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Old 03-13-2017, 08:25 PM   #21
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Right now we are at Branson and thanks to Global Warming we are suffering from Freeze Burn... sorry could not resist a good sarcasm... Anyway; we packed a small 1500W electric heater, at low 30s, the camper got to 82F, pretty darn toasty. If you turn the propane heater with the electric, will ramp up pretty fast. Went from 52F to 75F within 20 minutes. I am very surprised that one night hit high 20s and nothing froze. Filled the Fresh Water Tank about half way, turn the tank heaters on and seems to work. Touched one of the pads and was warmed. Cracked open the bunkbeds lower doors to let warm air in the pump and hose compartments; no leaks so far. On the Water Heater, leave the Electric on; when taking a shower, turn the Propane On. That will ramp up and keep hot water a bit longer.

With the Space Heater, you can do pretty much all. When using the Microwave or Coffe Maker, turn the heater off, brew your coffee and turn the heater on. Takes a good while to get cold inside. The mattress is pretty toasty; it does get warm and can be run along with the space heater. On shore power, we hardly use the propane heater.

So far, after 1 year of owership, we still using one of the 30 Lb propane tank. The other one is shut off, so I know when the tank is empty. If left both on and if you run out, you will end up without a warning and backup.
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Old 03-13-2017, 10:54 PM   #22
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I,m really liking the idea of installing 110v pass through outlet so when the opportunity irises the secondary internal electric heater can be run off an external power source/breaker. Eliminating the need to try and find a way to get an extension cord through a window etc.
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:11 PM   #23
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Just noticed some important. The lower side (floor) on front wall where the Murphy Bed hides. There is no air circulation and condesation sets in. Found out about it while looking for the straps and they were wet. Wipped the area dry to prevent mold from growing. As a quick remedy, ran to Walmart and bought some disecant. I might drill some holes to allow air circulation. Is on an area that looks like an enclosed box. No warm air can get in and circulate.
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnP View Post
Just noticed some important. The lower side (floor) on front wall where the Murphy Bed hides. There is no air circulation and condesation sets in. Found out about it while looking for the straps and they were wet. Wipped the area dry to prevent mold from growing. As a quick remedy, ran to Walmart and bought some disecant. I might drill some holes to allow air circulation. Is on an area that looks like an enclosed box. No warm air can get in and circulate.
It sounds like from a previous post that the trailer got pretty toasty. I personally wouldn't drill holes. It isn't uncommon for trailers to get condensation on various walls when the conditions are right and it is closed. Perhaps open a vent instead. Another alternative to drilling holes, you could add some form of insulation on the backside of that compartment so that wall doesn't get as cold.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:50 PM   #25
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Is kind of hard to describe but will try. When the bed is propped up, the head part falls in a "box/enclosure" about a foot tall. I believe is to prevent stuff hiting the matress; is just an empty cavity when the bed is open. Since there is no air circulation, that pocket gets pretty cold. What I was thinking, drill holes to allow some warm air to circulate. Another option is, to cut an opening and install a vent grill.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:54 PM   #26
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Is kind of hard to describe but will try. When the bed is propped up, the head part falls in a "box/enclosure" about a foot tall. I believe is to prevent stuff hiting the matress; is just an empty cavity when the bed is open. Since there is no air circulation, that pocket gets pretty cold. What I was thinking was, drill holes to allow some warm air to circulate. Another option is, to cut an opening and install a vent grill.
Got it!
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:37 PM   #27
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StateParked, I am very happy with the result of installing the extra outlet. I looked at pictures of 2306 campers, (very nice congrats) and I think I would put my extra outlet on the side wall of the cabinet next to the stove. Before you decide where to put an extra outlet in your unit, might I suggest that you buy the electric heater that will be used and try it in different places. Once you find out where it will work best for you and your family, then put the new outlet in a location where the heater cord can be plugged into it without using an extension cord. One thing to watch out for is that the side walls have studs made into them. I avoided this problem by putting the pass through plug in line vertically, with the anti- freeze port. That way I was sure to miss any stud with the hole saw. Jay
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:07 PM   #28
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We love our 2306. Heading out for 10 days in 9 days. Anyway, shouldn't be any studs. It's laminated construction.
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:11 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by KnP View Post
Is kind of hard to describe but will try. When the bed is propped up, the head part falls in a "box/enclosure" about a foot tall. I believe is to prevent stuff hiting the matress; is just an empty cavity when the bed is open. Since there is no air circulation, that pocket gets pretty cold. What I was thinking, drill holes to allow some warm air to circulate. Another option is, to cut an opening and install a vent grill.
When you open your side storage compartments, the thin wall you see (red arrow below) is the "side" of the box/enclosure.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4784 #2.jpg
Views:	69
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ID:	131909

(This pic is of a 2503S, but all the Murphy Bed Mini/Micro-Lites are similar.)

Another Mini Lite owner reported that he cut an opening in this wall so he can get in and clean it out easier (and one person suggested easier to get cats out of the space, if necessary!). He made his so it's normally there, but he can open it up. Not sure if he used hinges or what; he didn't really say.

You COULD simply cut a round hole and put a small computer fan in it to keep air circulating.

I think to get in there and do a good job of insulating would require that you remove the bed.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:14 AM   #30
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bed enclosure

Our bed frame supports the bed obviously but it also houses the fresh water tank and water pump. One of the walls of the enclosure borders an outside storage area like the picture. I worried about condensation and a frozen water pump so I bought a roll of 1-1/2" fiberglass insulation and installed it in the cavity of the wall and covered the insulation with 1/4" luan plywood. I also drilled three, 3 inch holes on two of the other walls on the inside and installed 3 inch port vents in each of the holes. The vents are in walls opposite each other so heated air can circulate through the space. The vents are painted to match the interior finish.
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:03 PM   #31
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The other night, got to 25F. My biggest worry was the tanks to freeze. Took a leap of faith and filled the fresh water tank to about 2/3, just to use the toilet and some running water. Also, turned the tank heating pads. Well... forgot to drain the water hose and the inline filter froze, glad that I have a spare one. Anyway, none of the tanks froze, amazing though. The pump area, left the inside doors cracked open. The compartment stayed cool but not freezing cold; no incidents so far. The humidity issue, left open the roof vents, about 1/4. This morning the compartment was cold but dry, my humidity indicator was at 23% instead of 37%+. That helped a lot and the inside a nice 72F. Temps stayed nicely with the 1,500W space heater.
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:07 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
When you open your side storage compartments, the thin wall you see (red arrow below) is the "side" of the box/enclosure.

Attachment 131909

(This pic is of a 2503S, but all the Murphy Bed Mini/Micro-Lites are similar.)

Another Mini Lite owner reported that he cut an opening in this wall so he can get in and clean it out easier (and one person suggested easier to get cats out of the space, if necessary!). He made his so it's normally there, but he can open it up. Not sure if he used hinges or what; he didn't really say.

You COULD simply cut a round hole and put a small computer fan in it to keep air circulating.

I think to get in there and do a good job of insulating would require that you remove the bed.
Is my next step to increase some air circulation. Thought about using some PC fans but I think some openings will be enough
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Old 03-23-2017, 12:13 PM   #33
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When the Murphy bed is in the closed position, it can't be using much of this space. I wonder about opening it up to use for storage. And yes, if camping in cold weather with heater on it will get lots of condensation down in there!
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Old 03-23-2017, 01:20 PM   #34
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When the Murphy bed is in the closed position, it can't be using much of this space. I wonder about opening it up to use for storage. And yes, if camping in cold weather with heater on it will get lots of condensation down in there!
The problem is that the bed "sweeps" most of the area when it's opened and closed. So if you wanted to use it for storage while closed, you'd have to remove the stuff before opening the bed.
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Old 03-23-2017, 02:09 PM   #35
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Yes, after looking closer and using a tape measure, I suppose most of that area is occupied when the bed is closed. I was hoping for a small place to slide a couple of fishing poles! ; )
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