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07-29-2020, 08:45 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 3,337
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NOT a Moron at all
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutch606
Second owners of Geo pro g19fd model.
Gas furnace and stove work dandy as does 120 shore or battery.
However, I cannot get the water heater to warm anything via electric or gas.
Freshwater tank is half full. Valves appear (?) to be set correct / not in bypass.
On gas heat I get the red fault light, but no warm water.
On elec heat I get no warm water.
Becker to ensure both showers are not in bypass or mixing cold/hot.
And when holding the hot PEX line it’s seeming the same temp as inbound cold line.
Finally outside the switch is currently ok but doesn’t seem to make any difference.
Suggestions??? Thanks!!
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You Are NOT a Moron. At least you know it is a Water Heater, not a Hot Water Heater.
There is no need to have a heater to heat Hot Water is there? 
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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07-29-2020, 08:49 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phipps33
I used to do that, but then when reading my WH manual it said not to do that. Somethjng about wanting a small air pocket inside to cushion the water as it expanded.
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thanks, i guess that makes sense since there's no expansion tank. I'll make sure to not fully purge it!
__________________
Travel Trailer: 2004 Flagstaff 25LB
New Tow Vehicle: 2017 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost, supercrew short bed FX4 Lariat
Old Tow Vehicle: 2009 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Ext. Cab Short Bed
Travel Pooch:Sophie the Sato - Cats: Rhody and Hazy
2018:22nights / 2019:31Nights / 2020:18Nights
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08-08-2020, 08:40 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Florida Nature Coast
Posts: 47
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Very Funny
Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid
You Are NOT a Moron. At least you know it is a Water Heater, not a Hot Water Heater.
There is no need to have a heater to heat Hot Water is there? |
That was funny! Needed a good laugh!!
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08-08-2020, 08:59 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 1,886
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It took several trips to realize the electric is slow to come on.
We traveled several times. I turned the electric side of the water heater on. Felt the case a little while later. Nothing! Panic time. The DW is tired and wants a shower.
Then started the what is wrong thing. The gas gets hot asap.
Takes an hour before the electric shows much signs of life!
The modern rv is getting to be a complicated beast.
The gas electric fridge is another steep learning curve!
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08-08-2020, 01:51 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 3,337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie43
That was funny! Needed a good laugh!!
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It is funny but it is true. If you look at any set of house pans or RV plans the Water Hdater is labeled as "WH" There is no HWH on any plans. 
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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08-08-2020, 06:04 PM
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#26
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Long time camper.
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 201
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Just as a general fact
To test the WH electric heat coil, turn off all power, an Ohm meter on each end of the coil will show continuity or all 0’s or no Resistance. Make sure power is off.
SamTummo
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08-08-2020, 06:33 PM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 25,138
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A proper functioning electric heating element in the Suburban water heater is now around the 10 Ohms range (the resistance is what makes the heat),as per their service manual we keep in the forum library
You do need to disconnect at least one of the electrical wires on the element to get the proper resistance value to it when checking with a multimeter. This video (although not for a RV water heater) will explain how to test electric water heater elements
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo
__________________
 2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
I often say to myself, "I can't believe that cloning machine worked."
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08-11-2020, 10:07 PM
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#28
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Long time camper.
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 201
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I stand corrected
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
A proper functioning electric heating element in the Suburban water heater is now around the 10 Ohms range (the resistance is what makes the heat),as per their service manual we keep in the forum library
Attachment 236107
You do need to disconnect at least one of the electrical wires on the element to get the proper resistance value to it when checking with a multimeter. This video (although not for a RV water heater) will explain how to test electric water heater elements
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo |
What I meant was continuity tester. If it has continuity it is working. No continuity replace it.
SamTummo
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