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Old 08-04-2011, 12:31 PM   #21
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also, u want to use the proper grease. that is listed on that axle post as well. grease is not all the same. u want to meet or exceed the temp spec.
if u do flush ur hubs with new grease, check the color and consistency of the grease that comes out just before the new shows up. should not be near liquid. grease may discolor but shouldn't break down.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:14 PM   #22
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I got the trailer on the jack today and tried to check the brakes and failed ..... I just couldn;t get the caps off the spindle. I did not want to break or damage them as I was not sure how they would come out ? How do I take them out so that I can remvoe the hun and have a peek at my breaks. I figured this out, you gently beat them to submission with a piece of wood against them while trotating them Sigh .... my first instincts were right, use the hammer


On the other hand, I was able to put fresh grease into the bearings while the wheelks were up. The old grease looked too soft and and as if it was not so greasy anymore. I used a tube of grease (slowly) per side making sure that all nice red grease came out. It took quite a few pumps before any grease would come out. I did turn the wheel as I was puping. We seemed to be rolling a tad better after the grease operation.


How do I decide what kind of bearings seals etc I buy. There are complete sets of them available and I want to be able to get the proper one. If I open a hub, I want to change everything in there ...

Self adjusting brakes .... I read that some people installed them. Are they available only from Alko for our trailers ?


Thanks for all the help ...
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:14 AM   #23
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The grease caps are easy to remove-------

First off the grease caps are easy to remove. Measure the diameter of the grease cups (the part with the rubber plug). Go to your local auto parts store, in the exhaust / muffler section select a short exhaust adapter pipe (usually about 6"-10" long) . It will fit over the grease cup snugly. To remove the cup, place the adapter over the cup, wiggle it back and forth to remove the cup. To install the cup, reverse the removal procedure. Place the adapter over the grease cup, using a mallet to drive the grease cup back into place. This prevents deforming the grease cup, by beating on it with a hammer. If you can't find the adapter, go to your local Midas muffler (or any muffler shop) ask for a short piece of exhaust pipe (about 10"-12" long) Have the shop to use their expander tool to stretch the exhaust pipe to fit snugly over your grease cup (presto, a special tool you now have)

Wheel bearing seals are in most marine/ auto parts store. You will have to take a brake drum with you or remove the seal to use for dimension or sample to get the correct size. The marine seals can be purchased with a double seal ( keeps the water out and grease in) The seals are easy to change, easy to remove with a small pry bar or large screw driver. To install the new seal, use a block of wood, tap slowly, evenly until it is seated the same depth as the one you removed.

If the grease is showing signs of metal shavings in the old grease, you should replace the old bearings. As stated in a early post, the best bearing are TIMKEM bearings.
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:45 AM   #24
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i'll have to remember that on the dust cap. sounds like a better method than i use. i use a chissle or a thin flat blade screw driver and put it between the cap and hub and gently tap then rotate and tap to get the cap off. mine looked like that wouldn't work...no gap...but i kept doing it and soon they came off.

on the grease, now that u have it in there, ur problem may be solved. i would try pulling a few miles and see if the temp changed. if u didn't feel anything rubbing, ur brakes are probably still intact. may just be grease. the bearings will take some abuse without damage. oh, if the grease solves ur problem don't forget to pump into the others. abt every 2 to 6 pulls, i'd pump 2 squirts in ea hub just as a little insurance.
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:40 AM   #25
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Front wheels are still hotter then the rear wheels. So I have to get the drum out and check the brakes. But, first I will try to adjust the rear wheels and see if that makes any difference.
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:35 AM   #26
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noticably hotter...inspect the brake wiring and make sure the rear axle hasen't become disconnected. on an older trailer that i had, that happened; didn't seem to make a lot of difference with my older trailer but a lot of difference on the present one on stopping power. older one was less than half the weight of this one.
something i didn't do when i pulled my wheels was to make note of "as found". wish i had snugged the nut and made note of the amt of travel. i would have returned it to that when i reassembled.
so far so good with the backing off 1/4 then enough to get the pin in.
the front tires may be the ones doing the slip when u turn. one set of them has to.
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:29 AM   #27
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Just got back from a trip to NY.
Five hours of high speed driving 65-70 MPH (traffic was insane) and all four hubs were cool to the touch (not even warmer than air temp).
Tires were actually warmer to the touch than the hubs.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Just got back from a trip to NY.
Five hours of high speed driving 65-70 MPH (traffic was insane) and all four hubs were cool to the touch (not even warmer than air temp).
Tires were actually warmer to the touch than the hubs.
wow...my tires were hot before i even hooked up yesterday.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:44 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimh View Post
wow...my tires were hot before i even hooked up yesterday.
Jim, I was not trying a "My hubs are cooler than your hubs" poke; but a point of reference to those who have hot hubs after a short tow.

Anytime your hubs "get hot" to the touch you need to find out why. This is especially important if one or two are hotter than the others.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:55 AM   #30
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I would think that the front axle bearings/hub being hot more than the rear may be a nose down condition. Having more weight forward and very little rear.

Do you have picture of your rig hooked up to your truck fromthe side?
Is it level or leaning forward towards the truck?
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:52 AM   #31
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enjoyed it herk. just trying to say it was hot here yesterday and expected to be another hot day today. My tires were anticipating the trip.

i kept trying to read in the the goomph's original post that he was talking abt his hubs being hot. it appears it is his tires. now i'm going with the other posters abt load. may even be normal. could be brakes taking additional load. believe goomph will find the answer to if the brakes are the cause. can't really think of anything else that would be common to both wheels on the same axle.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:59 AM   #32
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Herk had his landing gear down----------

HERK, had his landing gear down all the way back from NY. He has at least learned something from his flying days.


GEAR DOWN while flying, COOL!
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:26 PM   #33
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NOT the GEAR DOWN but his AIR Speed Brake.
Or maybe it was his cargo door left open.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:35 PM   #34
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Well, I have flown around with the cargo door open while sight seeing and looking for whales off the coast of CA and had to fly home with the gear chained down once (a six hour depressurized and VERY noisy, cold flight as I recall).

Trust me, driving a GMC 2500 while towing a camper is much easier.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:46 PM   #35
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Trailer has a VERY SLIGHT nose down attitude .... maybe an inch difference between the rear and front, I can't recall exactly.

The hubs/drums are hot .... not the tires .... I am measuring the drum temperature directly.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:48 PM   #36
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The bearings will be changed unconditionally at my next camping trip ....
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:11 PM   #37
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Well, just an update on this ...

I took the hubs out and changed the bearings and seals while I was at it, cheap insurance. The rear brakes were not braking properly if barely at all .... I adjusted all four brakes after installing the hubs back. It was fun stopping a few times every 20 miles and checking the hub temperatures. We made it back home with all four hubs being pretty much the equal temperature (except when they were directed to direct sunlight).

I was very worried that I would have messed something up during the bearing change but obviously I did good

Thanks for all the help and suggestions !
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