New 2016 Grey Wolf 22RR Model Question

[Fusionak]

Originally Posted by youroo

Good Deal,I see you installed a (MaxAir Fanmate)! Your ahead of most! Youroo!!

Holy Cow Youroo... Good eye!!! That's impressive

[Fusionak]

Originally Posted by ACE110

Congrats on your new TT.

Don't wait to long on the surge protector. I did, & it cost me a TV, converter & microwave.

Thanks ACE110, I will order one right away due to your advice!

[moligney]

Well I take delivery of my 26RR Wednesday after selling my Wp22 Noting the issues voiced here and those I have heard from others I am concerned about the "China Bombs". It appears the 26RR has 205 75R14 Load range C speed rating L installed x 4. Can't find the manufacturer for sure but the specs on another supposedly comparable tire list the max weight at 1764 x 4 or 7056 lbs max. Now the 26RR as listed dry as 5120 and 7715 lbs GVWR. Did I miss something? With a 900 lb bike I expect to be right around 7000 normal loading Not much margin.
To compound matters when I look up same size Load Range D the only reputable manufacture I see is Kenda.

[RiderBloke]

They depend on the fact that 800-900lbs is actually on the hitch ball so not on the tires. [emoji107]🏽
I too have searched and Kenda seems to be a good choice. The alternative discussed in other posts is to change the rims to 15" to give a wider choice with higher load ratings. Whatever you do put a TPMS on. Mine has been very good. They don't catch every blow out before it happens but they give you a fighting chance.
BTW: I have had mine weighed and was pleasantly surprised that I am well within specs and that will be true even when I add the bike in. The only weight approaching the limit was the hitch weight but the bike in the rear will decrease that somewhat.
Enjoy the trailer, it's a great choice. IMHO.


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[Fusionak]

Hey Guys, I'm going to winterize the trailer this weekend and have a couple of questions. I've looked through the winterize topic threads but didn't answer a couple of questions that I had. Specifically for the 22RR since it's a new floor plan. I imagine it's a similar setup to other Grey Wolf RR's.

1) Is the water pump underneath my bathroom sink? I guess I'll have to take a few screws off to find out this weekend. Does the pump come prepared to winterize, does it have a hose I can unclamp to stick it in an Anti-Freeze bottle like my old trailer? Or do I have to buy some items to do it?

2) There is a valve underneath my fresh water tank that is leaking. Is this my fresh water drain valve??? Kind of in an awkward place since I have to crawl under behind the tires to get at it. My old trailer had a spout on the side of the trailer, it was much easier. There also seems to be a leak coming from the valve. I've tried tightening it as much as I can (by hand, don't want to involve tools as I don't want it to break) but there seems to be a slow drip. As you can see in the picture, the left dongle is starting to drip. What is the other dongle beside it? I assume the one on the very right (the soft rubber one) is the fresh water overflow. But what is the other one for?

3) Are the "low point" drains, the red and blue lines, just used to drain the hot water tank lines? Do I still need to unscrew the bolt on the outside of the hot water tank as well as opening up the low point drains?

Thanks everyone!!

[Sockman]

I'm sure someone will chime in, but here's what I do. I don't pump the lines full of antifreeze. I blow the lines out. I drain the fresh water tank and leave the plug out during the winter. I bypass the hot water heater, and then drain the tank as well (taking out the plug and just leaving it set in there loosely all winter). I bought the little $10 air hose attachment and screw it into the city water connection and then make sure all the faucets are blown out with the air compressor. The only antifreeze I use is poured down the sinks, shower, and toilet. Never had a problem. Just remember to blow out any outside shower or hose.

[Fusionak]

Hey Sockman, I've read that in a few places. Does it matter that I live in Canada where the temp can get below -30 Celsius (-22 F I think). Do the lines not require an anti-freeze liquid to keep them from cracking? Or is it that if there is water, it can expand and crack the pipes?

If I was to do it that way, I would just need a air hose adapter for the city water intake, oh, and an air pump...

[Sockman]

I don't live in Canada, but it gets below freezing here, and stays there for several months. As long as there is no water in the lines, there should be no need to worry about them. You just have to make sure that all air is blown out. Lots of folks like the extra security of having antifreeze in the lines, and that's cool, I just find it unnecessary. And yes, you'll need an air compressor. Don't forget to blow the lines out of the shower and the toilet as well. It's pretty easy once you've done it once. And when spring rolls around, it's as easy as putting some plugs back in, and it's ready to go. Hopefully some folks from further up north will respond and confirm this is ok for your area.

[RiderBloke]

Just attended a seminar by a GeneralRV expert and he said blowing out the lines is not the best way as it does not fully clear the water out of the pump, and too high a pressure can ruin some of the valves in the system. He prefers antifreeze sucked in by the pump but not put in the tank. I haven't yet lived through a winter with an RV but my solution this year is to take it to Florida. [emoji38]


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[Sockman]

My dealer blows them out and showed me how to do it. You just gotta lower the line pressure on the compressor.

[moligney]

If you are going to blow them out make sure to empty the small filter bowl in front of pump under the sink.

[Sockman]

Yep, and if you have that filter, spin that sucker off and leave it off. I empty it first, then put it back on before blowing out the lines, then I leave it off during the winter. I replace that filter every year anyway. Any water in the pump drains back into the freshwater tank. Forgot about that.

[Fusionak]

Sounds good guys, thanks for the advice!!

[zuterbru]

I live in Colorado and have just blown the lines out without any problems, I have seen -25. If there is water lying in the lines and it freezes, it wont hurt anything. It is when the line is full of water, in a low spot or at a fitting, it freezes and expands that it will crack the line. So, if you blow the lines out you are minimizing this possibility. I had the winterizing setup on my old camper so running anti freeze was simple to do. After blowing it out I would suck in some of the antifreeze just for the benefit of the pump. You should be able to get away with just blowing it out and pulling off the lines from the pump, run the pump for a second, put them back on to make sure it is not full of water. With my new rig I have not seen how it is setup yet. When you blow it out, set the regulator at 40PSI. I did make my own air hose adapter. It has a QD on it and is all brass. I just took a male and female air hose QD, went to home depot and got the fittings to adapt it to a hose male fitting. Camping world now sells one similar to what I made 13 years ago: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...out-hose/69232

[Fusionak]

Originally Posted by zuterbru

I live in Colorado and have just blown the lines out without any problems, I have seen -25. If there is water lying in the lines and it freezes, it wont hurt anything. It is when the line is full of water, in a low spot or at a fitting, it freezes and expands that it will crack the line. So, if you blow the lines out you are minimizing this possibility. I had the winterizing setup on my old camper so running anti freeze was simple to do. After blowing it out I would suck in some of the antifreeze just for the benefit of the pump. You should be able to get away with just blowing it out and pulling off the lines from the pump, run the pump for a second, put them back on to make sure it is not full of water. With my new rig I have not seen how it is setup yet. When you blow it out, set the regulator at 40PSI. I did make my own air hose adapter. It has a QD on it and is all brass. I just took a male and female air hose QD, went to home depot and got the fittings to adapt it to a hose male fitting. Camping world now sells one similar to what I made 13 years ago: Blow Out Hose - Direcsource Ltd TS-N19 - Winterizing - Camping World

Awesome, thanks for that. It seems it will be a bit easier to blow the air out then running anti-freeze...

[Toothpick]

Boy! I'm glad I live in SEGA and don't have to worry about winterizing.....

[Fusionak]

Originally Posted by mele

Boy! I'm glad I live in SEGA and don't have to worry about winterizing.....

[cmcd]

hey there, I am from Ontario Canada
Depends on additional fees, if they are adding freight and PDI to that price plus taxes...not such a great deal
If freight and PDI is included then not a bad price
Us dollar to Canadian dollar is killing us....about 1.3-1.35 exchange rate
Awesome product with great floor plan
I am in process of purchasing one myself right now, have done alot of research and the Grey Wolf toy hauler is really good bang for your buck

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Fusionak

Hey Guys, I'm going to winterize the trailer this weekend and have a couple of questions. I've looked through the winterize topic threads but didn't answer a couple of questions that I had. Specifically for the 22RR since it's a new floor plan. I imagine it's a similar setup to other Grey Wolf RR's.

1) Is the water pump underneath my bathroom sink? I guess I'll have to take a few screws off to find out this weekend. Does the pump come prepared to winterize, does it have a hose I can unclamp to stick it in an Anti-Freeze bottle like my old trailer? Or do I have to buy some items to do it?

2) There is a valve underneath my fresh water tank that is leaking. Is this my fresh water drain valve??? Kind of in an awkward place since I have to crawl under behind the tires to get at it. My old trailer had a spout on the side of the trailer, it was much easier. There also seems to be a leak coming from the valve. I've tried tightening it as much as I can (by hand, don't want to involve tools as I don't want it to break) but there seems to be a slow drip. As you can see in the picture, the left dongle is starting to drip. What is the other dongle beside it? I assume the one on the very right (the soft rubber one) is the fresh water overflow. But what is the other one for?

3) Are the "low point" drains, the red and blue lines, just used to drain the hot water tank lines? Do I still need to unscrew the bolt on the outside of the hot water tank as well as opening up the low point drains?

Thanks everyone!!

If it's just the cap thats leaking you can cut it out and install a ball valve

[Sockman]

I take the rod out of the hot water tank just to be sure it is empty for the winter. Then I just barely screw it back in to keep critters out.