Hitch height on a f250

[R1campr]

Hi all, anyone here have an f250 4x4 they use to tow a 25rr? With a weight distribution system? My weight distribution system is an ez something, forgot exactly what the name is and am not where its at right now. Anyhow, I have to jack it way up using a 6x6 block of wood to get the bars on, any more and it looks like the back tires on the truck will be off the ground. The bars are now slightly bowed when not on, and when its all hooked up and i turn a corner, they squeak pretty loud. When the truck and trailer are on a level surface, the truck is level and the trailer is slightly tilted up in the front but almost level. The L shaped hitch bracket is in the up position and the hitch is using the bottom holes.
Has anyone with an f250 and EZ WD turned that bracket upside down and got a better alignment with the truck and trailer? Now it seems the hitch is too high for the 25rr. The rv dealer set this up for me when we bought the 25rr.

[R1campr]

Am gonna try and post a pic of tv and th, not a good pic but the only one i got

[ironj]

cant see your hitch, but you need it in the drop position....if i remember correctly mine was in the second to last set of holes in the drop postion...

you want the trailer level or slightly nose down once the bars are on...and yes....they creak/pop/complain when you turn...just make sure the chains are perpendicular to the ground and not slanted

these trucks, especially the 4x4 350s sit real REAL high in the rear....

let us know if you have any specific questions


good luck

jeremy

[ironj]

also, depending on how the truck/trailer was parked getting the bars back on has nearly lifted my truck as well...especially if one of the tires is in a hole or dip....

[R1campr]

Ironj, when you said drop position, do you mean the L shaped bracket of the hitch is pointing down? I just remembered, it is an equalizer hitch, the stabilizer/weight distribution bars set on brackets bolted to the th frame, no chains involved except the safety chains

[avolnek]

If you style of hitch has washers in between the hitch ball assembly and the shank I would suggest removing a washer or two until you are comfortable with the tension on the bars and how level your rig is. Each washer added into that assembly tilts the ball rearward which in return tilts the load bars down creating more pressure to create more weight distribution as well as more friction which means more sway control.

Better pictures of the hitch assembly would surely help!


Creaking/moaning/groaning from this style of hitch is normal!

[R1campr]

It does have good sway control. Will try turning that bracket upside down first, i can live with the noise to get good sway control

[avolnek]

Originally Posted by R1campr

It does have good sway control. Will try turning that bracket upside down first, i can live with the noise to get good sway control

WHOA WHOA!!!!

What bracket are you turning upside down!?

The L brackets are supposed to have the short part of the bracket the load bar rides on hang down.

The picture I attached is similar to how yours should look!

The load bars should be pretty much parallel with the frame of the camper when hooked up as well!

[R1campr]

The l bracket i am talking about goes into the reciever part of the hitch, it is about 2 inches square steel. And the ball assembly bolts to it. The ball assembly is in the lowest holes, but i am guessing is still is too high for the trailer. I will have to check if the bars are paralell to the frame next time i hook up

[bbritt18]

I believe R1camper was talking about the hitch shank as the L part to flip over.

[ironj]

I was talking about the hitch head itself...and its orientation in the reciever....the brackets and stuff all stay the SAME..you want to set your load bars based off of the vehicle axle weights if possible...but yes...the bars themselves should be parallel to the camper frame when hitched...

sent from fat fingers via a space dish thing with no regard to grammer.

[avolnek]

Originally Posted by R1campr

The l bracket i am talking about goes into the reciever part of the hitch, it is about 2 inches square steel. And the ball assembly bolts to it. The ball assembly is in the lowest holes, but i am guessing is still is too high for the trailer.

I follow! My apologies! If for some reason you still can't get enough drop out of the shank Etrailer has great selection for longer shanks, and that is what you may require.

Curt Weight Distribution Shank - 10,000 lbs Curt Accessories and Parts 17120

I purchased this for my 2006 ram So I can get my trailer to sit slightly nose down. With the shank that came with it mine would sit a little bit nose high.

[ironj]

I was referring to the position of the shank...this l shaped part..the it needs to point down.

sent from fat fingers via a space dish thing with no regard to grammer.

[Brother Les]

From glancing at your picture, your ball is a little to high (front end of your trailer is too high) and your ball may be slanted back toward the trailer to far (causing the tightness and hard lift on the bars when pulling up). It looks as if you will need to point the L down in order to gain the holes you need to lower the ball.

Equal-i-zer Sway Control Trailer Hitch Installation Video - YouTube

[ChooChooMan74]

http://fileresource.sitepro.com/file...A789BC2FAC.jpg

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[R1campr]

Yay, i guess its called a hitch shank, and needs to be turned down. I should have asked for instructions from the dealer when they put the hitch on and did the setup. Now its obvious its not set up right. That video helps a lot, now i understand what to do. Ive been using a 6 inch block and the whole range of the tongue jack to hook up, and to be able to get the truck and trailer high enough to force the sway bars on. And getting them off, ive been using a pry bar a small sledge hammer, and anything i could find to get leverage for the pry bar, i even bent a large screw driver just to nudge them a little. Thanks everyone

[avolnek]

It is still recommended that the load bars are tight enough that you would have to use the tool to pry them into place for adequate weight distribution and sway control primarily.

[ironj]

Yeah...just start all over ...take it apart flip the shank and reset the height....it will still take some liftingnof the truck depending on how much tongue weight you got...my hitch head is on the lowest holes now and i have all 7 washers on for tilt....so it takes some lift to get enough tension off so I can put bars on.....even then it still lifts high enough to do it with my hands if I crank it way up...I still have to use the yellow tongue cone (about 7-8inches tall) to get the right lift...it was a 6" block before. ..so youll still need that.....

sent from fat fingers via a space dish thing with no regard to grammer.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by R1campr

Yay, i guess its called a hitch shank, and needs to be turned down. I should have asked for instructions from the dealer when they put the hitch on and did the setup. Now its obvious its not set up right. That video helps a lot, now i understand what to do. Ive been using a 6 inch block and the whole range of the tongue jack to hook up, and to be able to get the truck and trailer high enough to force the sway bars on. And getting them off, ive been using a pry bar a small sledge hammer, and anything i could find to get leverage for the pry bar, i even bent a large screw driver just to nudge them a little. Thanks everyone

You have a great weight distribution system, but as you have come to realize, it may not have been set up correctly. It sounds to the point of being danger-es. You or someone else could have been hurt very badly trying to leverage the bars in place. The stress is also hard on your equipment and would be a hazard to drive with the weight thrown so hard to your front wheels and the back of the camper and the camper sitting to high. You have good sway control with your system, but it would seem as if it would want to sway like crazy. Glad your now on the right track to get it straightened out.

Let us know how it works out.