New 2020 Grey Wolf 22RR - Question

[Stratplexi]

Hello all,
Just bought a new 22RR as our first camper. I want to safely haul my Harley. The 6 d-rings look a little flimsy and I want to add a removable wheel chock. I don’t see any access to the underside of the flooring. There is a plastic sheathing that is covering the entire underside. Any ideas on how to remove this or gain access to the flooring? Thank you

[CincyGus]

If you are wanting something removable, Why mount it? Look at a no-drill option. Something like this:

https://www.discountramps.com/black-...YaAm2TEALw_wcB

A couple ratchet straps to hold it in place, a couple to hold the bike from backing up out of the chock and hold it in place and you should be good to go. Tie Downs have ratings all over the place depending on the manufacture. I don't remember what the ones in my Wolfpack are but it was significantly more than I was ever going to put on them with a 1000 lb golf cart as long as I used multiple straps, which I do.

That said, If you want to bolt through the floor, The coroplast you're seeing underneath can be dropped by removing the self tapping screws in it that are screwed into the frame and cross members. May still have to dig through some insulation or other situations to get a backer plate and use a bolt through process but I'm sure someone has done it.

[Timmytim]

I'm in the same boat. Looking for creative ways to load 2 sport bikes into this bad boy. have a few ideas but access to the underside is preventing a few of them. Would like to add a few additional tie-down points but don't want to risk puncturing something in the floor. Is there a "blueprint' of this model anywhere showing routing of plumbing/wiring under the floor?

[Daddyray]

I am buying a 25rrtbl and have the same style issue. I came up with an idea to strap my Can Am Spyder in with. I plan on backing it in. I am looking really serious at getting a 1 1/2" square tube steel tube long enough to go from one D ring to the other at the back of the trailer. With the Spyder I want to pull straight on the front tires to secure it and I plan on securing to the bar on each side of the bike. I will be using the back 2 D rings for the back tire to be secured too. I hope this idea will either help or give you a helpful idea. I plan on using a small piece of 2x4 under the tube to raise it. Then secure the tube to the D rings with a u shaped bracket.

[Timmytim]

Here is what I figured out. Gret service from Bolt It On. Check them out. Had to run the bar at an angle so he made some 45's for me to use. Works great.

[Daddyray]

That is pretty much what I will be making. The only difference is my bike will sit further away from the bar and use ratchet straps around the tire, then to the bar. Thank you, as if what I plan on doing doesn't work I will look at that.

[JumpinJack]

Yeah those D rings in the unit aren't worth a damn. The ends are not even welded together. There are a lot of threads on here with different solutions if you go to the search box...... I used better D rings almost same location and put metal plate underneath floor. The factory D rings are just screwed into a 2x4 ..... https://www.locknloadwheelchocks.com/ some stuff maybe helpful. I had already bought the whole system but opted not to use the plate for front wheel , I am going to get the removable chock...... did not want to be stubbing toe on the mounted plate.... GL. Ohh yeah the straps on here are self tightening once they are set if bike rocks they tighten kind of like a seat belt.

[Jetlag_bc]

For the lighter motorcycle I made this frame to attach the wheel chock to the D-rings. I might make a stronger smaller frame (not as wide) and move it more forward so the heavier motorcycle can be more over the axles. It will be a tighter fit between the fridge and sink so I'm going to check the tongue weight to see if I can use the original location. The wheel chock will be removable so it can be installed on the other frame or if I don't need to make a second frame just make it lighter to remove/install.
Going to install better/extra D-rings for the straps.

[rdmjohnstons]

I know that you have likely solved your issue but I thought I would share what I have done. Haven't towed yet, just set it up today as a dry run but am pretty confident that it will work. Set my HF wheel chock at the front d rings in the kitchen. Ran soft straps from the d-ring through the eyebolt on the chock then ran a rachet strap between the soft straps. Chock is rock solid. Once the bike is in the Choc 1500# straps between the front d rings and the fender support. One strap on the back just to stabilize and we are done. Can't wait to do it for real.

[Daddyray]

Here is a way to add more tie down points in a toy hauler. What I have made can be adjusted shorter and moved to anywhere in the area with 2 d rings. I hope this helps a it works real well for my Spyder so as I get a straight pull on my wheels.

[Jamesgam]

Originally Posted by Daddyray

Here is a way to add more tie down points in a toy hauler. What I have made can be adjusted shorter and moved to anywhere in the area with 2 d rings. I hope this helps a it works real well for my Spyder so as I get a straight pull on my wheels.

Off subject. The table in the 22RR is big and bulky, did you change the base on yours?

[Daddyray]

No, I still have the bulky table. What I do is lower it and if you look at my picture you will see I have it tied up against the bottom of the seat that folds. Then I put a cushion on top of it so one less cushion to worry about. For me it works real well.

[Jamesgam]

Ah ok, I see that now.

Thanks

[atkbike]

I have a Wild Wood FSX 260RT and I use the Pingel wheel chock. It can be removed by 1 thumb screw and the brackets are flat. I put a 6x6 under the frame and pull down solid to the block so there is no suspension give. I also use soft straps on the bike. I haul a Street Glide with no issues at all.