Problem changing anode rod

[RandK-M]

Between aluminum or magnesium anode rods, is one preferable to the other? I normally replace mine every spring since catching sales on Amazon for two packs makes them less than $10. I've been using magnesium rods, but I also see aluminum ones available.



Ray

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Some people have never figured out that dope or tape are only needed for tapered pipe threads. I've seen attempts to use it on flare fittings and compression fittings. Even once on a 1-1/4" J drain fitting that had those nylon compression rings. I admit that I've never seen anyone try to use dope or tape on a Union nut.

Larry

I am not a plumber or pipe fitter. I do know some about pipe and fittings. The thread paste and tapes are made to lubricate the threads and fill inconsistencies from threads to fitting.

I will try and look it up.

[Iwannacamp]

Here is one reference...if you care to read.

https://bluemonsterproducts.com/ptfe...ad-tapes.shtml

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

That is some what true. I would not wait quite that long, but as long as there is some material on it it is working. No need to change it every year.

No later than 25% remaining in this photo:

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by KyDan

Oatey Great White pipe dope with teflon is not old school. Available at Home Debit and Lowes and elsewhere. I also use it on my anode threads. On my previous trailer the tank threads tended to rust badly over the winter if I left the anode out. If they had a decent coat of Oatey Great White pipe dope they survived the winter in better shape.
My current rig has an aluminum tank and a plastic drain plug and I still use a tiny bit of Oatey on the plug.

I agree; The fittings are NPT (National Pipe Thread) and tapered. Some Teflon tape or Teflon pipe dope is required for a water tight seal and ease of removal.

[aircommuter]

Saying that soft water is a water heaters worst enemy is an overstatement. First if the softener rinse cycle is correctly set there won’t be anymore sodium in the water than what is supplied by the source. If one checks the anode regularly they will soon learn the deterioration rate and replace as necessary. Third one is better off replacing a water heater than replacing the plumbing.
One can simply use their ohm meter to check the continuity between the anode and the tank. Continuity can be a problem like it is on automotive senders. As others have shown products are available for correction if needed.
Just to educate those who think that flare fittings don’t need a sealant perhaps they should read about Nylog, for refrigeration such as R410 used in split systems.

[onetonford]

When I changed out my water heater because I changed from propane to natural gas. I checked out the old one which was 25 years old and was on a softener for its life after checking it out with a bore cam saw no rust or any buildup in the tank still looked new being that it still was working I put it on craigslist and ended up giving it to a couple who couldn't afford a new one in their mobile home since their old one had died. they have now been using it for almost five years now with no problem. I pretty sure it was because of using the soft water had made It last longer than not.

[Bilcin]

Originally Posted by stealth2715

I have a water faucet at my water softener that i can fill the rv from. Softened water will be a lot less damaging to the anode rod and WH. I also had a clogged toilet valve from the whitish crud that was from the corroded anode from the amount of time that the dealer had the trailer and filled the tank. About half the rod was gone. Flushed the valve and cleaned the tank. I dont know how that crud got in there but it was same stuff that came from water heater cleaning.

Does your toilet use hot water???? I was under the impression that the toilet was on the cold water line only. Am I wrong, and your toilet flushes with hot water?

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by Bilcin

Does your toilet use hot water???? I was under the impression that the toilet was on the cold water line only. Am I wrong, and your toilet flushes with hot water?

If you don't rinse the crud completely from the tank and fill it and release the air from the system using the cold water valves it can draw that stuff into the cold water lines which in turn can get into your toilet and other cold water valves.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Bilcin

Does your toilet use hot water???? I was under the impression that the toilet was on the cold water line only. Am I wrong, and your toilet flushes with hot water?

Originally Posted by onetonford

If you don't rinse the crud completely from the tank and fill it and release the air from the system using the cold water valves it can draw that stuff into the cold water lines which in turn can get into your toilet and other cold water valves.

ALSO - if you don't isolate your WH before you open your low-point drains, you will pull water and crud backwards out of your WH into your cold water supply line. Then the next time you fill and use your plumbing, the crap will get into the cold water line to the toilet.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

ALSO - if you don't isolate your WH before you open your low-point drains, you will pull water and crud backwards out of your WH into your cold water supply line. Then the next time you fill and use your plumbing, the crap will get into the cold water line to the toilet.

Thanks I knew I forgot that one I'm just getting old I guess.

[stealth2715]

Thanks for replies about water softeners and worst enemy... It is my understanding that the more minerals in the water typically the more conductive it is so why wouldn't soft water be less conductive? Anyways My Kinetico system does a fine job of regenerating without over salting like a timer based system could. And i just like drinking and using my soft water too much to leave home without it. I will keep an eye on the anode and replace at whatever rate the system demands.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

This only says that soft water will cause the anode to deteriorate faster. For home WH's, this is probably an issue, because most of us never, ever do anything with our home WH's. (I know I don't.)

But I think a majority of us RV'ers (on this forum, at least), drain our WH's - and thereby check our anodes - at least yearly. Some people say they do it after every trip.

I agree that most RVers with Suburban water heaters probably do regularly change-out their anode rods, which will help to mitigate the damage of soft water. However, the anode is not 100% proficient at protecting the tank; especially at welds, such as where the taps are for the hot and cold water, the anode rod, the element, the T&P valve, etc. Every water heater that I have replaced and cut open to find out where it was leaking was due to a leak at a weld.

In my post I said “I will provide you with a link to an A.O. Smith Technical Service Bulletin that you can use as a “starter” for your research into why soft water is bad for water heaters.” This is just one well-known, easy-to-understand technical bulletin put out by A.O. Smith a long time ago. I provided it as a starting point for anybody interested in researching this topic further. It does not get into all of the bad things that soft water can do to a water heater — it concentrates mostly on the anode, which is why I referenced it here, since we are talking about anodes and then water softeners were mentioned.

I’m just trying to help.

Bruce

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by RandK-M

Between aluminum or magnesium anode rods, is one preferable to the other? I normally replace mine every spring since catching sales on Amazon for two packs makes them less than $10. I've been using magnesium rods, but I also see aluminum ones available.
Ray

It seemed to me the magnesium rods deteriorated faster than the aluminum one so I figured it was doing a better job of protecting my tank.

[Larry-NC]

agnes

Originally Posted by KyDan

It seemed to me the magnesium rods deteriorated faster than the aluminum one so I figured it was doing a better job of protecting my tank.

Magnesium is more active than aluminum, so it would do a better job of protecting the tank. But if you had water that was so bad that the magnesium rod was consumed in a couple of months, you might go with an aluminum rod that would last a season, at the expense of shortening the life of the WH tank.

Larry

[Bilcin]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

ALSO - if you don't isolate your WH before you open your low-point drains, you will pull water and crud backwards out of your WH into your cold water supply line. Then the next time you fill and use your plumbing, the crap will get into the cold water line to the toilet.

Thank you for the reply, I had no idea that could happen. I have always emptied and bypassed the HW before winterizing the remainder of the lines.