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Old 10-18-2017, 11:10 PM   #1
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Questions about 12v power and Rockwoods.

Which of the following run off of 12volt power. We boondock a lot and are seldom plugged into shore power.

MaxxAir Vents
TV
Stereo/CD player.

Our current trailer has a 12v TV and makes it really convenient to watch movies not plugged in.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:59 PM   #2
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tv probably is 110v AC, the others are 12v DC.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:06 AM   #3
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110V outlets and AC don't work when not plugged into shore power. That's all you need to know.

But if you "boondock a lot" like you said, wouldn't you know this already?

Have you ever gone thru your TT thoroughly? I have. Lifted all panels, opened every cubby that was screwed shut just so I know what is in there. Took pics for reference.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:18 AM   #4
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I get the impression OP is considering new trailer.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:14 AM   #5
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Yes, I am looking to buy a new Rockwood and was questioning what they run off of 12volt. I fully understand what works and doesn't work when not plugged in. I have never had a MaxxAir vent so I don't know if they are 12v or not. The TV in my current trailer is a 12volt TV, not very common so I was asking if Rockwoods TV ran on 12v. i assume the stereo would be 12volt, but wanted to make sure.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:39 AM   #6
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12 Volt TV

My new Forest River....Flagstaff E Pro came with 12 volt TV.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lundy View Post
The TV in my current trailer is a 12volt TV, not very common so I was asking if Rockwoods TV ran on 12v. i assume the stereo would be 12volt, but wanted to make sure.
You may want to take that 12 volt television out of the old trailer and keep it for the new one.

What model Rockwood are you looking at, as they are not all made with the same options?
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joindy View Post
My new Forest River....Flagstaff E Pro came with 12 volt TV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
You may want to take that 12 volt television out of the old trailer and keep it for the new one.

What model Rockwood are you looking at, as they are not all made with the same options?
As mentioned... not every model is the same.
My FR Flagstaff (Rockwood sister) came with 120v TV's.
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:20 AM   #9
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Trying to decide between the 2604WS and the 2606Ws. I was thinking about taking the TV out of my trailer before I sell it, that is why I was asking the questions. Thanks for the replies.
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:29 AM   #10
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On my Mimi 2506S The MaxxAir vent fan is 12V as it runs off of the light switch in the bathroom. The radio is 12V but TV plugs into common wall 110 outlet. All lights are 12V. We have two USB ports that are 12V that we use to recharge phones ext. Keep that TV! Hope this helps. Richard
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:33 PM   #11
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I have the 2017 Flagstaff 26RBWS that is the same as Rockwood 2606ws. The tv in mine is 120 vac. The maxair fan and stereo is 12vdc. Happy camping.
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Old 10-19-2017, 04:52 PM   #12
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The Furrion TV that came with my 2018 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2604WS is AC. Everything else is 12v DC.
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Old 10-25-2017, 10:34 PM   #13
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While it's probably not efficient an small inverter would address the 110v AC TV issue. There's a 12v outlet right behind the TV on my trailer.

If you're dry camping be aware that the stereo is a parasite drain on your battery. Consider putting a switch inline. You lose your presets but won't lose your battery.
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Old 10-26-2017, 08:47 AM   #14
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I had a Roo 23IKSS and now I have an ultralight 2909WS and in both the TV only works when connected to 110V shore power.
If you boondock a lot, you should get a charger/inverter like the below and install it in your trailer.
It will charge the batteries better than the original charger and it will handle the 110V from the batteries automatically.
The 1800W version have the capability to run the Microwave too but you will need a huge battery bank to do that.
Inverter Charger | Freedom HF Inverter/Charger | Xantrex
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:54 AM   #15
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Lundy: Be aware that most Dometic fridges have a "climate control" circuit that consists of a small heater near the door. It's supposed to reduce condensation at the door.

This heater pulls about 0.5 amps. To know if the fridge in the TT you're looking at has it, open the outside access panel and look at the wiring diagram on the back of the fridge. If you have it, it will be a squiggle in parallel with the door light and switch. See the red ovals in the pic of mine below:
Click image for larger version

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Older models had a switch under the control panel as shown below to let you turn the heater off, but newer ones don't seem to have it.

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(One exception: The NDM1062 model still has the switch, but it's on the front of the control panel.)

Since you most likely will end up with a Dometic fridge with the heater, I've attached a mod that will remove the power to the heater while keeping the inside light working. Many boondockers have done some version of this mod. If you don't care about the light, just pull the wire off pin J2.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Refer door heater switch mod.pdf (345.8 KB, 48 views)
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:02 AM   #16
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Thanks for all of the replies, they have been very helpful. I probably should have mentioned that I have 400 watts of solar and a Champion 3400 watt gen so I don't have an issue with the batteries when I boondock.
Thanks again great forum help here.
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