Rockwood 2015 8289WS bathroom furnace vent too hot

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by hitch hiker

has anyone used the belly locker ducting and put it into the kitchen?
we have blocked the one on the stairs,and 3/4 blocked the one in the bathroom,
but getting it to the kitchen seems a good plan.
ali

The OP needs to buy a damper for that line to the bathroom and install it at the plenum. If it is at a wye branch install it there. My 2012 dosen't even have a vent in the bathroom. Consider yourself lucky and that is an easy fix....

[OldCoot]

We didn't have a bathroom vent, so I took the basement vent hose and covered the space between the bedroom/bathroom alum floor joists with alum sheeting and sealed it and put the hose vent into it and then cut a hole in the bathroom floor and installed a 2"x10" adjustable vent in it. Also cut a hole in the alum sheeting and put an adjustable cover on it to make it possible to put air into the basement. We've had no problems whatsoever with the circulation of heat in our 5er. Put 2"x10" adjustable vents in all the floor registers and use the furnace blower (without the burner going) to circulate the heat from our Eden Pure electric heater.

[Witch Doctor]

Your just a smart ole man, but you did that when you just a young buck
But great idea, your brain never rest.

[PhoneDude 8289]

Originally Posted by grandpa001

When using the furnace, set at 70, the bathroom floor vent is too hot to stand near it. it's right in front on the vanity so you can't avoid it. I had the dealer look at it, they told me that's the way it is by design. They replaced the floor vent with an adjustable louvre type but it didn't help, still very hot.
My thought was that the furnace fan is not blowing enough air so the output temp is too high but not enough to affect the function of the furnace. The dealer said it was working properly. I'm not buying it. My old Wildcat would blow air like crazy.
Is anyone else having this problem?

When we first got our 8289 the heating with the furnace was horrible, way too hot in the bathroom and hall, too cold in the living area. I pulled the panel in the basement, found 4 - 4" taps of the plenum. 4" to the bathroom, 4" to the hall where the thermostats are and 2 - 4" runs to the living area with one of the runs with a 1-1/2" tap for the underbelly storage. Both flex ducts going to the living area were wadded and crushed behind the plenum and the flex connected to the plenum was bent at 90% and crushed more than half. I replaced the four flex taps with 4" aluminum 90º ells. Installed 4" X 2" reducers on the bath and hall runs and removed over 12' or flex from the living area runs stretching the runs out (not tight) so it was a smooth run from the plenum. The unit heats way more even now, we are happy with it. Most of the time we use the fireplace and a small fan to break the chill. There are some pictures of some of the heating system work in my albums.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

Your just a smart ole man, but you did that when you just a young buck
But great idea, your brain never rest.

Good thing I did it 4 yrs ago when I was 72, too lazy to do it now.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Good thing I did it 4 yrs ago when I was 72, too lazy to do it now.

That's true but explain how you added a switch to turn your furnace blower on without the furnace running, that is the secret...

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

That's true but explain how you added a switch to turn your furnace blower on without the furnace running, that is the secret...

Had to pull the furnace out and put a 12v source with a switch on it to the fan. Not very technical, but it is a PITA getting the gas line loose and the furnace pulled out of the cabinet. Not much room to work. I think it took me the better part of a day. I put the switch under the counter top next to the frig.

[B and B]

My trailer does not have the bath vent. I re plumbed the pipes so the basement is at the side of the tee. Both rear vents are plumbed directly. Removed 4 of excess duct on one. The rebalance see to work better.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by B and B

My trailer does not have the bath vent. I re plumbed the pipes so the basement is at the side of the tee. Both rear vents are plumbed directly. Removed 4 of excess duct on one. The rebalance see to work better.

Easy to add a floor vent to your bathroom and re-route the ductwork.

[hitch hiker]

We have done the modification of moving the heater hose from the stairwell
In the corner cupboard opposite the entry door remove the sub woofer
In belly locker disconnect the silver heater hose, and plastic vent, block off hole.
On stairwell disconnect pipe work and remove metal work that goes into belly locker. Seal remaining hole.
Drill 4 1/4inch hole in back of cupboard, and drill 4 1/4inch hole at bottom of front facia, between water pump cupboard and corner of unit, fit the black plastic vent, feed stairwell tubing through and fit to black plastic vent cover.
Took about 1 hour now have 3 vents into living area.
thanks for all the imformation
ali & steve

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by B and B

My trailer does not have the bath vent. I re plumbed the pipes so the basement is at the side of the tee. Both rear vents are plumbed directly. Removed 4 of excess duct on one. The rebalance see to work better.

My unit does not have one either and that's fine with me, last trailer or one of the last we had a vent in our Jayco next to the head, well I got up drunk and pissed in the vent instead of the head NOT GOOD..

[thilbish]

Hitchhiker...looks great.. can you post the steps to accomplish this?

[hitch hiker]

tools required
screwdriver/s electric drill, drill bits, hole cutter 4 1/4 inch if possible, if not small drill bits to drill a circle of holes for vent, then you would also need a small hacksaw blade to remove the circle of facia.

1.in belly locker remove panel to left that covers rear of stairs and water pump housing, this will expose all ducting.
2. remove heating vent from belly locker, [4 1/4 black plastic circle] and block off, we did'nt want heating in belly locker, save vent for later.
3. remove metal heater box left top of belly locker, a bit tricky, and ducting from stairwell, block off stair floor vent from belly locker, this is the heater hose you use, so only disconnect from stairwell vent.
4. in kitchen area - corner cupboard - remove sub woofer, if you have one.
5. in front facia between water pump cupboard and corner cupboard, drill 4 1/4 inch hole at bottom and fit vent removed from belly locker heater.
6. drill hole 4 1/4 in hole from belly locker to rear of corner cupboard, work out where to drill by tapping to make sure you have enough space.
7. thread stair well heating ducting through rear hole to front facia and fix to newly fitted vent
hope this explains, check on previous potos and it becomes a bit clearer
ali and steve

[thilbish]

Hithhiker

Thanks for posting. Your instructions are very clear and easy to follow.

Just a couple of questions.

1. Does removing the stair well ducting leave enough heat for the bedroom?
2. Could the heater hose in the belly locker be re-routed instead?
3. How did you block off the heater hose in the belly?

Thanks for you help.

Tom

[hitch hiker]

hi

first, i should have said when you remove the metal work for the stairwell you have to remove the plastic grill on the stairwell floor, as this is screwed to it.

the belly locker hose is a smaller diameter, so not much air flow.

i bent/folded the belly locker hose, so air cant escape and screwed to floor.

the vent in the bathroom gives out a lot of heat, we blocked this off by half, and to have the air coming in from the stairwell you would have to have the bedroom door open, and we have it closed as it is too light to sleep with it open.

we travel between England and Spain so cold is not that much of an issue

hope this helps

[thilbish]

Thanks for all the help. I am going to give this a try. I had contacted Forest River factory and the only thing they agreed to do was relocate the thermostat to the Living room area. I believe this will be unnecessary, if I relocate the heater hose from the hallway instead.

Tom H