only cigarette lighter is on the door side cabinet to the side of the couch. It has one outlet and 2 USB charger outlets. You can buy a cigarette lighter splitter on EBay for under $15 if you need more outlets.

I am looking to wire in an inverter to run the TV off 12V and leave everything on gas. I also have a 160 watt solar panel and charge controller that I am using with the ZAMP outlet on the front. You do not need their panel/controller/cord if you carefully observe the polarity on the ZAMP outlet (it is backwards).

Good luck.
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:50 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by UT_Grandpa View Post
I am looking to wire in an inverter to run the TV off 12V and leave everything on gas. I also have a 160 watt solar panel and charge controller that I am using with the ZAMP outlet on the front. You do not need their panel/controller/cord if you carefully observe the polarity on the ZAMP outlet (it is backwards).

Good luck.
Did you complete your installation of the inverter? If yes, can you tell me where you mounted and how you ran the wires from the battery to the inverter?
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Old 08-08-2017, 05:25 PM   #9
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How I wired an inverter to the TV

I took the microwave oven out of it's cabinet and in the hole were the TV coax cables and a 12 Gauge house battery cable that is powering the preamplifier on the rooftop TV antenna. I spliced into that wire and ran it to a 12V lighter socket (marine grade) that is hanging outside the cabinet using the same hole as the coax cable to the TV.

Put microwave back into it's cabinet. When I want to use the TV on battery I unplug it from the 110 VAC outlet and plug it into an inverter (150 Watt) that is plugged into the outlet I installed.

Pretty simple and let's me choose what form of AC power I want to use for the TV.
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Old 08-12-2017, 09:17 PM   #10
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This is good info.
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UT_Grandpa View Post
I took the microwave oven out of it's cabinet and in the hole were the TV coax cables and a 12 Gauge house battery cable that is powering the preamplifier on the rooftop TV antenna. I spliced into that wire and ran it to a 12V lighter socket (marine grade) that is hanging outside the cabinet using the same hole as the coax cable to the TV.

Put microwave back into it's cabinet. When I want to use the TV on battery I unplug it from the 110 VAC outlet and plug it into an inverter (150 Watt) that is plugged into the outlet I installed.

Pretty simple and let's me choose what form of AC power I want to use for the TV.


I know this is an old post, but still valuable. I just did this same mod to install an inverter in my 21DS and it works great!

It's great to have this forum for a resource.
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UT_Grandpa View Post
I took the microwave oven out of it's cabinet and in the hole were the TV coax cables and a 12 Gauge house battery cable that is powering the preamplifier on the rooftop TV antenna. I spliced into that wire and ran it to a 12V lighter socket (marine grade) that is hanging outside the cabinet using the same hole as the coax cable to the TV.

Put microwave back into it's cabinet. When I want to use the TV on battery I unplug it from the 110 VAC outlet and plug it into an inverter (150 Watt) that is plugged into the outlet I installed.

Pretty simple and let's me choose what form of AC power I want to use for the TV.


Thanks for the idea! I wired my inverter with the same procedure, just directly to the inverter terminals instead of the lighter socket. I was contemplating putting it in the cabinet with a switch, but pretty warm in there, so it is behind the TV. Works great.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:01 AM   #13
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... this is how we roll:
Honda 2000i
15 gallon blue tote tank for gray water
400w inverter to run the tv and dvd and recharge electronic devices
Dual deep cycle batteries, with battery disconnect switch
6 gallon FW jug to shuttle water
That's almost exactly our same setup.
  • Same generator and tanks. Generator used only for recharging.
  • 2 group 27 12V deep cycle (not dual purpose) batteries. They're in trolling motor cases for portability and to use as backup power source for CPAP during power failure at home. (Just did that during Irma, worked as intended.)
  • 300 W inverter but don't use it (don't watch much TV.)
  • USB devices can be recharged at power station behind TV.
  • I added an extra 12V outlet with USB ports at the front bed for CPAPs (w/ 12V power supply, not inverters) and phone charging. It also has a voltage display for easy monitoring.
If you dry camp a lot and need to use your laptop, buying a 12V power supply for the laptop is more efficient than using an inverter. The latter is adequate for occasional use and serves multiple purposes.

Other mods: in addition to cutting the power supply to the refrigerator heat strip, add a power switch inline with the entertainment system. Otherwise, it's a parasite load. Also, remember to shut off the antenna booster if not in use.
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