Travel Trailer Outside Temperature Limitations

[johnruff]

I used my RV for 2 1/2 years in Bloomington, Illinois and used it year round in the Yogi Bear Jellystone campground. They had the water turned on for several sites year round. I wrapped the hose in heat tape, covered that with insulation and then taped it with Duct tape. In those conditions, I also had to put plywood around the base and seal it best I could to keep the wind out. It would go to 20 below and the wind would blow 30 mph but I ran the heater and had no problem as long as there were no wind leaks. When I did have a leak, it would only freeze up one place (hot or cold at the sink usually) and it would thaw during the day. I also ran an electric heater in the living quarters. The 1999 Montana did fine.
I now have a Prime Time Crusader and am in GA north of Atlanta. It gets to the teens at night and sometimes to single digits. I used oil filled heater and run the RV heater to keep the belly warm. I do not skirt it here and am in my 2nd year and no problems. Just keep the propane filled or call the gas company and have them put in a large tank and they keep it filled.
If you are not staying that long, keep your propane tanks filled, know where you can get them filled so when ones empties, you go get it filled. You probably would want a 20lb spare for an emergency and have an electric heater - ceramic or oil filled to supplement. If your underbelly is heated, running the heat should work for you.
In all these locations, I was never the only person there year round - especially here in GA.
I use the RV for business, it is better and less expensive than signing an apartment lease or staying in hotels.

[prof_fate]

two experiences to relate..

my father in law has camped in his pop up as low as 8F. Yes, 8. Now he's stripped it of toilet, fridge, etc. So dry camping.

Met a couple in Kentucky that came down for a temp job that kept getting extended and the spent all last winter in teh CG in their non-winter proof camper. He packed inslulation everywhere, put a skirt on it, heat tape/wrap on the water lines/drain lines and managed to live thru the winter - with a great story to tell!

His biggest issue was the CG didn't plow the roads in the winter, so getting in /out at times was tough, but they let him stay.

[stevewise]

Originally Posted by youroo

Leaving water running in freezing conditions like at your stick house,is of very little use in a RV with Limited F/Water supply and Holding tank Capacty! Youroo!!

It works when you are on hook-ups as you can just leave your grey water valves open so there is no filling of the tanks.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by stevewise

It works when you are on hook-ups as you can just leave your grey water valves open so there is no filling of the tanks.

The OP was asking about Low Temp,your method might work in Fla.but Not in the North where you wont/cant get running water at C/G when it is shut off for the Winter! Youroo!!

[stevewise]

Originally Posted by youroo

The OP was asking about Low Temp,your method might work in Fla.but Not in the North where you wont/cant get running water at C/G when it is shut off for the Winter! Youroo!!

I live in Fla but my 5er is in NE PA where I am getting temps down to 4F this week and my water is running with an outside heated and insulated hose.

[KnP]

I was told NOT to leave the dump valve open. Some about "crap" getting stuck on the valve slide and does not shut off or makes it hard to shut off. Just at any weather to leave them closed and dump depending on how full they get (about 3/4 full)

Is that correct?

[bob caldwell]

I never leave 'em open...ther're holding tanks...and if it gets to 32, disconnect the hose for fresh water and drain hose....takes 3 minutes and costs nothing

[KnP]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

... and if it gets to 32, disconnect the hose for fresh water and drain hose....takes 3 minutes and costs nothing

Read the same thing, use the holding tanks, drain waste, replenish the fresh water and disconnect / drain hose.

Might use a quick disconnect. I have a few on my garden hose at home to wash my cars. Is so easy to slide the locking ring and click in place, just like an air hose.

[KnP]

Here is some info that I found on this site under features.

Insulation factors R-7 side wall, R-12 floor and R-14 ceiling

Here is a comparison with a 4 season type Artic Fox

The Nash Arctic Fox are commonly thought of a supurb 4 season RV. Often folks say that it is believed to have insulation far superior to other brands. They do build an excellant RV, and are a great company. But they have R-18 ceiling insulation, R-7 walls and floors.

Here is another site under heated holding tanks.

Rockwood trailers. heated pads operate off 12 volt and can heat the tanks while traveling down the road, dry camping, or hooked up to 110 volt. The tank heaters are guaranteed to 11 degrees below zero. Rockwood trailers also puts heat strips on the dump valves for added protection. Rockwood also encloses the underbelly for better tow ability and to protect the under carriage from weathering.

I do not think the underbelly is fully enclosed on the 2306. However, we ordered our with Ultra-Heat Electronically Controlled Heated Holding Tanks as an option (including elbow/drain tubes).

Ultra Heat FAQ

What is the lowest temperature the UltraHeat® heat panels are good to?

While each RV or Caravan is different, our overall product design benchmark and testing is -11°F (-23.9°C). This is on an RV holding tank (with the properly sized heat panel), mounted below the floor and totally exposed to the elements. Lower temperatures can be achieved by additional modifications to the RV, once the UltraHeat® system is installed and tested; these are some of the suggested ways to improve the performance:
Enclosing the underbelly or just the area around the Plumbing Systems.
Adding any type of insulation around and covering the plumbing system.
In extended stays, skirting the unit.
It’s OK to oversize the holding tank heater, install one for a 60 gal. (227L), on a 40 gal. (151.4L)

In addition we ordered the TT with Thermopane Windows as another option.

What it gets me is... this information was pretty hard to dig (in a way) and Forest River cannot give you a decent Operational Temperature Range/Limitation. Is like never did a real life field testing and come up with real numbers.

There is any Forest River Tech Reps/Engineering visit the forums by any chance? Usually on car forums, there is someone that knows the products darn well and helps out with some technical assistance.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by KnP

There is any Forest River Tech Reps/Engineering visit the forums by any chance? Usually on car forums, there is someone that knows the products darn well and helps out with some technical assistance.

Nope. not for Rockwood/Flagstaff line.

we only have a handful of FR reps that are members here.
never seen any responses from Rockwood/Flagstaff reps/techs on the Forum.