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Old 11-20-2015, 03:08 PM   #21
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I made my WP22 ramp into a party deck by adding two chains to support it. Alternately you could support it from below with two stands. I really did not use it enough to warrant the trouble. Also on a post several months ago most people that commented said the same.
That being said I have two stands on board that would hold it up should I be backed up against a beach this winter but guess I would have to skip the cocktails. (No guard rails)
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:57 PM   #22
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It is the gates and sides that I would want the most. It would give the dogs a larger and roomier space to hang out in. I don't ever see using it as a patio. That is what the awning and firepit are for.
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Old 11-20-2015, 04:08 PM   #23
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Emm-dee: Yup! You got us all excited. I would love to have this option on my 26rr. Actually, my dogs would love this option on my 26rr. One of these days I will upgrade. For now, ......
I looked at the 26RR mainly because it had the same floorplan as the Vengeance. I had narrowed my search to those two units because of the separate bedroom feature (usually only available in 5th wheel units).

The patio rail system was also a requirement for me (or, as others have mentioned, for the dogs). I had a couple of dealers tell me that FR included the patio system at no charge on all Vengeance units that were ordered from September to December. Normally, it's a $1,150 option. I asked two different dealers about the option for the 26RR and they said they had not heard of it. Both were supposed to check with FR for availability but I never heard back from them. (I'm learning RV dealers aren't much different than car dealers and airplane dealers )

The Vengeance empty weight is 1,500 pounds more than the 26RR. The ramp door on the Vengeance is very heavy but I don't know if that is a factor in the weigh difference. The overall trailer is 1.5 feet higher and five inches wider but I don't know how much that affects weight.

Getting the actual patio door panels should be easy (they're all over the internet with Googling) but I think the biggest problem would be determining the weight capacity of the door (Vengeance is placarded at 2,000 pounds). Another issue would be placement of the support cables. On mine, the cables (pretty big ones) attach close to the end of the door. I'm sure there's some hefty bracing at that point because there is a lot of weight on those cables when they are supporting the door.
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Old 11-20-2015, 04:21 PM   #24
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Forgot to mention, the Vengeance ramp door measures 96" wide by 83 " long. The 26RR is 69x74. That might have something to do with the weight difference.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:41 PM   #25
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If your referring to the (party)deck it is available for your 26rr I got it on the 27rr
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Old 11-21-2015, 08:17 AM   #26
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The 26RR has the bottom springs for closing not the garage door spring cable setup.
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:07 AM   #27
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The 26RR has the bottom springs for closing not the garage door spring cable setup.
Same thing on the vengeance. The cable setup only comes into play if the door is opened. The cables are attached where they hold the door in the 90° position. Talked to a guy at the Harley shop this morning that has a 26rr who said he had installed cables on his door and they work fine. He's planning to build the railing in his home shop (probably will save a lot of $$$).
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:00 AM   #28
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I have never tied my bike down before. Where are you all attaching the straps and anything in particular I should be aware of?
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:56 PM   #29
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I would get a wheel chock and some good straps
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:11 PM   #30
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Not sure what brand your tying down. Harley makes a nice set of chrome brackets that mount behind the clearance lights on touring. Can see mine n the previous post
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:16 PM   #31
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I've got a suzuki Boulevard. So would I strap it at the handle bars? Compress suspension at all? Just around rear rim at back to keep from bouncing?
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:26 PM   #32
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Handle bars should work, don't think the Suzuki as a faring to get in the way. I would use a small strap to wrap around, or you can purchase a the down with a built in strap. Need some fork compression just don't over do it. I made my last trip without the back secured and had no issue with movement, my plan is not to the down the back from now on.
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:29 PM   #33
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Thank you. Any help is appreciated since this is my first at any of this. Sometimes the more you research things the more confusing it all gets
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:50 PM   #34
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I would tie down the back. The back did move around on my old one (VTX1300) when the back tie down came loose.
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Old 11-22-2015, 09:04 PM   #35
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As Cuzdog said, you will probably be able to use the handlebars to attach the forward tie down straps. The type of chock you get will have a lot of bearing on how much pressure is on the straps. I use the Titan brand chock. A little on the pricey side but has a cam-operated cradle that locks the front wheel in place and holds the bike pretty firmly in the upright position. There are other brands available that do the same thing. Because the bike is held upright by the chock it requires little pressure on the straps. With very minor fork compression the bike won't move at all.

Since there is minimal pressure on the straps hooks, it's best to use something like the Load-All straps which have a safety hook integrated to prevent the hook from detaching in the event the compressed load is released (i.e., a panic stop or accident which could allow the forks to compress, which in turn could allow the strap "s-hook" to come loose (don't ask me how I know that but I promise you it can happen).

Since I need minor fork compression I have the forward straps attached to the floor rings well forward of the front axle. Then, by having two additional straps extending from the luggage rack brackets to the aft-most floor rings, the forward and aft straps are pulling against each other, which works well for rapid deceleration and acceleration (although I'm sure rapid forward acceleration is not very common while pulling the trailer).

Rear straps become less important as the trailer weight is increased. If you're moving your bike on a landscape trailer I guarantee you the back end will move left or right until it hits the edge of the trailer. As the trailer gets heavier there is less "bouncing" so rear tiedowns become less important. It will never hurt to have a couple of straps in place to keep the rear wheel from bouncing.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:08 PM   #36
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Wheel chock secured to floor. 2 soft ties around forks or handle bars and connected to front tie downs with straps. 2 more straps on rear to keep rear from dancing and hold bike back in emergency stop. Don't compress forks to much, seals are expensive. I mounted a medium duty tie down in the center to hook the chock to. That is more to hold it in place while loading Traveling the straps do the work.
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:33 AM   #37
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Finally figured out how to insert a picture without it turning sideways. Here's the view of the Harley secured in the Titan chock.

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Old 11-23-2015, 02:46 AM   #38
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Finally figured out how to insert a picture without it turning sideways. Here's the view of the Harley secured in the Titan chock.

What was the trick to get it to display in the desired direction?

Back when I was reading your post on page 1 I went ahead and rotate your earlier picture before reading the remaining posts otherwise I would had known the problem was solved. In my case I saved it to the computer and rotate it before posting it.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:46 AM   #39
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Emmdee did you secure chock to floor?
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:47 AM   #40
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And do you have that as far back as possible to reduce tongue weight?
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