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Old 09-17-2015, 12:26 PM   #1
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Need lug nut torque specs

I'm in need of lug nut torque specs. We have a MicroLite 23LB which I believe is the sister camper to the Rockwood 2306.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:33 PM   #2
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During my PDI, the tech told me 140 lb-ft on the aluminum wheels and 110 lb-ft on the steel spare. But I didn't see any numbers in any of the paper work I got with the camper.

So who knows?
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:42 PM   #3
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Was just look'n at the dealer 1/2 hour ago, on the new ones the tag you could read for alum wheels, said 140 lbs.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:47 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
During my PDI, the tech told me 140 lb-ft on the aluminum wheels and 110 lb-ft on the steel spare. But I didn't see any numbers in any of the paper work I got with the camper.

So who knows?
Weird, didn't know the stud could tell the difference and max on a 1/2" stud is still 120lb/ft. I torque mine to 110lb/ft.
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:24 PM   #5
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Ok just got home and dug out the owners manual for the AL-KO axles and here is what they recommend Click image for larger version

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Old 09-17-2015, 09:14 PM   #6
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It says "Always use the wheel manufacturers recommendation." But what is that??
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:38 PM   #7
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Weird, didn't know the stud could tell the difference and max on a 1/2" stud is still 120lb/ft. I torque mine to 110lb/ft.
It isn't the stud but fundamentals of wheel design.
Steel wheels basically function like big "Belleville washer" so we are looking at the force needed to deform and pre-load the stud tension.

Aluminum centers are depending the stretch of the stud to provide the pre-load as the solid aluminum does not deflect.

Wheel studs are basically Grade 8 hardware so they have a torque limit or you will over stretch them which can result in stud fracture. There are tables available for max torque based on stud size.

Also stud torque can be messed up if regular oil or grease is used so studs and nuts should be clean and only lubed with WD-40 or Never-Seize.
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:11 PM   #8
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Owners manual has a section on tire safety.. Wildwood Heritage Glenn 299RE says to torque on final pass 85 -95 foot pounds. I had to buy tires on a trip with the old camper, and I torqued them to 100 foot pounds at the tire shop. 35 miles down the road, I decided to re-torque them.. good thing, they needed an eighth of a turn to get back to the 100 foot pound reading.. 50 miles later we got to the campground, and I went around again, and again got another eighth turn.. at home, I got true reading with no turn on the nut required.. So if you put new tires on, It might pay to look at them periodically.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:18 PM   #9
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While spring cleaning the Flagstaff in prep for Goshen trip, I found a sticker on the storage compartment by the jack handle that stated wheels where torqued to 90 ft-pounds. This is where the wheels were torqued to and checked prior to the trip when tires were replaced. Did check wheels in route and found 3 nuts out of the set that needed a bit more tightening. OC would be proud, carry torque wench and 1/2 sockets on TV on all trips! Have AL wheels on the Flagstaff.
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Old 09-18-2015, 05:56 PM   #10
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It says "Always use the wheel manufacturers recommendation." But what is that??
It says "Always use the wheel manufacturer’s recommendation but do not exceed 120 ft/lbs on 1/2" studs. Never exceed the wheel manufacturer specifications."
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:25 PM   #11
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\

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
It says "Always use the wheel manufacturers recommendation." But what is that??
It says "Always use the wheel manufacturer’s recommendation but do not exceed 120 ft/lbs on 1/2" studs. Never exceed the wheel manufacturer specifications."
Yeah, that's what I said. But what IS the manufacturers specifications?

No one seems to know.
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:47 PM   #12
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I have a spec sheet from HiSpec who makes my aluminum wheels and it says to torque between 90 and 120 ft-lbs. for 1/2" studs.
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Old 09-19-2015, 04:07 PM   #13
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It isn't the stud but fundamentals of wheel design...
Doesn't matter what wheel you use or the wheel design, stud torque is stud torque and a 1/2" stud has a max of 120lb/ft of torque. PERIOD!!!
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Old 09-19-2015, 04:15 PM   #14
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There can be a tq difference between steel and aluminum wheels.


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Old 09-20-2015, 11:53 AM   #15
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There can be a tq difference between steel and aluminum wheels.
Explain that please how the stud/lugnut knows the difference if you are torqueing to 75% proof load of the stud. Steel wheels will seldom require re-torqueing to seat while alum wheels will usually require 2-3 re-torqueing to finally seat, but the torque requirements of the stud remain constant.
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:06 PM   #16
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The steel wheel will deflect while torquing. Alum will not.
Steel wheels will use a acorn nut and alum will have a shoulder.




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Old 09-20-2015, 02:13 PM   #17
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Click image for larger version

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The tq specs for my wrangler.
Just as an example.


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Old 09-20-2015, 02:14 PM   #18
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The steel wheel will deflect while torquing. Alum will not.
Steel wheels will use a acorn nut and alum will have a shoulder.
Steel wheels on my truck, but no acorn nuts, alum wheels on trailer and no shoulders, both sets of lug nuts are chamfered on one side and flat on the other. Regardless, the wheels do NOT change the torque spec on the studs is all I'm trying to get across.
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:18 PM   #19
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Attachment 89375

The tq specs for my wrangler.
Just as an example.
Kenny, it still doesn't change the max torque on a 1/2" wheel stud. Different torques for different applications, but it DOES NOT CHANGE the MAX stud torque.
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:20 PM   #20
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The log nuts on my alum wheels are just a tapered type compression style like any steel wheel
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