2nd time trailer brakes have failed

[Anchor RVers]

Have a '21 Wolfpack 325 pack 13 and today is the second time the trailer brakes have failed. First time was after about a week of driving moving from Rhode Island to Colorado. Found a camping world that got us right in. 6 hours later and all new brake assemblies because the factory installed were missing the magnet clips and several of the wiring harnesses were completely worn.

Have only driven another couple hundred miles on the "new" brakes and they failed again.

Anyone else experience this issue on the wolfpacks? Had to get it towed and will be out of commission for at least 2 weeks. I expect it will be covered under warranty like the last set, but this is not a common fail item right?

[5picker]

What has "failed"?
What you described is uncommon.
Did pieces from the backing plate come off and are rolling/rattling around inside the drum(s) or do you simply have no trailer brake assist?

How was it towed? Did they put your trailer on another trailer or flatbed of some sort?

[Anchor RVers]

Not sure what failed. A wire on the passenger side had come loose of its connection and one on the driver's side had severed. I reconnected them both while parked at Lowe's but it did not clear the fault.

Last time the holding clips for the magnets were improperly/never installed and the assemblies were free floating. I did not hear anything rattling while driving and did not take a tire off to check any further.

They used a heavy wrecker. I told them no brake assist from the trailer so they brought the big one out to control the rig.

[5er_tom]

A good final solution is upgrading to disk brakes. Pricey, but they are 100% better than drum brakes.

[rsdata]

Those wire connections are very sloppy where they enter the brake assembly... I dressed mine up with wire loom and zip ties to keep them from severing...

A second "complete brake failure" has to be laid at the feet of the last installer.

There is nothing special about an RV brake assembly that it has to go to an RV dealer...

call a mobile RV tech OR take it to an tire/brake shop and have them look at it.

[5picker]

It's hard for us to visualize what 'may' have happened the first time as Campers World is known for replacing things not needed when the repair is quite simple.

Nonetheless, it sounds as though you had some wiring issues then and you mentioned wires this time and a fault code. The mention of no noise appears that it doesn't sound mechanical, it sounds electrical.

What is your tow vehicle?

I wish you luck, especially if you've had it towed to CW again.

[railroaderone]

camping world is at fault for this failure. I've towed multiple trailers with electric brakes and this type of stuff is usual

[timfromma]

This is why it's important to have a tow vehicle properly sized for the camper you are towing. I completed a 2 week, 5000 mile trip with my camper without even realizing my trailer brakes had failed. My truck was able to control the camper even on some pretty steep grades perfectly with zero trailer brake assist.

[rsdata]

2 week, 5000 mile trip with my camper without even realizing my trailer brakes had failed.

sounds as if you never had the trailer brakes adjusted properly... I would notice almost immediately if I had no trailer brakes...

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Anchor RVers

Not sure what failed. A wire on the passenger side had come loose of its connection and one on the driver's side had severed. I reconnected them both while parked at Lowe's but it did not clear the fault.

It sounds like there may well have been a problem with the wire lengths and routing. The wires need to have enough slack in order for the suspension to travel it's full amount without pulling loose/breaking. Also, they need to be routed in a manner they aren't pinched and severed when a large bump is hit and the axle's U-bolts or other parts contact the frame.

Some installers and repair people fail to look ahead and allow for both these conditions, just running wire from point "A" to point "B".

[Anchor RVers]

So have been able to take the rig out twice. Final determination...2 wires had disconnected, but the real issue was with the pig tail.

RAM has an advisory out that trucks 2018 and newer need to use the Hopkins single blade 7-pin connector vice the standard Curt double blade. Apparently it has to do with contact area and maintaining stable voltage. I found this info on the RAM forum. Bought the cable from Lowe's, rewired, and have not had a problem since.

Was able to clear up and over Monarch Pass over the 4th and everything worked great. Hope this is the last issue with brakes till I upgrade to disc.

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by 5er_tom

A good final solution is upgrading to disk brakes. Pricey, but they are 100% better than drum brakes.

X2. And, they are a backup in case the tow vehicle brakes fail.