Mini Lite 2511S Owners Thread

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Unless it's fixed permanently, you may be better off moving the spare to one side. Adding the extender will potentially add a LOT of leverage, effectively multiplying the weight of the generator to greater than the capacity of the accessory hitch.

X2. I use a 2-bike rack on my 2511S rear hitch receiver without a hitch extender and store my spare tire in the front storage compartment. Easy to check tire pressure, no PIA to get to if I need it and it stays clean. If your front storage area won’t work there are under tongue and cable winch spare tire mounts. BAL also makes a nice Hide-A-Spare:
https://norcoind.com/bal/products/co...-a-spare.shtml

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

X2. I use a 2-bike rack on my 2511S rear hitch receiver without a hitch extender and store my spare tire in the front storage compartment. Easy to check tire pressure, no PIA to get to if I need it and it stays clean. If your front storage area won’t work there are under tongue and cable winch spare tire mounts. BAL also makes a nice Hide-A-Spare:
https://norcoind.com/bal/products/co...-a-spare.shtml

Here's a thread on my BAL install:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ite-91088.html

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Here's a thread on my BAL install:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ite-91088.html

Five years later, what is your opinion of the hide-a-spare? Now that all Mini-Lites come with enclosed underbellies, is this an option? What adaptations must be made, if any?

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Five years later, what is your opinion of the hide-a-spare? Now that all Mini-Lites come with enclosed underbellies, is this an option? What adaptations must be made, if any?

Well, I haven't actually had to use it (other than checking air pressure), so it's out of sight, out of mind, which to me is good. Last year the locking knob threads had rusted some and I needed a pair of pliers to unscrew it. So I put some grease on it to prevent rusting.

Mine is a Model 28217. They make a Model 28218 for rigs with enclosed underbellies, which drops the bars down farther. There are some dimensions provided here:

https://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/f...er%20Sheet.pdf

[Camp4two]

Installed the TST-507 TPMS with theft resistant cap sensors, monochrome monitor and repeater.
https://www.amazon.com/PACK-507-CAP-...s%2C206&sr=8-8

After programming each cap sensor per the instruction manual, I installed each sensor on my metal valve stems.
1. Install the anti-theft brass hex nut onto the stem (photo 1)
2. Hand tightened sensor per instructions.
3. Used supplied wrench to tighten brass hex nut against sensor (photo 2).
4. Cap sensor install completed (photos 3 and 4).
5. The supplied repeater comes with mounting screws or 2-sided self-adhesive tape. I wired the repeater directly to battery and tucked the repeater inside the battery box (right side, photo 5). Later, I’ll connect the repeater downstream of the battery disconnect switch so it turns on/off with the switch.
6. The monochrome monitor (photo 6) is battery powered or can be plugged in with supplied 12v cigarette power adapter or charged by the USB adaptor. The monitor appears to have a non-replaceable battery. It comes with a cradle and suction cup holder. I used my F150 cell phone cup holder.

How to replace the cap sensor battery:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2k33BDasgQ

Cap sensor battery is CR1632.

My 2511S tires are ST205/75R14 @ 65 PSI cold.
High pressure set at 80 PSI.
Low pressure set at 58 PSI.
High temperature setting: 158* F (Factory recommended default for all tires).

I had two flat tires at different times on our factory China bombs. Fortunately they were both noticed while parked (I had no TPMS). They could have been blowouts with wheel damage had I not noticed them. I replaced all tires including the spare with USA made Goodyear Endurance tires.

Taking the TPMS on its first trip from Nevada to Arizona next week into mid-100 daily temperatures. I will now be able to monitor the high pressure, low pressure and high temperature settings.

[The_Dude_Abides]

2021 looks like it has some minor changes. I like how the tools are clamped on to the wall of the front storage (4:29-4:45). I wonder if we can get those somewhere??

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by The_Dude_Abides

2021 looks like it has some minor changes. I like how the tools are clamped on to the wall of the front storage (4:29-4:45). I wonder if we can get those somewhere??

WRT to your comment and Post #418 video.

Here is FR's Customer Service contact info. They should be able to order them or provide a manufacture and part number.

Rockwood & Flagstaff Customer Service
Direct phone: (574)642-8944
Fax: (574) 970-6881
For all new part or warranty inquires please email:
rockwoodcustomerservice@forestriverinc.com
flagstaffcustomerservice@forestriverinc.com
You can also call us at (574)642-8943.

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

Installed the TST-507 TPMS with theft resistant cap sensors, monochrome monitor and repeater.
https://www.amazon.com/PACK-507-CAP-...s%2C206&sr=8-8

After programming each cap sensor per the instruction manual, I installed each sensor on my metal valve stems.
1. Install the anti-theft brass hex nut onto the stem (photo 1)
2. Hand tightened sensor per instructions.
3. Used supplied wrench to tighten brass hex nut against sensor (photo 2).
4. Cap sensor install completed (photos 3 and 4).
5. The supplied repeater comes with mounting screws or 2-sided self-adhesive tape. I wired the repeater directly to battery and tucked the repeater inside the battery box (right side, photo 5). Later, I’ll connect the repeater downstream of the battery disconnect switch so it turns on/off with the switch.
6. The monochrome monitor (photo 6) is battery powered or can be plugged in with supplied 12v cigarette power adapter or charged by the USB adaptor. The monitor appears to have a non-replaceable battery. It comes with a cradle and suction cup holder. I used my F150 cell phone cup holder.

How to replace the cap sensor battery:

Cap sensor battery is CR1632.

My 2511S tires are ST205/75R14 @ 65 PSI cold.
High pressure set at 80 PSI.
Low pressure set at 58 PSI.
High temperature setting: 158* F (Factory recommended default for all tires).

I had two flat tires at different times on our factory China bombs. Fortunately they were both noticed while parked (I had no TPMS). They could have been blowouts with wheel damage had I not noticed them. I replaced all tires including the spare with USA made Goodyear Endurance tires.

Taking the TPMS on its first trip from Nevada to Arizona next week into mid-100 daily temperatures. I will now be able to monitor the high pressure, low pressure and high temperature settings.

Update: My cap sensor replacement battery is CR2032 not CR1632 which is for the flow-through sensor. I confirmed CR2032 by phone with TST Tech Support.

[southwest maddog]

Hello, I am looking for suggestions on the best way to clean up this rust in and on my propane exhaust port.

Thanks,

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by southwest maddog

Hello, I am looking for suggestions on the best way to clean up this rust in and on my propane exhaust port.

Thanks,

Welcome to the forum.

Do you know the cause of rust in your furnace exhaust port?

Your 2020 2511S Suburban furnace is likely under a two year limited warranty. Before doing anything I would contact Suburban's Customer Service Department and send them your photos. You may have a warranty issue.

Customer Service Dept. Dayton, TN (423) 775-2131, Ext. 7101
Website: www.Airxcel.com

[southwest maddog]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

Welcome to the forum.

Do you know the cause of rust in your furnace exhaust port?

Your 2020 2511S Suburban furnace is likely under a two year limited warranty. Before doing anything I would contact Suburban's Customer Service Department and send them your photos. You may have a warranty issue.

Customer Service Dept. Dayton, TN (423) 775-2131, Ext. 7101
Website: www.Airxcel.com

I believe the cause is just being exposed to the elements for a year. I just bought the trailer and it is one year old. Thanks,

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by southwest maddog

I believe the cause is just being exposed to the elements for a year. I just bought the trailer and it is one year old. Thanks,

My current unit has been exposed to the elements for almost 9 years and doesn't look like that.
Take the advice and contact Suburban. It can't hurt.

[southwest maddog]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

My current unit has been exposed to the elements for almost 9 years and doesn't look like that.
Take the advice and contact Suburban. It can't hurt.

I will contact Suburban. We had a Flagstaff for four years before this one and it did not have this.

I also have rust on the yellow bars of the stabilizers. I think it may have been brought up here in the winter and gotten exposed to road salt.

Thanks,

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by southwest maddog

I will contact Suburban. We had a Flagstaff for four years before this one and it did not have this.

I also have rust on the yellow bars of the stabilizers. I think it may have been brought up here in the winter and gotten exposed to road salt.

Thanks,

That makes sense. I might also talk to the dealer and a FR rep for that much rust on a new RV.

[Camp4two]

The metal to metal contact of the propane tanks causes wear on the tray and it will eventually rust. I wire brushed the rust off, painted the tray and put in two layers of grip liner (like you put in drawers) to protect the tray. The grip liner is rubber and washable. The tanks will leave an impression in the grip liner and also makes a cushion. I cut a small opening in the liner for the drain hole at each end. The liner sticks to the tray over time so you may have to remove it with a putty knife. The liner I used is a tan color like the last photo.

SEM Trim Black #39143 is the matching spray paint for the tray and A frame.
I did not use a metal primer but it wouldn’t hurt. I also did some touch up painting around the A frame.

[Camp4two]

I have to replace one of the kitchen drawer slides on my 2019.5 2511S. I contacted FR Customer Service to get the correct manufacturer part number. I wanted the exact replacement to use the existing mount holes (cabinet end) and screws and add some gorilla glue.

Manufacturer: Hardware Resources
Part Number: 303FU18
Length: 18 inches
Weight capacity: 100 lbs. (not the drawer)

I purchased mine from Build.com. They are shipped as a pair.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

I have to replace one of the kitchen drawer slides on my 2019.5 2511S. I contacted FR Customer Service to get the correct manufacturer part number. I wanted the exact replacement to use the existing mount holes (cabinet end) and screws and add some gorilla glue.

Manufacturer: Hardware Resources
Part Number: 303FU18
Length: 18 inches
Weight capacity: 100 lbs. (not the drawer)

I purchased mine from Build.com. They are shipped as a pair.

Thanks for that. I have to replace a pair on one of my 2507S kitchen drawers.

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Thanks for that. I have to replace a pair on one of my 2507S kitchen drawers.

Chris, I received my pair of 18 inch kitchen drawer slides from Build.com. They are the exact replacement for my 2511S kitchen drawer slides. No screws are included. Should be the same for your 2507S.

Manufacturer: Hardware Resources
Part Number: 303FU18

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

Chris, I received my pair of 18 inch kitchen drawer slides from Build.com. They are the exact replacement for my 2511S kitchen drawer slides. No screws are included. Should be the same for your 2507S.

Manufacturer: Hardware Resources
Part Number: 303FU18

Update: I installed the drawer slides on my middle kitchen drawer and found the slides are not the exact replacement but they will fit. The new rail on the drawer is a little wider and new screw holes have to be made on the drawer (easy to do). Also the drawer did not latch as tight as the other drawers but it slides open and closes just fine.

I wrapped a 24 inch bungee cord around the three drawers for travel to keep the middle drawer from possibly sliding out. Magnetic latches or other drawer latch hardware should also work.

[Camp4two]

This is the 30 Amp Surge Protector I have for my 2511S:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of the best electrical safeguards is to have a surge protector between your shore power box and TT/RV power cord. I’ve seen many RVs power cord plugged into the shore power box without a surge protector (not good).