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Old 05-29-2024, 12:28 PM   #1
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Need Help: Battery Charging Issue with 2023 Rockwood Minilite 2509S

Good afternoon, everyone! I know we have some posts on this topic, but after 3 weeks, I still haven't been able to solve my problem, so I'm asking for help from the experts because summer is short in Wisconsin.

I have a 2023 Rockwood Minilite 2509S. After plugging it into an outlet that I believe was faulty, it has never charged my battery again. However, everything in the RV works because I have solar power. Even the air conditioning works when plugged into the outlet.

The only thing that doesn't work is charging my battery with power from the outlet. Charging it through the solar panel or the car works.

I've disassembled the electrical panel and checked with a multimeter that power reaches the converter and leaves the converter. I've checked all the circuit breakers with a multimeter, and on the one with the reset button, I pressed it, but nothing changed. Here are photos of all the places I tried to observe something wrong.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I really appreciate your attention and response.
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Old 05-29-2024, 02:23 PM   #2
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While on shore power, pull the two 40A (orange) fuses from the panel. Are your lights and fans working? What is the voltage between the NEG- (white wire) terminal and the POSITIVE (red wire) terminal at the bottom of the fuse panel?
What is the battery voltage?

With the 40A fuses out, if your light/fan is working, that indicates that your converter is running the load. If you have voltage on the POSITIVE terminal of the panel, that indicates your wire is good to some source (battery or solar).

I would measure the voltage between the posts of each of the 3 resettable frame breakers (should be zero).
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Old 05-29-2024, 02:58 PM   #3
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With shore power plugged in measure voltage at the batteries. If the converter is working then the voltage would be over 13 volts.

The two orange fuses are the protection from backwards battery connection
I assume.

Measure voltage on both in the four available small areas on top of the fuse. I suspect one or both are 0. Should read the voltage of the battery or converter.
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Old 05-29-2024, 03:02 PM   #4
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Thank you.
Are your lights and fans working? Yes. light/fan still working while unplug both 40 fuses.
What is the voltage between the NEG- (white wire) terminal and the POSITIVE (red wire) terminal at the bottom of the fuse panel? 11.9V
What is the battery voltage? 12.1V
The voltage between frame breakers are 0. If I touch one of the multimeter wires on floor gives me 12V.

If I remove the 40 fuses, there is a green light at back of my converter that turns out. I think means the converter is not working.

Any guess why I cannot get the shore charging my battery?
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Old 05-29-2024, 04:14 PM   #5
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I'm considering two things:

When I remove the two 40-amp fuses, the green light on the converter turns off, indicating its proper functionality. Am I right?

Circuit breaker boxes: Pressing the reset button on the circuit breaker turns off the red light for the component shown in the picture. However, upon release, turns on the red light. Does anyone recognize this component with a red light and antenna?
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Old 05-29-2024, 04:33 PM   #6
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Turn OFF shorepower 120v
if any lights of fan works inside then Battery is connected correctly
TURN OFF INVERTER
------------------------------------------------------


disconnect battery negative AND any solar.... for testing

Turn ON shorepower ... and the converter
If the lights and fan work with the battery disconnected converter is working
Measure the voltage
1) 4th picture ..... probe at the fat red wire on the fuse panel + other probe on the white one should be 13.6 or higher

2) measure voltage directly at the battery positive and negative cables
while battery is still disconnected ... you will be reading the voltage from converter
It should be 13.6 or slightly higher

If the voltage from converter is lower than 13.6 you need to check your wiring from converter to battery bad connection on either the positive or negative connections from converter.


Reconnect battery
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Old 05-29-2024, 05:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieguy View Post
Turn OFF shorepower 120v
if any lights of fan works inside then Battery is connected correctly
TURN OFF INVERTER
------------------------------------------------------


disconnect battery negative AND any solar.... for testing

Turn ON shorepower ... and the converter
If the lights and fan work with the battery disconnected converter is working
Measure the voltage
1) 4th picture ..... probe at the fat red wire on the fuse panel + other probe on the white one should be 13.6 or higher

2) measure voltage directly at the battery positive and negative cables
while battery is still disconnected ... you will be reading the voltage from converter
It should be 13.6 or slightly higher

If the voltage from converter is lower than 13.6 you need to check your wiring from converter to battery bad connection on either the positive or negative connections from converter.


Reconnect battery
When I disconnect the negative cable from the battery and turn on the shore power, the lights dim significantly, and after a while, there is no more power. However, I measured the shore power, and it is still delivering 120V to the panel. I'm not sure if it's a converter problem or a circuit breaker issue. I hope it's just the circuit breaker.
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Old 05-29-2024, 05:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfmello View Post
When I disconnect the negative cable from the battery and turn on the shore power, the lights dim significantly, and after a while, there is no more power. However, I measured the shore power, and it is still delivering 120V to the panel. I'm not sure if it's a converter problem or a circuit breaker issue. I hope it's just the circuit breaker.
With the battery cable lifted and shore power ON, the converter should handle the load of the lights and fans. It seems like your converter is not working.

When mine failed, it would test good with no load, but would not handle a higher load. I'm thinking yours is doing the same.
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Old 05-29-2024, 09:55 PM   #9
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Agree with what Joe said

Your converter takes 120 v AC and turns it into 12v DC (battery power)
your lights, slide, water pump and many other devices run on 12v (battery power)
converter is the 'power supply' to run the 12v DC and charge the batteries

Your next step is to measure the actual voltage being produced by the converter

you need to use a multimeter to confirm converter is not producing correct voltage... one probe on the red wire the other on the white
IF it reads 13.6 volts or higher converter is GOOD

also check the 40amp FUSES make sure they are not blown or damaged
use multimeter to measure OHMs across the fuse
if no meter... replace the fuses and try running the lights again without battery connected 120 shorepower ON and converter ON
---------------------------------------------------------------

shorepower 120v AC
Alternating Current .... is the same power used in houses
to run big items like TV, Water heaters, Room air conditioners and toasters / coffee makers


Your Inverter
takes battery power 12v and turns it into 120v AC
The opposite of the converter

You can run TV , small appliances etc from your INVERTER without being connected to shorepower or generator...

BUT... your battery will be drained faster.
after a while you'll work out how much power you can use and how long the battery will last
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Old 05-30-2024, 08:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieguy View Post
Agree with what Joe said

Your converter takes 120 v AC and turns it into 12v DC (battery power)
your lights, slide, water pump and many other devices run on 12v (battery power)
converter is the 'power supply' to run the 12v DC and charge the batteries

Your next step is to measure the actual voltage being produced by the converter

you need to use a multimeter to confirm converter is not producing correct voltage... one probe on the red wire the other on the white
IF it reads 13.6 volts or higher converter is GOOD

also check the 40amp FUSES make sure they are not blown or damaged
use multimeter to measure OHMs across the fuse
if no meter... replace the fuses and try running the lights again without battery connected 120 shorepower ON and converter ON
---------------------------------------------------------------

shorepower 120v AC
Alternating Current .... is the same power used in houses
to run big items like TV, Water heaters, Room air conditioners and toasters / coffee makers


Your Inverter
takes battery power 12v and turns it into 120v AC
The opposite of the converter

You can run TV , small appliances etc from your INVERTER without being connected to shorepower or generator...

BUT... your battery will be drained faster.
after a while you'll work out how much power you can use and how long the battery will last
Thank you very much, everyone. This is my first time using the forum, and I've received very good help. I really appreciate that.

I have already ordered a new converter on Amazon. I ordered this one, in case anyone would like to know: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B46SCH3T/. I'm not an electrician, but the reviews said it's not complicatedójust connect five wires.

Also, I found a helpful issue diagram that I uploaded here as well. It looks like you guys suggested I do that. Also I uploaded a table with types of converter from WFCO to check it out what is yours.

I will keep posting updates to see if this solves my problem.

I am thinking of changing my batteries to lithium without any other adjustments. The converter is supposed to auto-detect, so I donít foresee any issues. Has anyone had any issues with that?
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Old 05-30-2024, 08:40 AM   #11
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mine detected and switched AFTER the first charge cycle

on a new battery it should be shipped at around 60% connect it up and it should be no problem

If you got a lifepo that has already been charged to 100% let it discharge to around the 60% mark before turning on the converter (use the 120v breaker to turn it on/off)

When swapping the the converter UNPLUG shorepower
Disconnect the battery and any solar


Long nosed pliers were handy to have to thread wires more easily
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Old 05-30-2024, 08:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfmello View Post
I am thinking of changing my batteries to lithium without any other adjustments. The converter is supposed to auto-detect, so I donít foresee any issues. Has anyone had any issues with that?

A number of people have had issues with not getting enough charge current from the auto-detect converters as a result of poor ground connections. When or before you swap to Li batteries you should check the negative path wiring and especially clean up or fix any frame ground connections.
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Old 05-30-2024, 09:26 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jlankford View Post
A number of people have had issues with not getting enough charge current from the auto-detect converters as a result of poor ground connections. When or before you swap to Li batteries you should check the negative path wiring and especially clean up or fix any frame ground connections.
mine worked without fixing the ground

WFCO claim their auto detect is based on watching for the steep drop in amps at the end of the charging
Only lithium behave that way.... WFCO has a video on this somewhere

The bad ground ... which I fixed afterwards
only affected the speed in how fast the battery charged up then reached the CURVE

what bums me... spent all that time fixing the converter and getting cuts and scrapes... Now I don't use it only solar charges my battery

Someone sell me a Inverter they aren't using!
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Old 05-30-2024, 12:26 PM   #14
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....Circuit breaker boxes: Pressing the reset button on the circuit breaker turns off the red light for the component shown in the picture. However, upon release, turns on the red light. Does anyone recognize this component with a red light and antenna?
I don't believe anyone answered your question on what the component is. It is a repeater for the TPMS system.
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Old 06-02-2024, 09:49 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mfmello View Post
I'm considering two things:

When I remove the two 40-amp fuses, the green light on the converter turns off, indicating its proper functionality. Am I right?

Circuit breaker boxes: Pressing the reset button on the circuit breaker turns off the red light for the component shown in the picture. However, upon release, turns on the red light. Does anyone recognize this component with a red light and antenna?
The device with the red light is your TPMS amplifier.
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Old 06-02-2024, 09:56 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by mfmello View Post
Thank you very much, everyone. This is my first time using the forum, and I've received very good help. I really appreciate that.

I have already ordered a new converter on Amazon. I ordered this one, in case anyone would like to know: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B46SCH3T/. I'm not an electrician, but the reviews said it's not complicatedójust connect five wires.

Also, I found a helpful issue diagram that I uploaded here as well. It looks like you guys suggested I do that. Also I uploaded a table with types of converter from WFCO to check it out what is yours.

I will keep posting updates to see if this solves my problem.

I am thinking of changing my batteries to lithium without any other adjustments. The converter is supposed to auto-detect, so I donít foresee any issues. Has anyone had any issues with that?
That converter will charge LiFpeO4 batteries after they are discharged below 60%. Also make sure you change your solar charge controller to LiFpeO4 mode.
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