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Old 03-03-2022, 07:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by hlawrimore View Post
The code is NFPA1192 Standards for Recreation Vehicles
Yes that's one some others are:

1 - 2018 NFPA 1192 (National Fire Protection Association) - - covering plumbing, propane and fire issues
2 - 2018 ANSI/RVIA LV standard - - 12 volt electrical systems
3 - 2015 ANSI (American National Standards Institute) A119.5 PMRV standard - - more plumbing, propane and fire/life safety and construction issues
4 - 2017 NEC National Electrical Code - - 120 volt electrical systems
5 - 2018 ANSI TSIC-1 - - Control for assembly of wheels on trailers
6 - 2018 ANSI/RVIA EGS-1 - - Engine generator sets for RV Safety Requirements
7 - 2014 ANSI/RVIA UPA-1 - - Uniform plan approval for RV's
8 - 2015 ANSI A119.5 - - Park Model RV Standards

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Old 03-03-2022, 08:09 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Jim S JR View Post
Yes I did. My trailer is out of factory warranty.

He said he would forward the email to the engineers.

Where these trailers are made, I believe there is a lot of turn over.

It seemed like just kinda shook his head

Contact NHTSA and the Attorney Generals office. Send a picture of the setup.

As far as the Rockwood contacting the engineer, it will go nowhere. They really don't care.
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Old 03-03-2022, 08:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
Yes that's one some others are:



1 - 2018 NFPA 1192 (National Fire Protection Association) - - covering plumbing, propane and fire issues

2 - 2018 ANSI/RVIA LV standard - - 12 volt electrical systems

3 - 2015 ANSI (American National Standards Institute) A119.5 PMRV standard - - more plumbing, propane and fire/life safety and construction issues

4 - 2017 NEC National Electrical Code - - 120 volt electrical systems

5 - 2018 ANSI TSIC-1 - - Control for assembly of wheels on trailers

6 - 2018 ANSI/RVIA EGS-1 - - Engine generator sets for RV Safety Requirements

7 - 2014 ANSI/RVIA UPA-1 - - Uniform plan approval for RV's

8 - 2015 ANSI A119.5 - - Park Model RV Standards



Just one or two ...
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:05 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
Yes that's one some others are:

1 - 2018 NFPA 1192 (National Fire Protection Association) - - covering plumbing, propane and fire issues
2 - 2018 ANSI/RVIA LV standard - - 12 volt electrical systems
3 - 2015 ANSI (American National Standards Institute) A119.5 PMRV standard - - more plumbing, propane and fire/life safety and construction issues
4 - 2017 NEC National Electrical Code - - 120 volt electrical systems
5 - 2018 ANSI TSIC-1 - - Control for assembly of wheels on trailers
6 - 2018 ANSI/RVIA EGS-1 - - Engine generator sets for RV Safety Requirements
7 - 2014 ANSI/RVIA UPA-1 - - Uniform plan approval for RV's
8 - 2015 ANSI A119.5 - - Park Model RV Standards


I don't see where the NEC is followed, except pick and choose portions of it.
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:24 PM   #25
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I started reading some of the code. It clearly states that receptacles in bathrooms are to be isolated from all other receptacles. It's strange that most TT and RV's have a single GFCI receptacle in bathrooms that also feeds other receptacles throughout. Also, receptacles within a certain distance of water supplies must also be GFCI.

I know in my trailer the GFCI in the bathroom also supplies power to some of the other receptacles including the outside receptacle, except the microwave, refrigerator and the water heater.
I have not tested to see what other ones it also protects.
One other thing, none of affected receptacles are marked as GFCI protected.
I doubt very much that the one in the picture is a GFCI.
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Old 03-04-2022, 01:23 AM   #26
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Build quality

This doesn’t have anything to do with electrical or water leaks but my 2013 cruiselite furnace was installed with no cold air return. I guess they figured the poor construction of the dinette seat the furnace sits under would allow enough air to leak back in to the fan to circulate the heated air. I cut a hole in the wall of the seat and covered with a wall heat register grill. The furnace works great now. Cut my propane use in half. I swear I could build a better trailer in my driveway.
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Old 03-04-2022, 07:40 AM   #27
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This doesn’t have anything to do with electrical or water leaks but my 2013 cruiselite furnace was installed with no cold air return. I guess they figured the poor construction of the dinette seat the furnace sits under would allow enough air to leak back in to the fan to circulate the heated air. I cut a hole in the wall of the seat and covered with a wall heat register grill. The furnace works great now. Cut my propane use in half. I swear I could build a better trailer in my driveway.

That sounds more like someone 'forgot' to add the return air panel and it was missed in the final inspection, if one was even done. Or the design engineers just overlooked it.

Just like some cars where you have to remove multiple parts to replace a headlight or turn signal bulb.
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Old 03-04-2022, 07:46 AM   #28
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This shows that RIVA is a joke always was always will be . they do not follow any codes
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Old 03-04-2022, 07:53 AM   #29
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If you think that was a bad idea I have a good one for you also. I have a 2017 Blue Ridge with front living area and Forest River had the bright idea to put the relay switches for the (2) upper slides in the inside rain gutter. Needless to say the rain gutters did their job but also shorted the relays out so the slides were stuck open for a winter.
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Old 03-04-2022, 08:05 AM   #30
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Respectfully I see your point, although I feel it to be a bit pretentious being that it's an RV and building codes don't apply, but that's ok.

How far is a laundry washing machines water supply line from the dryer's 220V outlet in a house? If people feel 120v@15a in an RV is deadly, then I hate to see what they think about 220V@50a ...do people die deader?
In my house the dryer outlet is between 1-1.5 feet away from the water and drain connections for my washer and the 110 GFIC outlet for the washer is above the water and drain connections.

A dryer’s power connection is 30 amps, while a kitchen range is 50 amps.
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Old 03-04-2022, 08:37 AM   #31
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In OP's original photo, I believe the NEC would view those recepticles as floor recepticles, since they are not vertically mounted in a wall.
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Old 03-04-2022, 09:27 AM   #32
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Late at night, drip, drip, short, fire, exit from bedroom blocked, over come by smoke. Again worse case scenario, is it likely most likely not but ....

Like I said then a sue happy lawyer steps in.

I have yet to see an screw on connection in a house within 1 feet of an outlet, believe this is not allowed by code. My experience remodeling my basement I had to move an outlet as it was to close to a screw on connection to a faucet under the sink for the garbage disposal
IF you have a garbage disposal unit under the sink -- look and see where the cord plugs in.
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Old 03-04-2022, 09:36 AM   #33
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Respectfully I see your point, although I feel it to be a bit pretentious being that it's an RV and building codes don't apply, but that's ok.

How far is a laundry washing machines water supply line from the dryer's 220V outlet in a house?
But it's usually not dripping on it. Did you know that water conducts electricity?!?
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Old 03-04-2022, 09:49 AM   #34
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Contact NHTSA and the Attorney Generals office. Send a picture of the setup.

As far as the Rockwood contacting the engineer, it will go nowhere. They really don't care.
To say they really don't care isn't totally true. I do not know anyone who works for an RV manufacturer, but I do know someone who works for Dometic. From conversations I have had it seems there is a constant struggle to make all the "pieces fit". The pieces being.....well everything! From the very first drawing to the very first screw to the buyer. Are there employees in the RV industry with a don't give a crap attitude? Absolutely, no industry is without people of that attitude. RV suppliers, like Dometic, and RV manufacturers do work on everything. All problems are not always as obvious such as this. I'm surprised it was not addressed on the very first unit built. That being said, if the people on the assembly floor are not experienced in building of any kind, they may never recognize the poor placement of these two components. They know how to do their job and that's all they do.
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Old 03-04-2022, 11:35 AM   #35
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I think NEC Article 551 may be referenced for RV engineers for all electrical compliance issues. It defines all aspects of electrical requirements for the RV (trailer/motorhome etc.) industry. Does a manufacturer have to comply, don't know.

551-Recreational Vehicles and Recreational Vehicle Parks | Solar365
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Old 03-04-2022, 12:43 PM   #36
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I think it's just happenstance where, exactly, those boxes wind up with respect to the water heater. I think that the assemblers are given a nice solid model print and then they put them "about" where the print shows. They also most likely go in before the heater, so again stuff will wind up oddly located in the end.

In our 8299BS, I added the "cat tunnel" to let our cats go from the body of the camper through the utility area and into the basement, where their food and litter box are located. I partitioned the basement for that, so we lose some storage space but gain a cat hole, which gives the cats someplace away from the dogs when they feel like it.

As part of that, I did some cleanup and changes to the wiring and plumbing. The outlets I just moved to the back of the stairs; there was enough slack in the cabling that all I had to do was take them loose and relocate them. If anybody really wanted to, it's pretty easy.
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Old 03-04-2022, 02:31 PM   #37
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I think NEC Article 551 may be referenced for RV engineers for all electrical compliance issues. It defines all aspects of electrical requirements for the RV (trailer/motorhome etc.) industry. Does a manufacturer have to comply, don't know.

551-Recreational Vehicles and Recreational Vehicle Parks | Solar365
So, do all manufacturers go through 551.60 test?
Doubtful when you read about problems caused by wires not connected, staples through wires, etc.

Looks good on paper, but what happens on the assembly line seems to be different.
Maybe, there needs to be on site inspectors in the assembly lines slapping a sticker on each unit.
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Old 03-04-2022, 07:01 PM   #38
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Angry Looking to the Future

Well, I've been into RVing for almost 15 years, ever since my knees told me "no more backpacking". When I first got into it, folks were complaining about the poor quality of RV construction, and that was when it was a lot better than it is now. Since then, it's gotten a lot worse and since COVID hit, the manufacturers and dealers have been able to get away with some really crappy work.

Nowadays we have two choices, 1) buy a new RV and plan on it being at the dealers for repairs at least 50 % of the time, or 2) Accept that you are going to be doing a lot of work on your new RV yourself. I'm afraid that in many cases the dealers don't do near as good a job as the factory did. That's really sad and my heart goes out to those people who don't know how or can't do their own work.

Looking down the road, I don't see things getting any better.
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Old 03-04-2022, 08:15 PM   #39
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turn the connection to the right to stop the leak....
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Old 03-04-2022, 08:27 PM   #40
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So, do all manufacturers go through 551.60 test?
Doubtful when you read about problems caused by wires not connected, staples through wires, etc.

Looks good on paper, but what happens on the assembly line seems to be different.
Maybe, there needs to be on site inspectors in the assembly lines slapping a sticker on each unit.
Like I said I don't know if they even use it as a guide for manufacturing. I do have a Forest River motorhome division QC Checklist. It is extremely long and highly detailed. There's just one thing though; all the detailed/in process inspections are done by leads not a qualified QC inspector. I think leads are promoted from the working ranks so if the inspected item/area matches how he/she did it when just an installer it's checked off as being inspected and good to go. To me it would be almost the same as an installer inspecting his/her own work. Where a qualified QC inspector gets involved, as best I can see, is check the sign off sheets and verify all the required inspections have been checked off and initialed by the lead. After unit is completed, I think a QC inspector may do some operational testing but maybe not.
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