Mini Lite 2511S Owners Thread

[Patty1161]

Looks perfect. Enjoy your travels!

[dhbranum]

I've heard if you don't buy locally the local dealer may refuse warranty work or put you behind his customers. Several here have purchased long distance. What has been your experience? Looking to get a 2511, but none close

[44specials]

In the bathroom under the “linen closet” there is a panel with 3 hinges unscrew the single hinge on the left and the filter housing and water pump are in that compartment. Not the easiest spot to work on them if you need to. I haven’t done it yet but I plan on bypassing the onboard filter and keep using my inline external water filter. The onboard filter housings have a reputation of leaking (deserved or not, I don’t know) whether from defect of user error. ie: tightening too tight.

[Patty1161]

Hi, has anyone investigated the location of the manual crank for both slide outs? I remember my dealer mentioning them but have know idea where they are. Photos would be a great help. Have not had a problem with my slide outs, but want to be prepared in case!

Also does the tongue power jack take a 3amp or 5amp fuse? Love this thread and all of the information! Enjoy 😉 your travels everyone!

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Patty1161

Hi, has anyone investigated the location of the manual crank for both slide outs? I remember my dealer mentioning them but have know idea where they are. Photos would be a great help. Have not had a problem with my slide outs, but want to be prepared in case!

Also does the tongue power jack take a 3amp or 5amp fuse? Love this thread and all of the information! Enjoy 😉 your travels everyone!

FR should have included with your 2511S:
-The locking bar for the large slide out. We never use this bar.
-The manual crank for the slide outs.
-The manual crank for the power tongue jack.

All of the above items was located in our pass through storage upon delivery. If not there look behind your sofa. Go back to your dealer if they did not provide them. Sorry, I don't have photos to send as our 2511S is in storage a few miles away.

The in-line fuse for the power tongue jack is 30 Amp. We keep spare fuses but have never yet had to replace one.

[Patty1161]

Thank you for your reply and yes I do have the cranks. I am looking for the location of where you insert the crank for the emergency manual operation for both the L/R and B/R slide outs?

[44specials]

This is how you manually operate the schwintek slide https://youtu.be/bGL4aILZYcY

For the main slide out there is a hole about 1.5” diameter to the right of the entry door down on the plastic part of the wheel well. This is where you insert the tool to manually retract the slide.

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by 44specials

This is how you manually operate the schwintek slide https://youtu.be/bGL4aILZYcY

For the main slide out there is a hole about 1.5” diameter to the right of the entry door down on the plastic part of the wheel well. This is where you insert the tool to manually retract the slide.

X2 Here is a photo:

[Patty1161]

Thank you so much for the information and photo. As soon as I get my RV back from having warranty issues (it has been over 1 month now and supposed to be worked on this Tuesday) I will check it out! Now I just have to find the emergency manual crank insert area for the B/R (wardrobe) slide out. If anyone is familiar with this, please let me know.

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Patty1161

Thank you so much for the information and photo. As soon as I get my RV back from having warranty issues (it has been over 1 month now and supposed to be worked on this Tuesday) I will check it out! Now I just have to find the emergency manual crank insert area for the B/R (wardrobe) slide out. If anyone is familiar with this, please let me know.

There is no manual crank for the 2511S wardrobe schwintek slide. 44specials post below (see his YouTube link) to manually override the wardrobe slide is correct. Here is a photo of our 2511S slide controller which is located inside the drivers side pass through storage in the upper right corner. Instructions both in the YouTube video and on the front of the slide controller explain how manually override the wardrobe slide out. Hope this helps.

[JasonAndAutumn]

Anyone else find the location of the front grey water drain frustrating? The design doesn't give much room to get the cap on and off and hooking up the hose is also frustrating, anyone else experience this or am I the just "special"

[timetogo8]

I haven't noticed it being any different than the others. Is it too close to something else on your trailer?

[RRHunter]

Originally Posted by JasonAndAutumn

Anyone else find the location of the front grey water drain frustrating? The design doesn't give much room to get the cap on and off and hooking up the hose is also frustrating, anyone else experience this or am I the just "special"

Agree. Also, as in previous post about one of our wires broken on the slide out belt - turns out One of the zip ties broke. The wire then got behind this grey water drain and caught on the bolt and broke the wire. I have now repaired the wire and doubled up on all the existing zip ties. So far seems to have fixed the problem. Finally found another new 2511 and they have slightly modified the slide out electric “belt”. Guess others were having a bit of an issue too.

[Camp4two]

Last trip out our 2511S got a dent from one of those gas pump protective posts. The dent was to the small section of the rolled aluminum at bottom right of the large slide out (top photos).

I contacted FR and found they sell the replacement rolled aluminum in 4’, 8’ or 12’ lengths. I ordered a 4’ length, removed the dented section, cut out the new rolled aluminum and replaced the section myself (bottom photos). There is enough of the 4’ section left that if this happens again to this area, I have an extra piece. Any easy fix for the DIY inclined.

Product Description: Rolled Aluminum - M7: Alloy Metalic - 12 7/8" W/3" radius - V#301219245, Available in 4', 8' or 12' lenghts.

There is no touch-up paint available.

Cost: $17.68 for a 4' length plus $30 crate charge (bubble wrapped in box).

[RRHunter]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

Last trip out our 2511S got a dent from one of those gas pump protective posts. The dent was to the small section of the rolled aluminum at bottom right of the large slide out (top photos).

I contacted FR and found they sell the replacement rolled aluminum in 4’, 8’ or 12’ lengths. I ordered a 4’ length, removed the dented section, cut out the new rolled aluminum and replaced the section myself (bottom photos). There is enough of the 4’ section left that if this happens again to this area, I have an extra piece. Any easy fix for the DIY inclined.

Product Description: Rolled Aluminum - M7: Alloy Metalic - 12 7/8" W/3" radius - V#301219245, Available in 4', 8' or 12' lenghts.

There is no touch-up paint available.

Cost: $17.68 for a 4' length plus $30 crate charge (bubble wrapped in box).

Thanks for that info. Looks really good. Would be good for all of us to post mods or upgrades we have done on our 2511. Also, considering if should order bit of that metal in case of future issues myself.

[WannaBcamping]

Where does one find the shut-off (rerouting) valves to the hot water tank in the 2511S for winterizing? I know the hot water tank is under the kitchen window, but the kitchen cabinets seem to make it inaccessible. Can't find an access panel for this.

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by WannaBcamping

Where does one find the shut-off (rerouting) valves to the hot water tank in the 2511S for winterizing? I know the hot water tank is under the kitchen window, but the kitchen cabinets seem to make it inaccessible. Can't find an access panel for this.

The access to the HW tank valves is through the cabinet drawers below the kitchen sink. I removed the two bottom drawers (slide out hinges) and reached back to the two valves at the HW tank.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by WannaBcamping

Where does one find the shut-off (rerouting) valves to the hot water tank in the 2511S for winterizing? I know the hot water tank is under the kitchen window, but the kitchen cabinets seem to make it inaccessible. Can't find an access panel for this.

Looking at pics on-line, I'd guess it's under the countertop in that area between the sink and the stove. You probably have to remove the drawers under the sink and look to the right. There MIGHT be an access/barrier panel that may have to be removed between the drawer area and the water heater area.

[rickj514]

Hi Everyone,

Marilyn and I are in the process of buying a Flagstaff 25FBLS, which is essentially the same trailer as the Rockwood 2511S. I almost hate to bring up this topic as it has been generally covered ad nauseam on this forum. However, I'd like to get opinions from folks that actually own the same trailer and have personal experience.

The 25FBLS trailer we're buying comes with the Coleman 13.5K BTU Mach 3 Plus air conditioning unit, but we still have the opportunity to upgrade to the 15K one. I'm wondering two things:

1 - Does the 15K generate much more cold air than the 13.5? According to the product brochures they both draw the same amount of current and even weigh the same, which is probably in error. We're in the Southwest, so we could find ourselves camping in some warm weather sometimes, but we avoid real hot areas.

2- Since we do a lot of dry camping, a big issue for me is the ability to run the AC with our Yamaha EF2000iS V2 inverter / generator. This V2 Yamaha generator is supposed to be equivalent to the popular Honda EU2000I generator. According to the specs, it can generate a running current of about 1600 watts and a max of 2000 watts. I've read that many folks install a "Micro-Air" to help with the high power requirements when the AC is starting. After that, they can run either of the AC units. Any experience with that here?

Thanks in advance!

Rick

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by rickj514

Hi Everyone,

Marilyn and I are in the process of buying a Flagstaff 25FBLS, which is essentially the same trailer as the Rockwood 2511S. I almost hate to bring up this topic as it has been generally covered ad nauseam on this forum. However, I'd like to get opinions from folks that actually own the same trailer and have personal experience.

The 25FBLS trailer we're buying comes with the Coleman 13.5K BTU Mach 3 Plus air conditioning unit, but we still have the opportunity to upgrade to the 15K one. I'm wondering two things:

1 - Does the 15K generate much more cold air than the 13.5? According to the product brochures they both draw the same amount of current and even weigh the same, which is probably in error. We're in the Southwest, so we could find ourselves camping in some warm weather sometimes, but we avoid real hot areas.

2- Since we do a lot of dry camping, a big issue for me is the ability to run the AC with our Yamaha EF2000iS V2 inverter / generator. This V2 Yamaha generator is supposed to be equivalent to the popular Honda EU2000I generator. According to the specs, it can generate a running current of about 1600 watts and a max of 2000 watts. I've read that many folks install a "Micro-Air" to help with the high power requirements when the AC is starting. After that, they can run either of the AC units. Any experience with that here?

Thanks in advance!

Rick

We got the option 15K BTU A/C upgrade for $181 with our 2019 2511S purchased last October. Better air flow (CFM), having two slide outs, a reasonable upgrade cost and several positive FR posts pushed us to the 15K BTU A/C.

Will live in Nevada. Have used our A/C a few times under hookups when temps were in the 90s. Had no issues with how well the this A/C performed. Have yet to get through our first summer, but we don't camp where temps exceed 100.

WRT to your comment #2, we dry camp with solar panels and a inverter. Hopefully, another 2511S/25FBLS owner can chime in on your comment.