Can anyone identify the supplier of our OEM batteries?

[Modmike]

Does anyone know who OEM's the D27DC-160 house batteries in my Georgetown coach to Forest River?

The only identification is D27DC-160 and I need the specs to plug in to my battery tester. Before anyone asks, it's a Schumacher BT-250

[KyleStout]

EXIDE

[Modmike]

Thats what I originally heard but are you absolutely sure? I can't seem to find a comparable model or spec sheet.

[KyleStout]

Originally Posted by Modmike

Thats what I originally heard but are you absolutely sure? I can't seem to find a comparable model or spec sheet.

Not 100% certain...

I had read it on a heartland forum:
https://heartlandowners.org/showthre...identification

[dodosmike]

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ies/deep-cycle
24DC is a battery group size. (dictated by physical size)
160 is the reserve capacity (600 CC by the way)


What are you trying to test?
Treat it as any other 12V "automotive" style battery, as opposed to a ATV or golfcart battery. When charging a DC, trickle it 2/10 amps for a longer time as opposed to 15A quick charge, which is OK for a automotive "starting" battery.

DC = low and slow

[wmtire]

I've read before from one of Forest River reps that helps members on the forum state that they got their batteries from here:

WorldWideBattery - Indianapolis Batteries

[Modmike]

I need to definitively know the CCA to set my Schumacher BT-250. If in input the wrong number it could tell me I have a bad cell when I don't.

Not worried abut charging, I use a PulseTech.

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by dodosmike

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ies/deep-cycle
24DC is a battery group size. (dictated by physical size)
160 is the reserve capacity (600 CC by the way)


What are you trying to test?
Treat it as any other 12V "automotive" style battery, as opposed to a ATV or golfcart battery. When charging a DC, trickle it 2/10 amps for a longer time as opposed to 15A quick charge, which is OK for a automotive "starting" battery.

DC = low and slow

I think we have a winner, the numbers and physical look seem to match up. Thanks!

[babock]

http://www2.exide.com/Media/files/Lo...2011_13_15.pdf

You are going to find that you can charge a LOT more than 2/10A. It's also one of the reasons your convertor can put out over 50A.

In your case you have 4 12V batteries in parallel if I remember correctly. Even with a very large converter, you aren't going to be charging that fast and way under the max spec.

[Modmike]

I actually have a progressive dynamics 9270 (I believe but have to confirm the exact model) and typically charge for 48 hours. Do you think that will do it?

[babock]

Originally Posted by Modmike

I actually have a progressive dynamics 9270 (I believe but have to confirm the exact model) and typically charge for 48 hours. Do you think that will do it?

Probably but why not just leave it plugged in 24/7?

To see if it gets fully charged, let the batteries sit for 30 minutes after the charge voltage is removed so the surface charge dissipates...then check to make sure battery voltage is 12.7V

[Modmike]

Would love to but the bylaws don't let me keep it in front of my house so I keep it behind my friends office building, where there is no power.

The cops are pretty tolerant, actually called me twice to tell me a neighbour complained and asked me to move it the next day. They actually refused to give me a ticket!

I live in a pretty nice neighbourhood so I don't begrudge the complainers, it does look pretty massive on the street.

[Modmike]

Deleted, mistake.

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by babock

Probably but why not just leave it plugged in 24/7?

To see if it gets fully charged, let the batteries sit for 30 minutes after the charge voltage is removed so the surface charge dissipates...then check to make sure battery voltage is 12.7V

I did and the best they can muster 12.54. The moment I put any light load, they crash to 12.1.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Modmike

I did and the best they can muster 12.54. The moment I put any light load, they crash to 12.1.

I thought you brought these back to life with your pulsetech module/charger.

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by babock

I thought you brought these back to life with your pulsetech module/charger.

I did my car battery. I just put it on one of my RV batteries this morning, give it some time to desulfate buddy!

By the way, you never commented on the ripple measurements I took, what do you think?

[babock]

Originally Posted by Modmike

By the way, you never commented on the ripple measurements I took, what do you think?

They seem fine if you measured on AC and the pulses they put out are constant. Otherwise, you would have to look at it with a scope which I am sure you don't have.

[babock]

Will be interesting to see how it works.

I think the big problem you have is that you are letting your batteries get discharged and you aren't getting them back up to 100% fast enough. Can't let them sit without getting fully charged.

Solar is in your future!

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by babock

Will be interesting to see how it works.

I think the big problem you have is that you are letting your batteries get discharged and you aren't getting them back up to 100% fast enough. Can't let them sit without getting fully charged.

Solar is in your future!

I agree on both counts. It's the nature of where I camp I guess.

[camaraderie]

MM...it sounds like your pair of Group27 deep cycles is pretty much toast. Assuming you remain with Group27's suggest either DEKA or Trojan depending on budget. Deka makes for a lot of other labels as well but will always end in 27DC as a model number. Trojan is a premium battery that is priced higher but costs less per cycle IF you treat them right.
In any event...your progressive is capable of up to 70 amps charging current. A pair of Group 27's can accept up to 50 amps during bulk charging....and once you run them down to 50% charge you will be trying to replace 100 amp hours. That should take around 6 hours with your progressive set up close to your batts and good thick charging wire since the last 20% takes longer than the first 80%.
Investing in a real battery monitor like the Victron 700 can let you do this with precision so you don't waste time or kill your batteries early. Costs about the same as one new battery and you will come to love it.
As to the pulse tech. Suggest you abandon it. Pulse charging is snake oil and while it can perform minor charging duties like maintenance...pulse frequencies have ZERO effect on sulfation and battery life.