Why this kitchen power outlet so bulky?

[aboyz]

Attached you will see the kitchen power outlet. Inside is where the juntion box is. The wood is very thin so it is easy to break.

Was wondering if i can swap out that bulky power outlet with a thinner one? Also I wanted to mount a L bracket on there for my extended counter trop. If i put screw in there it will not last long. Any bracket I can buy for the outside and inside to make it more stable?

thank you

[SeaDog]

You could install a backing board inside the cabinet that would be strong enough to hold a bracket. until you pull the receptacle out to see if this is being used for numerous wires there is not way to tell if you can install a different receptacle.

[RKC12]

You have a brand new trailer that you don’t know much about. Not a good idea to be messing around and making modifications to the electrical system while it is still under warranty.

Just sayin

—

[aboyz]

Originally Posted by RKC12

You have a brand new trailer that you don’t know much about. Not a good idea to be messing around and making modifications to the electrical system while it is still under warranty.

Just sayin

—

Yeah I know, but I cannot mount the bracket there becuase that power outage is way too big. I have never seen a power bracket that big before. I do other outlet in the trailer that have the one we use for home. the flat one.

Know what i mean?

thank you

[aboyz]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

You could install a backing board inside the cabinet that would be strong enough to hold a bracket. until you pull the receptacle out to see if this is being used for numerous wires there is not way to tell if you can install a different receptacle.

Do you know if I can buy those backing board bracket at amazon? if so please tell me which one to purchase. I will need 4 right?

[SeaDog]

The OP did not say the rig was new or under warranty

[SeaDog]

Originally Posted by aboyz

Do you know if I can buy those backing board bracket at amazon? if so please tell me which one to purchase. I will need 4 right?

Go to home depot or lowes and get the plywood (not osb) you need to make a backing plate that will distribute the load of the bracket for the counter.

[lazyjj]

Not sure why it really matters. If it works I would go with that and be happy! These are campers that give comfort and keeps you off a tent floor!

[Freetyme]

I cut stained and varnished a piece of 3/4 " oak and just cut out for the outlet , a normal outlet but should work as well. The front and back of the cabinet has enough material behind it to screw the oak to . This provides a strong surface to mount brackets on. Wouldn't have to mess with the outlet box.

[WanderMore]

I don’t know your skill level but that is a GFCI outlet. In order to properly install a backing plate you may have to disconnect the AC mains feeding the GFCI as well as any down stream outlets that may be protected by that outlet. If you reinstall the connections wrong you could defeat the intended protection.

The reason to remove it is to give yourself ample space to install a backing that would not only support the outlet but also provide support and a screw backer surface for your brackets for the counter extension. The larger the backer plate the better so as to distribute the load of what you would be placing on the counter extension.

If it were me I would also use construction adhesive to fasten the backer plate to the plywood.

[Desert Boat]

Until you open it up, no way to tell why they needed the extra depth for that outlet. RV mfrs try to do the minimum, so I cannot imagine they would add this trim if not really needed. And it doesn't look like it is adding any structural support, since the back picture shows only the two thin "old work" cams holding the outlet in the thin plywood. Also, the rear picture is not clear, but the "old work" box looks like it is hitting whatever is hanging from above. So all I can think is that they needed more volume in the box.

You need to be comfortable doing basic electrical work before proceeding. If this is the first outlet you are opening, STOP and get skilled assistance.

First step would be to open up and determine if you can delete the thicker external trim. The extra volume might just be needed for fast production. An electrician without production deadlines might be able to reconfigure the wiring without needing the extra volume.

If you can delete the external trim, then I would get a piece of 1/2" plywood that can fit inside the cabinet, extending from where you will install the brackets all the way to the floor, to provide reinforcement for the counter extension and the outlet. You need to both strengthen the thin cabinet stock and transfer the load to the floor.

[WanderMore]

The part that is making the duplex stick out is a GFCI extension ring. It does provide some support when plugging into the outlet as the ring has a mating surface that sits on the face of the plywood. If a proper backing plate is installed that extension ring could be eliminated. It’s all about the potential force of plugging something in without pushing the whole works into the cabinet.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by WanderMore

The part that is making the duplex stick out is a GFCI extension ring. It does provide some support when plugging into the outlet as the ring has a mating surface that sits on the face of the plywood. If a proper backing plate is installed that extension ring could be eliminated. It’s all about the potential force of plugging something in without pushing the whole works into the cabinet.

That sounds like the best explanation.

This is a 2021 Geo Pro according to his profile, so he could void the warranty by moving the box. Unless the wood has cracked?

[Desert Boat]

Originally Posted by WanderMore

The part that is making the duplex stick out is a GFCI extension ring. It does provide some support when plugging into the outlet as the ring has a mating surface that sits on the face of the plywood. If a proper backing plate is installed that extension ring could be eliminated. It’s all about the potential force of plugging something in without pushing the whole works into the cabinet.

Thanks. I am unfamiliar with this device, but I do see how it could spread insertion loads. Don't see how it helps with removal loads, which are still just held by the two cams. So I would definitely add a backing plate.

For those with warranty concerns, reinforcing items is how you avoid warranty claims when it eventually pulls out, particularly the weeks long waits for a tech to do 30 minutes of work with some some paint sticks and bigger screws, that you could have done better yourself.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by WanderMore

The part that is making the duplex stick out is a GFCI extension ring. It does provide some support when plugging into the outlet as the ring has a mating surface that sits on the face of the plywood. If a proper backing plate is installed that extension ring could be eliminated. It’s all about the potential force of plugging something in without pushing the whole works into the cabinet.

Bingo.
They use that to distribute the load of plugging/unplugging to that outlet BECAUSE it is mounted on a thin board. Cheaper to use the plastic ring than to build the surrounding area better.

[aboyz]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

The OP did not say the rig was new or under warranty

its a brand new geo pro 20bhs.

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by aboyz

Attached you will see the kitchen power outlet. Inside is where the juntion box is. The wood is very thin so it is easy to break.

Was wondering if i can swap out that bulky power outlet with a thinner one? Also I wanted to mount a L bracket on there for my extended counter trop. If i put screw in there it will not last long. Any bracket I can buy for the outside and inside to make it more stable?

thank you

If you’re handy, yes you can change that outlet out for a thinner one from one of the big box stores. However, that entire very thin wall needs to be reinforced for any work you want done with it.

[aboyz]

Originally Posted by WanderMore

I don’t know your skill level but that is a GFCI outlet. In order to properly install a backing plate you may have to disconnect the AC mains feeding the GFCI as well as any down stream outlets that may be protected by that outlet. If you reinstall the connections wrong you could defeat the intended protection.

The reason to remove it is to give yourself ample space to install a backing that would not only support the outlet but also provide support and a screw backer surface for your brackets for the counter extension. The larger the backer plate the better so as to distribute the load of what you would be placing on the counter extension.

If it were me I would also use construction adhesive to fasten the backer plate to the plywood.

thank you for the explanation. So the front bracket is for the support. is there a way to get the bracket in the back for suppose instead of the front.?

If so what do I need to purchase ..

[RKC12]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

The OP did not say the rig was new or under warranty

Um, yeah he did...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ng-226574.html

[flyflotrtim]

Like others have previously mentioned. Purchase some plywood. Make a template of the inside where the outlet is, use a piece of paper (cut open a grocery bag) or piece of cardboard. Using the template, cut the piece of plywood to fit and glue in place. Now your wall is thick enough to support two L brackets, one on each side of the outlet to extend your top. A smaller electrical box is now optional also.

Alternatively as also mentioned, cut, stain, and mount a piece of plywood on the outside surrounding the outlet.