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Old 05-23-2020, 02:06 PM   #1
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Trailer sway

Hi y'all.
I posted on another thread but no replies except for one so I thought I would try again.
I have an f 150 eco boost. Just bought a 2020 Rockwood 2614 bs. Dry weight 7000 lbs tongue weight 700 lbs, 30 foot. Using a blue ox sway pro up to 10,000 lbs. From time to time I get trailer sway. Is there anything I can adjust on the truck ie aftermarket or the hitch to help the sway. Trading the truck is not an option .
Thanks
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Old 05-23-2020, 02:32 PM   #2
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How many links did you have connected, What kind of tires on the truck? May want to upgrade to LT rated tires,New better shocks will help.
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Old 05-23-2020, 02:41 PM   #3
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Have you ever taken the whole rig to a scale? Actual numbers will help find your problem.
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:07 PM   #4
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Have you ever taken the whole rig to a scale? Actual numbers will help find your problem.

X2 you may not have enough tongue weight, that's the first place to start.
3 passes on a cat scale will give you all the info you need. I use the CAT app on my phone makes the process super easy.
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spragueman View Post
Hi y'all.
I posted on another thread but no replies except for one so I thought I would try again.
I have an f 150 eco boost. Just bought a 2020 Rockwood 2614 bs. Dry weight 7000 lbs tongue weight 700 lbs, 30 foot. Using a blue ox sway pro up to 10,000 lbs. From time to time I get trailer sway. Is there anything I can adjust on the truck ie aftermarket or the hitch to help the sway. Trading the truck is not an option .
Thanks
Actually you got 2 or 3 replies in the other thread, including mine.


"You really need to provide more information.

Truck: Year, 2.7 or 3.5 Ecoboost, cab size, bed size, Max Tow package or regular tow package, 4x2 or 4x4, rear end ratio, Payload Capacity from driver's door yellow sticker.

Trailer: Unfortunately you have committed one of the two biggest newbie mistakes, using fictional dry weights from the brochure/website. And the fictional dry tongue weight is 796lbs, not 700lbs. NO trailer or its tongue weighs anywhere close to those numbers when loaded for camping. Those numbers are based on a stripped-down version of the trailer.

So you either have an overloaded truck or an out of adjustment WDH or you have both."
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:41 PM   #6
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I had an F150 and a 7k loaded trailer with a 1400lb blueox swaypro.

Unless you have an HDPP truck or a payload over 1900lbs I am pretty sure you are over payload and rear axle weight from my experience.

I had lots of issues most of which were created by the initial hitch setup and very poor weight distribution on my part.

I had 1400lb bars. I used the 8th link.

Things to check for sway:
Straight chains from the bars to the trailer...if the truck is straight on the chains should be straight up and down.
Jack the trailer and truck all they way up when hooking up. This gives you a good head angle and provides more weight distribution.
As others said, weigh it. KNOW where you stand dont guess. This will tell you what adjustments to make. The blue ox does not really displace a lot of weight.
I moved lots of weight around the trailer to balance better because I was VERY tongue heavy due to storage locations. It meant leaving stuff at home and moving things around when I arrived.

I did the blueox for a year before I switched hitches because I didnt want to take a bath on a new truck or trailer.

I did the LT tire update when I needed tires. Not a significant improvement.
I added timbrens which helped with porpoiseing and keeping the truck level.
I changed to a P3 hitch. Helped with sway a LOT to only minor issues afterwards. It offset more weight but weighs more itself so it will not solve your weight issues. The 60days money back sold me on trying it just know if you return it the return shipping is pricey because of weight.

In the end I updated trucks to an F350 after a few years. I got tired of moving things around when we arrived to resolve weight issues. I looked at lighter trailers as well but we really love the one we have. Now I can tow easy not have to rearrange everything and ready for an trailer update if we find something but it cost a lot to make the setup stable trying different things.

Weighing was the best thing I did to tune the WDH better and redistributing the trailer weight. It was second only to the P3 hitch to resolving the sway but at $10 much better bang for the buck.
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:14 PM   #7
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Thanks for the reply. The blue ox I have is rated 750 to 1000 lbs. The chains are vertical and in the 8 Th link (7free) I have two lithium batteries vs the two 6 volt deep cycle. The truck is the 3.5 EB super cab 6.5 box with topper and two small kayaks and two bicycles on the back of the trailer. Put most if the weight over the axles in the trailer when moving.
Will go to a scale when I can. In a private campground for the season. Because of covid it was my only option for the forseable future. I suspect I should have bought the 250 instead of the 150 but was told that was overkill by a long shot. The truck and trailer ride level. Is the idea in my case to get more weight on the truck axle or off? Thanks for your help
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:20 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info. The truck is riding level. Did have it in the 9 th link (8) free but changed to the 8th (7) free and the sway improved. The chains are vertical. Not sure I mentioned I have the 750 to 1000 lb bars. Truck has 5000 miles so LT tires and shocks good.
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:27 PM   #9
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2019 150 supercab 6.5 box 3.5 EB. 4X4. I carry two small kayaks on a glass topper and two lightweight bikes on the rear of the trailer. I put in two lithium batteries mounted on the tongue. I try and place most of the weight when travelling over the trailer axles. I travel with empty tanks. I appreciate all your help.
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:29 PM   #10
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Until you have actual weights, the proper decisions cannot be made, only guessed at.
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:59 PM   #11
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2019 150 supercab 6.5 box 3.5 EB. 4X4. I carry two small kayaks on a glass topper and two lightweight bikes on the rear of the trailer. I put in two lithium batteries mounted on the tongue. I try and place most of the weight when travelling over the trailer axles. I travel with empty tanks. I appreciate all your help.
Most weight over axles can cause sway , maybe move some weight forward and see how it tows
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Old 05-23-2020, 10:53 PM   #12
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You might be interested in the responses here also. https://www.f150forum.com/f82/

We need the numbers from your F 150 door sticker and trailer to give you the best answers. Offhand you probably have 1000+ pounds of additional weight in the loaded trailer so add 150 pounds to your tongue weight = 850 pounds, add in another 100 pounds for the batteries and WDH = 950 pounds. You probably have about 1700-1800 pounds payload capacity on your truck. So you have perhaps 750 pounds of payload left. Subtract the weight of passengers, kayaks, tools, bikes, and all other gear. You are pretty close to payload max. All of this is a guess without your real numbers.
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Old 05-23-2020, 11:21 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Spragueman View Post
Thanks for the reply. The blue ox I have is rated 750 to 1000 lbs. The chains are vertical and in the 8 Th link (7free) I have two lithium batteries vs the two 6 volt deep cycle. The truck is the 3.5 EB super cab 6.5 box with topper and two small kayaks and two bicycles on the back of the trailer. Put most if the weight over the axles in the trailer when moving.
Will go to a scale when I can. In a private campground for the season. Because of covid it was my only option for the forseable future. I suspect I should have bought the 250 instead of the 150 but was told that was overkill by a long shot. The truck and trailer ride level. Is the idea in my case to get more weight on the truck axle or off? Thanks for your help
Well, if you posted the amount of payload, that's at least a starting point. It's on the Tires and Loading sticker. It'll say cOccupants and cargo should not exceed xxxxlbs.
You didn't say which towing package it has. Does it have the OEM Ford brake controller and 36 gallon fuel tank.
My F150 SCREW 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost with the Max Tow package has 1828lbs of payload capacity.
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Old 05-24-2020, 01:14 AM   #14
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You're getting good advise and answers here.

Providing the payload will help.
Getting the scale numbers will provide a clear picture.

Main causes of sway:

1) Improper Weight Distribution hitch setup- Download the instructions for your hitch and make sure it is properly setup.

2) Not enough tongue weight- Until you go to the scales, your estimating and really guessing this number. Best estimate could easily be off 150 lbs or more depending on how you're loading the camper.

3) Too much weight over the axles or rearward- Moving weight forward in the camper will increase your tongue weight which will help with sway but may put you over on payload.

4) Under inflated Tires on the truck and/or trailer. Also soft sidewall tires such as passenger tires or tires that are barely rated high enough for the loads they are carrying. Overkill on tires specs for the loads they are carrying is a good thing. Many people buy up one on the load range of what their trailer needs.

https://www.lesschwab.com/article/ti...-sidewall.html

5) Size of the trailer- Travel trailers and especially tall or longer ones catch a lot of wind during windy days or when being passed by semi's, buses or other trailers. Often get sucked towards whatever is passing them. This can induce sway when you react to it by turning away from the passing vehicle.

6) All of the above can cause sway and it will become worse with higher speeds. slowing down if it's a windy day or if your feeling it can often make it better if not make it go away. I've had trailers that if I didn't have them loaded properly would sway a little at 65 mph or higher but would behave nicely if I dropped it down to 58-60 mph.

Get the weights and we will see where you are. Hopefully it's not a case of Salesman BS biting you and your truck/trailer combo is in the area where with some tweaks and changes, the experienced folks on this forum can get you back to a safe traveling situation. Most of us have had sway at some point and it makes for some white knuckle moments and is not on anyone's fun things to do list. You need to get it figured out and fixed before it turns into a bad situation on a highway somewhere.

Get back with us once you have the scale and payload numbers.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:26 AM   #15
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I have a Blue Ox 1500.
The OP made mention in a previous post they used the "9th link with 8 links free and then said tried 8th link with 7 free." I interpret this to mean your chain is a total of 17 links in first example. And 15 links in your second example.
Blue Ox recommends you have 9 links on the 'free' end of the chain. BO says you can go to 10 or 11 free links from the top link in rotating bracket to the free end of the chain to compensate for driving conditions. This results in less links between spring arm and rotating bracket. This is on P. 4 of the manual.
In my initial BO setup, I had the the ball 3/4" higher than the top of TT hitch when TT was level. There was no way I could get 9 free links. So, I had to raise the head assy one hole higher up the shank from my initial setup of 3/4" ball to hitch to obtain 9 free links. Moving the head assy up, decreased the distance between the TT frame and the end of the spring bars with TT attached. In other words... I increased the hitch ball distance from top of ball to ground to get 9 free links.
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Old 05-27-2020, 10:18 AM   #16
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How much your vehicle and camper squat? Ideally, the truck should have the same attitude as designed (empty) and the camper floor should run parallel to the ground.

Take a measurement from the top of the wheel to the top edge of the fender arch (front and back) to base line your truck. That is how is supposed to ride from factory. Attach your camper, it should squat evenly and that is a perfect setup. If you are within an inch is ok, more than that you might end up with stability issues. Next, see if your trailer floor is parallel to the ground. If is pulling a wheelie or nose diving from more than an inch difference, you might end up with trailer sway. Adjust Ball up or down to get the camper level.

Is going to take some time to get it tweaked, but the goal is to front/rear Truck suspension should squat the same amount. Trailer should remain parallel to the ground (same height front end to rear end).

Now, Weight Distribution Hitches are not Magical Devices. They will help distributing the force (Lbs are force, not weight) evenly. The part that you might be missing is the Anti Sway. Is actually a Friction Brake or a Cam System like the Reese Tow Pro system that locks in place when going straight.

Even with all that, you will encounter sway for many other reasons, is not 100% solution to the issue. Sometime, you can help to control sway by Bleeping the Manual Override of the Brake Controller. What does is create a drag by applying the camper's brake and pull straight back on the ball, evenly distributing force, like a Wind Vane. Just take a quick bleep, not even a second long.

Also, too stiff Weight Distribution Bars can do it. Match the bars to the camper weight, more stiffer does not mean better, too weak neither. Go the next higher to the camper weight. Do not crank them all the way, do not let them sag all the way, the bars should be set parallel to the Camper Chassis when they are in tension, no more, no less.

I set mine when the camper was emptied, just about an 1.5 bowed upward by the hitch compare to the rest. The idea was to give me some slack for weight so I can go from emptied 1.5+ to full 1- for the total of 2.5 in.


One thing that seems to be a gimmick and worked pretty decent was some called Air Tabs, did helped me with stabilizing the camper and kept it somewhat cleaned on the back.

But never ever got to 100% anti-sway, there was another things, from uneven roads, crappy roads, crosswinds, boxed trucks, etc...
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:42 PM   #17
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Might Just Be Normal Sway

Just a thought... OP did not say how much tow experience they have.

Does sound like truck/trlr combo is about at capacity, but if you have taken the time to set everything up as best you can, what you are feeling may just be normal.

I think sometimes folks feel if they buy the biggest and best hitches and tires and all that, their rig is going to float down the road and not be subject to natural physics. It just is not so.

Normal "is" being pushed around a little with wind, trucks and trailers passing. There is no hitch or tires gonna stop that.

Over steering in those situations will also cause things to "feel" worse.

As long as you are not fighting the steering wheel back and forth to stay straight in calm conditions, which would be a dead giveaway something is not right, you may be fine.

I drive big trucks for a living, and even loaded to 80,000 lbs wind and other trucks passing do push me around in my lane.

Just need to stay calm, no white knucklin! Keep her in your lane with minor steering adjustments and know that it is normal to feel being pushed around a little.

May be looking for a problem that is not there.

Stay safe and enjoy your RV!!
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:00 PM   #18
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White Knuckle Driving will wear you out. A relaxed drive is a safe drive.

Agree, is not about how much your equipment cost, is about how well is installed and set.

I went through a lot of reading, video watching, asking people... learned a lot before I jumped with both feet. Funny is, my 2306 was supposed to be towed with my 09 Pontiac G8, the car was designed to tow, is capable of 4,680 Lbs towing and 468 Lbs tongue weight. I have some pics to prove it. Plans changed and bought me a 16 Colorado, what sold me was price, its size and towing capacity, perfect for that camper. BTW... I still got the G8
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:30 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 6CatDaddy View Post


Normal "is" being pushed around a little with wind, trucks and trailers passing. There is no hitch or tires gonna stop that.


As long as you are not fighting the steering wheel back and forth to stay straight in calm conditions, which would be a dead giveaway something is not right, you may be fine.

Just need to stay calm, no white knucklin! Keep her in your lane with minor steering adjustments and know that it is normal to feel being pushed around a little.

May be looking for a problem that is not there.

Stay safe and enjoy your RV!!

X2


I find I'm more aware/alarmed of the suck push when it's unexpected (because I'm not checking mirrors often enough). When I see him coming it doesn't feel nearly as bad.
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Old 05-27-2020, 01:50 PM   #20
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The vehicles that I found that made the biggest sway impact were Boxed Trucks and Dullies. 18 Wheelers, they did some but were not that bad.
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