water connections

[mikemc53]

More really basic newbie questions.

I'm going to de-winterize in a day or so and I went out to re-familiarize myself with the water hookups. I have done nothing with it since purchase this summer so everything looked foreign to me. Behind the door for the city water there are two connections; one with a screen and one without...what are each of these for?

There is also a valve for winterize/city water and it is currently in the winterize position as the trailer is winterized...that much I get.

There is a small toggle lighted switch which I assume is just for lighting the area and then there is a toggle switch labeled "pump" and I cannot recall what that is for.

Basically I am a little lost as to what everything is behind that door.

Help

[Mr. Dan]

You might post a picture so we could be sure........... but regarding water, I assume you're seeing 1.) a metal female hose connection - for hooking up to campground water and 2.) a plastic fill tube for putting water in your fresh water tank.

[mikemc53]

Thanks Mr. Dan and I will try to post pics a bit later. The plastic fill tube is actually in a separate compartment, just above the one that I am referring to. So that still leaves the two connections in my city water compartment...

[Mr. Dan]

My trailer is different I know... but I have a black tank flush connection in there, too. It is a metal female threaded connection for a pressurized hose - to flush your black tank.

[rockfordroo]

Behind the door for the city water there are two connections; one with a screen and one without...what are each of these for?
I suspect one is for your city water connection and one is for your anti-freeze (winterizing) connection.

There is also a valve for winterize/city water and it is currently in the winterize position as the trailer is winterized...that much I get.
In the winterize position, it should connect the anti-freeze connection to the suction of your water pump so you can pump anti-freeze into your plumbing system. In the other position it will connect your fresh water tank to the suction of your water pump.

There is a small toggle lighted switch which I assume is just for lighting the area and then there is a toggle switch labeled "pump" and I cannot recall what that is for.
Can't speak to the lighted switch, but the pump switch is most likely for your water pump that pumps water from your fresh water tank to your trailers plumbing. Seems like an odd place for it, though. I'm familiar with having it inside somewhere.

Hope this helps.

[Aggie_90]

FYI....Water pump typically only needs turned on if your boon docking and using water from your fresh water tank. If you turn it on and fresh water tank is empty, then you can burn up your pump. You do not need to use it when in a campground and hooked up to city water.

[mikemc53]

Thanks everyone. I finally got to my destination and de-winterized, successfully. What I have found out about this particular unit is pretty much what you folks have told me. The one hookup, with the screen, is for my black water flush. The other is my city water connection.

By the way, in another thread I had asked about my hot water heater bypass valves and their location. What a pain but I got to them and all is well. If anyone ever needs advice on the location of things with a Rockwood 8329SS I may be able to help...a bit.

Happy New Year all!

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by mikemc53

Thanks everyone. I finally got to my destination and de-winterized, successfully. What I have found out about this particular unit is pretty much what you folks have told me. The one hookup, with the screen, is for my black water flush. The other is my city water connection.

So if one was for city water and one was for your blackwater flush, you should have a 3rd one somewhere for your anti-freeze. You'll need to find this one to re-winterize if you use the antifreeze method vice blowing out the lines.

[Appalachian Ed]

I have a clarification question regarding blowing out the lines on my 8289WS.

I beleive I should leave the waterheater in line (cold in and hot out valves open), then close them and open the bypass valve to bypass the water heater when I blow the lines out. Correct?

[youroo]

No,close off the W/H. Drain it though! Youroo!! Before you do ANY draining close the W/H or you will Pull CRUD downstream! This for Ap Ed,Not the OP!

[Appalachian Ed]

Thanks Youroo. Wouldn't that mean that the water is sitting in my water heater? Doesn't it need to be emptied?

Not questioning you just trying to understand the logic. I appreciate very much the way you keep helping us rookies!

[youroo]

No in my Post I said Drain it though! Youroo!!

[Appalachian Ed]

Thanks Youroo. Now I have to figure out how to drain it. I thought if I just left it open and opened the low point drains it would drain the water heater. It sounds like it does but it will draw any crud into my hot water heater if I am understanding correctly. I will do some research on draining the hot water heater separately.

Thanks again youroo!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed

Thanks Youroo. Now I have to figure out how to drain it. I thought if I just left it open and opened the low point drains it would drain the water heater. It sounds like it does but it will draw any crud into my hot water heater if I am understanding correctly. I will do some research on draining the hot water heater separately.

Thanks again youroo!

ED turn off the elect breaker in your Main Panel that supplies your W/H , Turn off water pump,Disconnect city water hose,Open H and Cold faucet,any one,Now take a 1/2" drive ratchet,with a 6" extension,and a 1 and1/16 " 6 point socket and remove the A-Rod,Stand to the Side! The Water and CRUD will drain out,now flush out the Tank with fresh water using the A-Rod HOLE/Drain Hole,there are adapters made for a Garden Hose to do this, Youroo!! ED you want to Open the H&C faucets BEFORE you Turn the Bypass Valves to Isolate the W/H,this will relieve the Water Pressure from the W/H tank,so you Dont get a BATH!

[bob caldwell]

If it's a Surb.water heater, remove anode rod

[Appalachian Ed]

Originally Posted by youroo

ED turn off the elect breaker in your Main Panel that supplies your W/H , Turn off water pump,Disconnect city water hose,Open H and Cold faucet,any one,Now take a 1/2" drive ratchet,with a 6" extension,and a 1 and1/16 " 6 point socket and remove the A-Rod,Stand to the Side! The Water and CRUD will drain out,now flush out the Tank with fresh water using the A-Rod HOLE/Drain Hole,there are adapters made for a Garden Hose to do this, Youroo!! ED you want to Open the H&C faucets BEFORE you Turn the Bypass Valves to Isolate the W/H,this will relieve the Water Pressure from the W/H tank,so you Dont get a BATH!

You da man youroo!

[ChateauV10]

Mike, Thanks for asking the question. Living in California, I've never winterized a trailer but our new 8392SS does have this interesting panel and I glossed over it's operation during the PDI.
I wish the black tank flush was NOT right next to the city water inlet and that both the inlets had the bigger knob design. (Is you city water on sort of an extended hose that sticks out a bit? mine is...)
Having the water pump switch there is interesting and I see it would help with winterizing, and I could use it to turn on the pump after I have disconnected the city hose to provide last-minute water inside, but it's not likely a 3-way switch and with no indicator light inside, it would be easy to forget in packing up.
I've dreamed of a black flush inlet that was recessed enough to put a quick connect on permanently, making usage a literal "snap". oh well...
The lighted switch that only exists to light up? Now THAT is an interesting design solution!


Cheers!