Rockwood 190W Solar + 1000W Inverter Option?

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by rvflyer57

Thank you for catching that. Typo on my part. Per the panel the lowest It showed was just over 60%/12 volts.

12.0V is about 45%.

[RedRoverComeOver]

Originally Posted by Sid_the_Cat

How many total AH do you between your two batteries? I’m assuming you have the 190v solar right? Great write up. Thank you.

Doesn't have an Ah rating but is 550 CCA. Depends on how you do your math but could be 192-308 which would take it down to 20% capacity. And have two batteries with the Geo Pro G16BH.

Honestly, if I run it dead it's no big deal since I could manually get the slide/awning in and retract the jack. I may have enough juice from hooking up my Jeep to do that but would have to test to see if it works. If I get at least 4 seasons out of them then it was a good experiment and nobody died. It's not doom and gloom like some make it out to be.

We can still eat non-perishable foods we have more of and cook with propane. Drink water (not from camper tank) and wine that aren't refrigerated anyway. Use lamps/headlamps/flashlights when night falls and when needed inside. Can wash dishes/clean up with additional water we carry and use that for toilet flushing. Could always siphon water from the fresh water tank if needed. Baby wipes are great to have for freshening up too. We still use sleeping bags and sleeping inside the RV is much warmer than sleeping in tents; we're not going to freeze. And we're not going to melt either if it gets too hot. I have external battery power that can be charged with solar panels and could use to run fan. Never used any fans while tent camping, even on the beaches but picked up a couple different models since we're upping the game some.

This wasn't ranting, just my realistic outlook.

[mac1_131]

Originally Posted by Vinni

1 ordered a new 2021 RockWood ultra lite 2882s with 190 watt solar/inverter option. This is what I received. One solar panel with Go power controller matched to a WFCO inverter. The factory chose to leave out cable from inverter to controller. The reason being that the controller is not compatible with WFCO inverter. This is because of interface problems. Mismatched components don’t function correctly together when they are combined in a system. Now the A/C button on controller will not function inverter unless you go out on your own and purchase on from Go Power and install it on your own. They said this is what you get. We are not talking any responsibility for button not working or providing remote switch for inverter. They said I have to exit coach and go to traffic side compartment and turn off or on inverter as needed.

Vinnie,

The solar is just meant to charge the batteries and has nothing to do with the inverter.

The AC button interfaces with Go Power branded inverters, and forest river uses WFCO inverters.

All of ours are this way, so you really are not missing any functionality. You just have to use the button on the inverter or it's remote panel (if you got one) to turn it on and off.

Nothing really wrong here... the AC button is an optional feature.

My dealer gave two batteries because we had solar.

[Vinni]

Easy for you to say. I believe i ordered a complete package that should interface correctly with all the components compiled together by factory as a complete system. This is not the case. This is a hodgepodge of components that doesn’t function per either units manuals. Are you a electrical engineer??

[Vinni]

There is no other remote control. The factory didn’t install one.

[18LT]

The WFCO remote switch is inexpensive and easy to install. Yes, I understand that you feel you should have gotten a manufacturer- specific system, but that’s what we all got with the basic 190-watt solar charge system/ inverter.
My remote switch is such a PITA that I unplugged it from the inverter and I use the on-off switch on the face of the inverter.
I upgraded my Go Power solar charge controller with an MPPT controller (doubling my solar panels’ output) so the Go Power scc is just filling the hole until I make a panel to hold the battery state of charge meter.

[Richard Dietzen]

Originally Posted by 18LT

The WFCO remote switch is inexpensive and easy to install. Yes, I understand that you feel you should have gotten a manufacturer- specific system, but that’s what we all got with the basic 190-watt solar charge system/ inverter.
My remote switch is such a PITA that I unplugged it from the inverter and I use the on-off switch on the face of the inverter.
I upgraded my Go Power solar charge controller with an MPPT controller (doubling my solar panels’ output) so the Go Power scc is just filling the hole until I make a panel to hold the battery state of charge meter.

I have read this thread and need your expertise since I’m trying to figure out why my Furrion TV on the new 2022 2205s with two factory panels is not getting power from its labeled inverter outlet during solar charge with a ‘100%’ full battery. DC lights, fridge, and sound system were working. Inverter switch by the bed is on/green, but also does not turn off.
You mentioned above that the WAFCO inverter is just a ‘pass-through’ type, but should it not be able to take 12-13V from a flooded battery and run the TV? No indicator light or response to the power button or the remote. Tech at dealer first claimed the TV was only powered by shore cable, but admitted they should look at it before the frost.

Surely the inverter should run the 110V TV from battery? Do I need to physically access the inverter behind the pass through wall?
Apparently the GeoPro has a 110/12V TV, but Mini-lites are 110 only.

[18LT]

Originally Posted by Richard Dietzen

I have read this thread and need your expertise since I’m trying to figure out why my Furrion TV on the new 2022 2205s with two factory panels is not getting power from its labeled inverter outlet during solar charge with a ‘100%’ full battery. DC lights, fridge, and sound system were working. Inverter switch by the bed is on/green, but also does not turn off.
You mentioned above that the WAFCO inverter is just a ‘pass-through’ type, but should it not be able to take 12-13V from a flooded battery and run the TV? No indicator light or response to the power button or the remote. Tech at dealer first claimed the TV was only powered by shore cable, but admitted they should look at it before the frost.

Surely the inverter should run the 110V TV from battery? Do I need to physically access the inverter behind the pass through wall?
Apparently the GeoPro has a 110/12V TV, but Mini-lites are 110 only.

I’ll be happy to help you work through this tomorrow morning. Please be patient as I’ve had a couple of health related tough days but hey, tomorrow’s a brand new day, right?
My 2021 2205S is still in my driveway so we can figure out what’s going on with yours.
I’d prefer to switch this to private messages, if that’s ok with you. Send me a pm and I’ll reply in the morning.
Trust me, we’ll get this handled quickly.
As for right now, and assuming your '22 is the same as my '21, the 120-volt outlet behind the tv (not the outlet around the corner on the galley wall) is supposed to be connected to the inverter, as are the two outlets on either side of the bed, the outlets in the slideout and the wall outlet below the thermostat. Those outlets are powered by the inverter's pass through circuit when the camper is on shore power. So, if the tv's outlet isn't being powered from the inverter when the camper is NOT on shorepower, none of those outlets should work either, assuming the inverter is on and displays AC voltage on it's front display (which you can't see with the pass thru compartment paneling in place).
Yes, you may need to access the inverter by removing some of the screws holding the paneling that's concealing the inverter. Not a big job, and you don't need to remove the entire piece, assuming yours is one piece of paneling as mine was.
Accessing the inverter will allow us to quickly check a few things on the inverter and the remote switch.
That's all for now.

[Richard Dietzen]

Originally Posted by 18LT

I’ll be happy to help you work through this tomorrow morning. Please be patient as I’ve had a couple of health related tough days but hey, tomorrow’s a brand new day, right?
My 2021 2205S is still in my driveway so we can figure out what’s going on with yours.
I’d prefer to switch this to private messages, if that’s ok with you. Send me a pm and I’ll reply in the morning.
Trust me, we’ll get this handled quickly.
As for right now, and assuming your '22 is the same as my '21, the 120-volt outlet behind the tv (not the outlet around the corner on the galley wall) is supposed to be connected to the inverter, as are the two outlets on either side of the bed, the outlets in the slideout and the wall outlet below the thermostat. Those outlets are powered by the inverter's pass through circuit when the camper is on shore power. So, if the tv's outlet isn't being powered from the inverter when the camper is NOT on shorepower, none of those outlets should work either, assuming the inverter is on and displays AC voltage on it's front display (which you can't see with the pass thru compartment paneling in place).
Yes, you may need to access the inverter by removing some of the screws holding the paneling that's concealing the inverter. Not a big job, and you don't need to remove the entire piece, assuming yours is one piece of paneling as mine was.
Accessing the inverter will allow us to quickly check a few things on the inverter and the remote switch.
That's all for now.

Hopefully you’ve gotten the two messages that I sent this morning and thank you for the patient discussion. Since around 13.6 to 13.8 V are getting into the inverter inputs from the battery and the 12 V lights, stereo, water pump and even the green light on the inverter switch are active in the camper, I think the inverter is internally bad. In fact the inverter switch in the camper although green, seems to do nothing and the power switch on the inverter does nothing after the 16 amp breaker on the back of the inverter is toggled. Randy at the Razorback camper sales in Hot Springs, AR, who is the tech that did the walk-through, told me that the system was checked with 110 power through the cable but not checked with the inverter “we don’t do that“. Now I’m going to have to make a appointment to bring this new camper back up there about 90 miles each way to their service people.
(Edit: there is no power at any of the outlets labeled “inverter” either, unless I’m plugged in to 110.)
My last couple of private messages seem to be having trouble staying under the 5000 character limit. Sorry I’ve been long-winded.

[Adirondack_Camper]

I just got my 2022 Ultra Lite 2706ws a few weeks ago with 2 solar panels and I installed 2 Lion Energy Lithium batteries and my TV doesn't work when the inverter is on either. All the other outlets work with the inverter, I even plugged my percolator coffee maker in one of the inverter outlets and made coffee. I'd like to fix the TV outlet to work with the inverter. I could run an extension cord but I shouldn't have to.
Any help you guys could give me would be great.

[Richard Dietzen]

Originally Posted by Adirondack_Camper

I just got my 2022 Ultra Lite 2706ws a few weeks ago with 2 solar panels and I installed 2 Lion Energy Lithium batteries and my TV doesn't work when the inverter is on either. All the other outlets work with the inverter, I even plugged my percolator coffee maker in one of the inverter outlets and made coffee. I'd like to fix the TV outlet to work with the inverter. I could run an extension cord but I shouldn't have to.
Any help you guys could give me would be great.

Make sure that you are on 12V only and having issues with only the outlets labeled ‘inverter’.

I read through the AFCO inverter manual, with encouragement by 18LT (Hope you’re better) to access the inverter by loosening at least 4 screws on the back panel on the driver’s side, so you can gently pull this panel forward to see the inverter and access the inputs on the back of it . Use a mirror or selfie pics with your phone to focus a good look at the back of the inverter. (I checked that the battery switch position was ‘on’ under the tongue first, per 18LT.)
Following the first part of flow-sheet instructions on checking voltage to an inverter that didn’t turn on (blank display) the leads checked ok at >= 13.6V at the terminals as well as across the battery leads. So, I thought it could be a bad inverter as above. But, the troubleshooting section in the manual advised me to disconnect the 2 gauge +and - leads from the back of the inverter. (I made sure the front inverter switch button was ‘in’ before this to disconnect the green lighted switch inside the trailer at drivers side of bed.) Unscrew the recessed nuts with a small hex/Allen wrench before you tug the leads out of the inverter. Manual said leave them out 5 minutes to let inverter ‘reset’.
It worked. I saw inverter come on and power the TV (red power light on) when I went inside to turn TV on.

If the inverter outlets were not working before, and do come on after reconnecting to the battery, with the front panel of the inverter display now active and showing the battery input voltage, you have fixed it.
If the inverter plugs, lights et c work off your 110 input, but the TV has no light or still won’t come on, maybe it’s the TV or its specific inverter outlet that has a problem, IMO.
If you guys want to add or correct anything I wrote, please chime in.
Be sure to read the inverter manual before trying anything.
I don’t think my green-lit remote inverter switch next to the bed works.

[61Tele]

Originally Posted by Vinni

I believe i ordered a complete package that should interface correctly with all the components compiled together by factory as a complete system. This is not the case. This is a hodgepodge of components that doesn’t function per either units manuals.

Personally I would expect nothing less than a hodpodge, and that's not directed at Forest River or Forest River brands, but the entire RV Industry in general. There is a thread on these boards right now where a $200K Isata class C left the factory with one of its solar panels partially covered by the factory installed vent cover, and the wiring on the roof itself from panel to panel looks like it was installed by my 6 yr old granddaughter. How something like that leaves the 20000 square feet of quality assurance building leaves me scratching my head.

Ive been seriously considering downsizing from our current 2904WS to a 2414 or 2608. I think I've talked myself out of it mostly due to the current market conditions which will most likely not change. I might be better off keeping what I have where I know what I have, the only major problem was when the entire face of the wardrobe slide decided it did not want to be attached to the slide any longer, and sent itself to the floor.

That solar option is not an option but falls under the "Standard Package F (Mandatory)" option. That's an oxymoron, mandatory option lol, and I highly doubt on a factory order you can eliminate it. I learned the hard way 3 rigs ago that anything branded "WFCO" is cheap junk. On the current Rockwood, and a previous Keystone trailer, the WFCO converter was swapped out before either ever seen the first campground, I find it hard to believe a WFCO inverter is a high quality piece of electronics either.

I digress. It always comes back to "However, during the model year, it may be necessary to make revisions and Forest River, Inc. reserves the right to make changes without notice, including prices, colors, materials, equipment and specifications"so you never know what you're getting unless you're buying a unit from dealer stock you can actually lay your hands on.

[18LT]

This is just my opinion (which means it’s not worth a plug nickel) but I think the WFCO 1000-watt inverter is a pretty decent little device. Mine performs well and is able to carry a full load without any hiccups. Mine has only been powered by lithium batteries so I can’t say how well it might work on lead acid chemistry.
The only thing I don’t care for is the remote switch.
My WFCO CONverter, though, doesn’t impress me very much, maybe because it’s mounted at the back end of the camper while the battery is in the front. With 25 feet of 8 awg wire between the two (50 feet if you consider the round trip), there’s no way the converter is going reach a 55 amp output. Again, that’s my opinion.

[18LT]

Originally Posted by Richard Dietzen

I read through the AFCO inverter manual, with encouragement by 18LT (Hope you’re better)

Thanks. It’s a day-to-day thing. Today I’m not better. Blood work is scheduled so that hopefully that will show something. I’m pretty certain a new stress echo is in my immediate future too. Getting old is certainly not for wussies.
I can send a pm if you’d like to hear more. But if not, I completely understand. Retirement is about fun stuff, not same-O, same-O.
By the way, I hope I was of some help, although it sounds like you got it handled quite nicely by yourself. Now you’re more informed than 99% of the dealer service personnel all over America.

[Tyler-98-W68]

Originally Posted by 18LT

This is just my opinion (which means it’s not worth a plug nickel) but I think the WFCO 1000-watt inverter is a pretty decent little device. Mine performs well and is able to carry a full load without any hiccups. Mine has only been powered by lithium batteries so I can’t say how well it might work on lead acid chemistry.
The only thing I don’t care for is the remote switch.
My WFCO CONverter, though, doesn’t impress me very much, maybe because it’s mounted at the back end of the camper while the battery is in the front. With 25 feet of 8 awg wire between the two (50 feet if you consider the round trip), there’s no way the converter is going reach a 55 amp output. Again, that’s my opinion.

My 8735 in my 2021 Geo Pro 19BH will feed 35 amps into my lithium battery on the nose without any issues. It's probably capable of more.

[18LT]

My biggest concern is voltage drop at the Lippert OneControl when the camper is not on shore power. With the 12-volt refrigerator’s compressor running and with ceiling lights on, moving the slide or awning will drop the voltage on the OneControl phone app as low as 11.86 volts, while voltage at the 300 ah lifepo4 battery’s shunt is 13.22 volts. I verified the app reading at the OneControl with a volt-ohm meter.
I planned on having that issue resolved by now but health issues limit my ability to deal with projects of this magnitude, which entails dropping the belly shield, pulling two 2awg welding cables from the pass-through compartment to the converter, and from the converter forward and up to the microwave, where the OneControl is located on the 2205S.
Given my physical limitations, that’s a project for next spring, at which time I’ll probably have to pay a friend of mine to do it. Unless I’m pushing up daisies and dandelions.

[W5CRE]

Originally Posted by mrmerced

Hey Rob...

A couple things just came:
1) I just took a look at my rooftop panel...it was FILTHY! Stupid me. When I picked it up form the dealership, I just assumed they had cleaned it. Tomorrow I'll see how much difference that makes.
2) I just spoke with Go Power (very easy to reach). If you have that Go Power connector on the side, to use it you'll need to add an external controller apart from the one Rockwood supplied It doesn't matter inside your trailer. I'm just going to plug in with my Renogy stuff from my last trailer.

You'll also likely need to reverse the polarity of the connector. The catch is that ZAMP connectors have reversed polarity. The good news is that all you have to do is to reverse the polarity back. What you need to do first is test the polarity on the trailer to determine which pin is positive and which pin is negative. You can purchase an adapter to do this.

[midntrdr]

Originally Posted by Adirondack_Camper

I just got my 2022 Ultra Lite 2706ws a few weeks ago with 2 solar panels and I installed 2 Lion Energy Lithium batteries and my TV doesn't work when the inverter is on either. All the other outlets work with the inverter, I even plugged my percolator coffee maker in one of the inverter outlets and made coffee. I'd like to fix the TV outlet to work with the inverter. I could run an extension cord but I shouldn't have to.
Any help you guys could give me would be great.

Did you get 2 go power panels from the factory? Can you post a pic? I’m going to add another panel to my 2706 and I’m curious where the factory would put one. Thanks.

[Adirondack_Camper]

Originally Posted by midntrdr

Did you get 2 go power panels from the factory? Can you post a pic? I’m going to add another panel to my 2706 and I’m curious where the factory would put one. Thanks.

I have one go power control panel and its mounted on the bathroom wall where the recliners are. I will try to find a picture.

[midntrdr]

Originally Posted by Adirondack_Camper

I have one go power control panel and its mounted on the bathroom wall where the recliners are. I will try to find a picture.

Sorry, I meant the rooftop panels.