Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-18-2015, 04:20 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 108
Winterizing a windjammer 3008w and draining the water heater

After much searching my husband and I finally successfully winterized the TT, but we had a few issues. We couldn't figure out how to use the antifreeze inlet where the city water hooked in so ended up putting antifreeze in the fresh tank and was able to pump it through the system. We realize that we'll have a lot of sanitizing the fresh tank next spring but couldn't get the trailer into dealer any sooner. Later we finally discovered the valve under the bathroom sink behind the water pump that you can't visually see. We pumped more antifreeze though the system and it works correctly. Our more difficult issue was draining the water heater. We used the bypass to ensure no antifreeze got in heater but could only drain water using top release valve. We finally were able to get a large enough fitting to remove the bolt at the bottom that holds the heating element and it didn't seem to have anymore water. Does anyone know an easier way or is there another easy to drain the water heater?
__________________

dkkirkland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2015, 12:19 PM   #2
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkkirkland View Post
After much searching my husband and I finally successfully winterized the TT, but we had a few issues. We couldn't figure out how to use the antifreeze inlet where the city water hooked in so ended up putting antifreeze in the fresh tank and was able to pump it through the system. We realize that we'll have a lot of sanitizing the fresh tank next spring but couldn't get the trailer into dealer any sooner. Later we finally discovered the valve under the bathroom sink behind the water pump that you can't visually see. We pumped more antifreeze though the system and it works correctly. Our more difficult issue was draining the water heater. We used the bypass to ensure no antifreeze got in heater but could only drain water using top release valve. We finally were able to get a large enough fitting to remove the bolt at the bottom that holds the heating element and it didn't seem to have anymore water. Does anyone know an easier way or is there another easy to drain the water heater?
First off all, that's an anode rod, not a heating element. It's something you'll want to remove and inspect at least 1 or 2 times a year. It will eventually wear out. So having the tools and know-how to take it out is a good thing.

Second, removing the anode rod really is the fastest way to drain the WH.

Lastly, that valve at the top is the pressure release valve. You want to use that to be sure there is no pressure built up in the WH before you take the anode rod out. If you don't, you'll certainly get an unexpected shower.
__________________

Iwritecode is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2015, 12:31 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 13,930
You should have a (Knowledgeable RV Person) check what you have done for Winterizing! I say this to Save you many $$$! It sounds like you were Trying but I am sure you may have Missed something! You will sleep much better knowing how and what to do Properly! Youroo!!
youroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2015, 02:16 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 108
Thanks for the replies and the tt is going to the shop for warranty work Monday so we'll have them double check. I figured I'd ask the forum because so far I've received excellent advice and we thought removing the anode was the correct way to remove the water. When we did remove it, there didn't seem to be any water left. We wanted to be sure there was not another valve to drain the water so you all have confirmed our suspicions and we will review with dealer as well.
dkkirkland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 02:03 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Cheney, Washington
Posts: 179
It's been my experience that if I open the low point drains for the water lines before removing the anode rod on the water tank that there is very little or no water in the water tank. The water must have somehow drained out through the low point drain.

This was my first year to use the antifreeze inlet. I used a short hose with a male hose adapter. That end of the hose connects to the inlet and the other end is placed in the antifreeze jug. You need to turn a valve by the water pump to keep the antifreeze from going into the fresh water tank. I turned on the pump and opened one valve in the TT at a time to pump antifreeze into the lines. It worked great!
__________________
2020 Rockwood 2608BS
2017 Wildcat Maxx 26BHS
2016 Rockwood MiniLite 2503S (2015-2016)
2012 Ford F-150 Eco-Boost
OscarsMom2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 02:04 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 45
We have an 2618 UltraV which may be a little different than your unit. I would think that you would have a separate inlet for the antifreeze and not have to use the city water connection. With city water I don't know how you would get enough pressure to get the antifreeze in your lines without a pump. Our inlet is located at the very back of the unit and is close to the water pump. The first time I tried to use it there wasn't enough suction to pull the antifreeze out of the jug. It helped a lot to raise the jug up to the level of inlet and use a short hose and then it siphoned out pretty well.
UltraV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 02:09 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
redcloud1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 314
I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.
redcloud1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 02:42 PM   #8
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcloud1 View Post
I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.
That's usually not recommended. You'll have to do some serious flushing out to get it all out in the spring.

Typically even if there is a small amount left in the tank, there's plenty of room for it to expand and not crack the water heater. It's pretty rare for a tank to crack unless it wasn't drained at all.
Iwritecode is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 03:20 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 108
We did end up using the antifreeze inlet, it just took a lot of searching to find the valve to allow the inlet to work. It ended up being behind the pump under the bathroom sink and was difficult to see. Once we used the valve, the antifreeze pumped great through the system. You are right that it will not pump from the city water inlet.
dkkirkland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 03:22 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 284
Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?
stantyszka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 03:25 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 108
To Oscarsmom2, I think you are right about the low water drain because there wasn't any water in the water heater when we finally got the anode out so that is helpful to know as well
dkkirkland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 03:56 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Capt. Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Franklin County, MO
Posts: 2,382
Quote:
Originally Posted by stantyszka View Post
Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?
I leave the anode rod out all winter. I've never had any "critters"get into the water heater. It is COLD in there during the winter...no reason for them to get in the heater.
__________________
Mike and Yvonne
and Sophie, the little white dog
2017 Columbus 320RSC
2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax 4X4
ďIt's not how old you are, it's how you are old.ĒJules Renard
"It's not the years...it's the mileage." - Indiana Jones
Capt. Mike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 09:07 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
buffalohunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Martinez, CA
Posts: 352
All this just makes me not feel as bad as I normally do about living in California. Then again the lower cost of living out of CA would offset the cost of having a service tech do the job of winterizing the TT.

Happy Holidays to you all.
__________________
2012 Rockwood Windjammer 3008 W
2020 Tundra Dbl Cab 4X4 SR5
buffalohunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2015, 10:53 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 108
You should try living in Washington DC suburbs, it's just about as expensive as living in CA plus having to winterize
dkkirkland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2015, 10:47 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
RusLwt001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Dacula GA
Posts: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkkirkland View Post
We did end up using the antifreeze inlet, it just took a lot of searching to find the valve to allow the inlet to work. It ended up being behind the pump under the bathroom sink and was difficult to see. Once we used the valve, the antifreeze pumped great through the system. You are right that it will not pump from the city water inlet.
Which way should the valve be turned? I have a lever on the outside of my Windjammer 3025W marked "Winterize"; Do I still have to open or close the valve that feeds into the Water Purifier? I have removed the cartridge. I just can't figure out what to do with that valve. The only valve I see next to the pump appears to feed directly to the purifier. I am a little lost on this issue.
RusLwt001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2015, 01:11 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 108
We pumped antifreeze through the water purifier (without the filter). We don't have a valve on the outside of the trailer to winterize, only an inlet for the antifreeze. The valve next to our pump (inside the trailer under the bathroom sink) allowed the outside inlet for winterizing to pump the antifreeze though the system. Without turning the valve, the outside inlet wouldn't suck antifreeze into the system at all. We also talked to dealer yesterday and they said to leave the anode rod out the water heater during the winter.
dkkirkland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2015, 03:04 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
RusLwt001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Dacula GA
Posts: 467
Thank you. Going to finish this job tonight. Just another excuse to see the windjammer.
__________________
Russ
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3025W
Diamond Package
2016 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi 4x4
RusLwt001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 04:17 AM   #18
Just a member
 
kandl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 907
Quote:
Originally Posted by OscarsMom2 View Post
It's been my experience that if I open the low point drains for the water lines before removing the anode rod on the water tank that there is very little or no water in the water tank. The water must have somehow drained out through the low point drain.
Caution: If you open the low point drains without isolating the HWT (winterizing bypass), sludge/sediment from the HWT can and will be drawn into the RV's plumbing. It can thereafter be a PITA to clean it out.
__________________
K&L + the Wild Bunch
TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge Ram 3500

kandl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 04:32 AM   #19
Just a member
 
kandl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 907
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcloud1 View Post
I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.
The bypass system is there to prevent antifreeze from getting into the HWT. I suspect the dealer with the split tank demo was spinning some yarn. The tank was likely left to freeze while partially full.
__________________
K&L + the Wild Bunch
TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge Ram 3500

kandl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 04:43 AM   #20
Just a member
 
kandl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 907
Quote:
Originally Posted by stantyszka View Post
Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?
Always. There are no critters of concern when we hit -30 and then some. Some suggest leaving the anode out to let the residual H2O evaporate so that the HWT doesn't get damaged when it freezes. Truth is, the residual water, once frozen, will not damage the tank.
__________________

__________________
K&L + the Wild Bunch
TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge Ram 3500

kandl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
3008w, drain, heater, water, water heater, windjammer, winter, winterize

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:10 PM.


×