Mini Lite 2511S Owners Thread

[TwoKozy]

Anyone install new wiring thru their underbelly? My 2020 2511S has the 'D' package which is, I believe Rockwood 4 season installation.
Trying to install a Victron BMV-702 monitor cable up by the stairs above the T-stat.
Attempting to push an electricians fish tape from under the fireplace to the front tongue without completely removing the underbelly and insulation. Has anyone accomplished this with their trailer.
The right side has the propane line running exposed up to the stove/oven and water heater penetration. might have to go that route?
Maybe someone has found another route from the tongue to the T-stat?
Suggestions?

[elcorbs]

We picked up our 2022 2511S on a Saturday afternoon and headed to Florida from Arizona on Monday morning. We opened the door at our first stop for the evening and found the refrigerator door open and everything on the floor. The cap for the lock fell off and the door slammed into the cabinet damaging the door. I used duct tape to put on the caps to keep them from falling off again. On our second stop for the evening we noticed the refrigerator had started banging into the cabinet. I drilled some extra holes in the baseboard mount to try and secure the refrigerator to keep it from banging. We spent 8 days in Florida and Georgia before heading back home. During the trip home the refrigerator started moving and eventually broke the bottom baseboard and fell into the cabinet breaking it in several places. These 12 Volt refrigerators are not attached anywhere except to the baseboard which isn’t attached to anything with structure. A very poor design. Besides some minor issues with a drawer not closing and a water leak coming from the ward slide, everything else worked perfectly. We Love the lay out on this floor plan and can’t wait to get back to camping. Taking to the dealer this week to get it repaired.

[TwoKozy]

Our 120v/propane refrigerator is bolted thru the back and the floor. Sorry to hear about yours breaking loose. Sounds like you handled it well.
Shake down cruises need to be close to home.
Can't get that big bedroom drawer behind the kitchen to stay latched closed while traveling. Work in progress.
Left the bathroom door unlatched one travel day and broke the magnetic stop holder. FR had replacement.
Oh ya, replaced the toilet myself after Dometic(?) sent me a new version that didn't retain urine!!!Pew what a smell!

The overall layout is fantastic. My wife and I did a 6 month cross country trip last year and we are about to embark on a 4 month one next week. Nevada to New England states and all that lies in between. Perfect for the two of us.

[rvflyer57]

I recently removed the refrigerator in my 2513s to accomplish two things. Put stiffeners behind the cabinet sidewalls and fix the severe back tilt in the refrigerator. There was absolutely no support behind the plywood sidewalk making the power outlet useless. Too much deflection. The refrigerator was tilted such that the top was well inside the cabinet and the bottom was out nearly an inch. I too was surprised the screws at the bottom was all that held it in. The front base of the cabinet is mdf and one screw was not even in the wood. The cabinet floor is plywood and was held by just one screw. The front was curved up and it was not level side to side. I added fir strips behind the front base and used longer screws. Then screwed the plywood floor all the way around. I added a thin sheet of ply to raise the back and get the refrigerator more level. So far so good. I was going to reverse the doors (which it is capable of), but the angle iron used as the mount allows the door to be mounted only one way. In my case the door will not open enough to remove the shelves or crisper drawer. Otherwise, ver happy with refrigerator.

[elcorbs]

We actually wanted the 12 volt refrigerator for more storage and the ability to cool down rapidly and make ice. If I had known that it was installed this way I may have changed my mind about it. The refrigerator did exceptionally well during the trip. I like having the solar panel to keep the 2 batteries charged just in case we wanted to do an overnight and not have to worry about the refrigerator running down the battery. I noticed the cabinet where the refrigerator was installed had some separation ( from the refrigerator hitting the cabinet) before we did our PDI. The repair team at the dealership put it back together but never did investigate to see why it had separated. If they had seen what caused the separation and repaired that, we would not have had this issue. We love the 2511S. It is a perfect fit for the 2 of us with our small dog.

[elcorbs]

Originally Posted by rvflyer57

I recently removed the refrigerator in my 2513s to accomplish two things. Put stiffeners behind the cabinet sidewalls and fix the severe back tilt in the refrigerator. There was absolutely no support behind the plywood sidewalk making the power outlet useless. Too much deflection. The refrigerator was tilted such that the top was well inside the cabinet and the bottom was out nearly an inch. I too was surprised the screws at the bottom was all that held it in. The front base of the cabinet is mdf and one screw was not even in the wood. The cabinet floor is plywood and was held by just one screw. The front was curved up and it was not level side to side. I added fir strips behind the front base and used longer screws. Then screwed the plywood floor all the way around. I added a thin sheet of ply to raise the back and get the refrigerator more level. So far so good. I was going to reverse the doors (which it is capable of), but the angle iron used as the mount allows the door to be mounted only one way. In my case the door will not open enough to remove the shelves or crisper drawer. Otherwise, ver happy with refrigerator.

I wish I had known of this issue before the cross country trip. It is a very poor design. Not sure how long I will be out of an RV while they do a repair. The MDF wood that you are talking about completely separated on my refrigerator and it damaged that thin wall. Basically knocked a hole in it. Mine too had the top inside the cabinet yet the bottom was out an inch or so. Hopefully they can get it repaired quickly. We really love the RV and want to travel this summer.

[2plus1]

Last weekend we took our 2511S out for it's annual shakedown trip. This is the start of our third season and we love it. I'm also happy to say that another Canadian winter did no harm. It all works and we're ready to head South this weekend. Reading about the way the fridges are installed reminded me of one issue I had. The kitchen drawers under the sink are pre-fabricated as a unit and then set into place. The frame of the assembly is screwed to the floor at the back/bottom WITH ONE SMALL SCREW. One day, for whatever reason I opened all the drawers at once and that screw pulled out, the assembly pivoted and the drawers were at a 45 degree down angle. They stopped when they came into contact with the under side of the sink. Not wanting to use a longer screw for fear of 'spearing' a tank I went with the same length one size larger and now there are FIVE of them. Gorilla glue would be ideal also but I wasn't sure I wanted it to be that permanent. I do not know what the spec is as to how many the factory calls for but if I'm on piece work it's one place to cheat.

Summer is finally here, enjoy it folks.

[jsk125]

Originally Posted by elcorbs

We picked up our 2022 2511S on a Saturday afternoon and headed to Florida from Arizona on Monday morning. We opened the door at our first stop for the evening and found the refrigerator door open and everything on the floor. The cap for the lock fell off and the door slammed into the cabinet damaging the door. I used duct tape to put on the caps to keep them from falling off again. On our second stop for the evening we noticed the refrigerator had started banging into the cabinet. I drilled some extra holes in the baseboard mount to try and secure the refrigerator to keep it from banging. We spent 8 days in Florida and Georgia before heading back home. During the trip home the refrigerator started moving and eventually broke the bottom baseboard and fell into the cabinet breaking it in several places. These 12 Volt refrigerators are not attached anywhere except to the baseboard which isn’t attached to anything with structure. A very poor design. Besides some minor issues with a drawer not closing and a water leak coming from the ward slide, everything else worked perfectly. We Love the lay out on this floor plan and can’t wait to get back to camping. Taking to the dealer this week to get it repaired.

We got ours in August .. after two trips the fridge was banging the frame. I took it in for warranty work. They had to pull out the fridge and rebuild the inside framing so the fridge fit correctly. It worked well, but they did tear our floor (I just saw this spring). So tell them to be careful.

Otherwise .. we have had no problems. Overall good build, and we've had a ball on our 4-5 trips. We just did a week in Cape May, NJ. All good.

Enjoy the 2511s!

[elcorbs]

Originally Posted by jsk125

We got ours in August .. after two trips the fridge was banging the frame. I took it in for warranty work. They had to pull out the fridge and rebuild the inside framing so the fridge fit correctly. It worked well, but they did tear our floor (I just saw this spring). So tell them to be careful.

Otherwise .. we have had no problems. Overall good build, and we've had a ball on our 4-5 trips. We just did a week in Cape May, NJ. All good.

Enjoy the 2511s!

This seems to be an issue for all of us. Made an appointment for 14 June. Will keep you posted.

[streeter22]

I have a couple questions hopefully get some help. I have a 2021 Rockwood Mini Lite 2104S. I am going off grid for the first time. I was looking for some help on how to fill the water to my potable water tank so I don't air bound the system. Also what switches do I need to turn on as far as water tank, do I turn on the tank heater or hot water gas heater? Thank you all so much this forum is great

[TwoKozy]

The tank heaters are for cold weather camping. They keep the tanks from freezing and have a thermostat that energizes them at 47 degrees F. Don't need them this time of year.Leave off and save battery power.
The propane (gas) water heater only needs to be turned on after you set up at a site. I am of the belief that the propane should be turned off at the tanks while traveling. Sure it will come up for discussion. Turn it and the water pump on during set up for camping. Leave off when away from TT.
Our 2020 2511S has a 120v/propane refrigerator that once cooled stays that way, shut off for 4-7 hours while we travel. My DW swears the propane, while boondocking, keeps it much colder than when switched to 120v at a electric site. We have a little fan (D cell batteries) that we leave running up near the cooling fins on the top shelf to help circulate the air inside.
Safe travels

[jimmarrott]

Originally Posted by TwoKozy

Anyone install new wiring thru their underbelly? My 2020 2511S has the 'D' package which is, I believe Rockwood 4 season installation.
Trying to install a Victron BMV-702 monitor cable up by the stairs above the T-stat.
Attempting to push an electricians fish tape from under the fireplace to the front tongue without completely removing the underbelly and insulation. Has anyone accomplished this with their trailer.
The right side has the propane line running exposed up to the stove/oven and water heater penetration. might have to go that route?
Maybe someone has found another route from the tongue to the T-stat?
Suggestions?

Did you have any luck with this? I'm about to embark on a similar journey, but was thinking about mounting my Victron monitor underneath my solar controller/panel.

[TwoKozy]

Yes it all worked out well.Found a large cable chase (hole in the floor) behind the big drawers under the fireplace. Was able to push a fish tape towards the front. Had to remove some tek screws holding up the underbelly black cover and gently pry it off of the frame to access the existing wiring. On the left side below the water heater, there was one cross member that I had to reach up and feed the fish tape up and over. But from the water heater ares to the front of the trailer was a breeze. Pulled a string in along with the cat5 cable for the Victron for future installations? I mounted my BMS at eye level along side the big cupboard storage area next to the thermostat. All works great.Needed my DW to help me get the fish tape from the inside to the undercarriage.Then on my own.
The cable installation took 3 - 4 hours. Can send pictures or more info if you need it.
Safe travels.

[TwoKozy]

Did you ever fill your fresh water tank?
I forgot that part of your questions.
I fill it with water till it squirts me from the little air vent next to the filler cap. Looks like a button size screen.
I've found the led indicator lights, at the control board, for all three tanks to be fairly unpredictable and definitely not reliable. They may be considered an indicator but not accurate.Your better off looking down your toilet bowl to see the black tank level than relying on the indicator light.JMHO.
Safe travels.

[jimmarrott]

Originally Posted by TwoKozy

Yes it all worked out well.Found a large cable chase (hole in the floor) behind the big drawers under the fireplace. Was able to push a fish tape towards the front. Had to remove some tek screws holding up the underbelly black cover and gently pry it off of the frame to access the existing wiring. On the left side below the water heater, there was one cross member that I had to reach up and feed the fish tape up and over. But from the water heater ares to the front of the trailer was a breeze. Pulled a string in along with the cat5 cable for the Victron for future installations? I mounted my BMS at eye level along side the big cupboard storage area next to the thermostat. All works great.Needed my DW to help me get the fish tape from the inside to the undercarriage.Then on my own.
The cable installation took 3 - 4 hours. Can send pictures or more info if you need it.
Safe travels.

Thanks! The Battle Born batteries, and all the goodies are showing up. Hoping to get the install done next week before we head out for the weekend. Cheers.

[dvdlite]

Hi all,

I just joined after having just purchased a 2021 2511S.

Can anybody tell me if there are any wires, pipes, tanks, or components mounted under the box/step on the right-hand side of the bed (facing forward)? It looks like the power inverter is under the left-hand side box/step, but I'm hoping the right side is empty.

I'm trying to determine whether I can put a cat-door here and reach the pass-through storage area. The goal being to place a litter box in the storage area to isolate odor and to simplify cleanup.

Photos of my concept below.. has anybody tried/done this?

Thanks!

[TwoKozy]

What a lucky cat! were you able to find safe passage to the pass thru? Great idea. Our pass thru is full of storage containers.
Safe travels.

[dvdlite]

Originally Posted by TwoKozy

What a lucky cat! were you able to find safe passage to the pass thru? Great idea. Our pass thru is full of storage containers.
Safe travels.

Thanks, I haven’t dared to cut into the box yet. Still hoping to find out if it’s feasible before I do something that can’t be undone! :-)

[GolfingDave]

Just insulated my pass thru. Easy enough to pull the back panel of the pass thru loose a bit. I think there are aluminum structure members right there that may thwart you plans . Wire for right side pass thru light is there on mine.

[itat]

Sorry if this has been discussed already on this thread but at 759 posts (as I write this) I’m not going to read all of them before asking my question. My DW and I are considering downsizing eventually and we like the floor plan of the 2511S but without having ever walked in one there is one concern I have and that’s accessing the bypass valves on the back of the water heater tank. It looks like you have to remove a drawer in the kitchen or the drawer in the bedroom. Is that correct? Has anyone come up with a mod to make it easier to access the bypass valves? I drain the water lines after almost every trip and when doing so I put the WH valves into bypass mode to ensure no crud from the bottom of the tank gets sucked back into the water lines. So this is something I’d be accessing regularly. On the larger version of this floor plan in the new 8262RBS, they use the Nautilus system so its easy to put the WH in bypass mode but it would be nice to have the shorter trailer.