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Old 12-25-2016, 05:38 PM   #21
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No disrespect, but could you please tell us your source for the information about Mobil One? Also, how does one change the oil filter without having all the old oil gushing from where the oil filter connects to the engine? I'm no mechanic, so I guess I don't understand. I'm just looking for more information from the kind folks in the forum who, from my experience, know much more than I do...


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Old 12-25-2016, 05:51 PM   #22
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The only oil that comes out when you remove the filter is oil in the filter and some oil in the passageways. It's typical to add a quart to replace it. Popular Science ran an extensive study on synthetic oil way back when Mobil One first came out and was the only synthetic available. The real way to know when you need to change any oil is by sending a sample to a lab. Trouble is, that's kind of impractical for most of us.
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Old 12-25-2016, 05:55 PM   #23
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I've never known a subject that gets so best to death as oil changes. The most damage I've seen to an engine is when people don't keep enough in the thing due to neglect.
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:08 PM   #24
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It seems that if one's Diesel engine is under warranty, the only way to assure the continuation of that warranty would be to follow the maintenance schedule in the manual ( around 5k miles for oil and filter changes on my 2015 6.7 L Powerstroke) and keep my receipts. 100 k between oil changes seems hard to believe and would feasibly void my warranty if it lasted that long, which it does not.


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Old 12-25-2016, 06:12 PM   #25
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Oil of Afrodyti

Agreed with long trim duration of Synthetics. A close friend was involved with a Chrysler product test.. They took a Car, ran it 10k on conventional oil. Took apart the engine, micrometered all the parts. Ran it another 120k miles in daily Detroit traffic. Change just the filter at 20k intervals. Mic'd it 130k. Still had the same specs as 10k. Ran it another 120 k, same results. Test was terminated at 450k miles. oil at 450k was deemed ready to change. This test took over 4 years to complete, with many different drivers. Some was on the test track, but much was done on the streets. The engine specs were all within tolerance. My friend drove the car for several years, then sold it.

While I cannot bring myself to run my engines like that, I will not hesitate to run 10-15k between changes. I will consider a filter swap at 7k, depending. Every engine I have owned has been treated the same way. My engines have always ran over 300k until sold, unless the vehicle it was in got totaled by some ignorant other. My longest,, 505k before it was Totaled in a rear-ender.

I am a total fan of regular maintenance. I have never broken down due to engine failure, wheel bearings, fan belts, or hoses. I did have a water pump start to go once on the road, but no big deal. Got the parts, swapped at the campground. I asked, and got permission.

The biggest enemy of oil is short trips. The moisture never gets heated out, thus allowing some acids to build up, thus eating metals....etc.
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:35 PM   #26
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Very interesting and illuminating information. I guess I just look at frequent oil changes as cheap insurance and perhaps a selling point when I decide to put it up for sale. Well, maybe not so cheap, given the cost of a dealership filter and oil change, but I have the fear of failure common to those of us possessed of scant mechanical knowledge or experience. Thank you for giving me another point of view.


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Old 12-25-2016, 06:35 PM   #27
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I like to get my 6.2L serviced by the engine computer so when we do a three or four month trip, I wait til it comes up to change interval, look for a Ford dealer and take it in and get it done. With the semi synthetic oil Ford recommends, it isn't a life or death if you run over a few mile. However, because in a TV or motorhome, the engine is working hard, I like to keep it fresh.
As for other daily maintenance , I check tire pressure weekly. Also roll under the trailer every few days and make sure there are no spring bolts, shackles , tires or brake wiring that looks in need of attention. As mentioned above, I like to go over EVERYTHING before we leave town.......pull the wheel, check brakes, bearings, lighting etc. I'm a big believer in preventive maintenance so hopefully I'm not doing repairs in the road. Some of those only applies to TT obviously. Because we like the "road less traveled" I increase the under chassis inspection to daily if we are running on gravel roads for long periods.
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sterlingsilver View Post
I love synthetic oil and on most vehicles I run 100,000 miles between changes with never an engine problem. Oil filter gets changed at factory specified intervals and oil gets added when low but that's so seldom that I only check level monthly.
The only time I have seen oil run to 100,000 miles is with an oil bypass filtration, without it their is no way one should even attempt it. Even with an oil bypass filtration kit many people still run a used oil analysis to verify all is going well. I have pulled apart MANY engines with so much sludge the cam cap bolts can not be seen, the oil drain holes are nearly plugged preventing oil to drain back to the pan fast enough, and timing chains stretched to the point of being loose enough to jump a tooth, or two. I change my oil every 5,000 miles, I know, overkill, but that's my OCD coming out. My used oil analysis shows I can run to approx. 7,500 miles. Oil will break down, conventional, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic.
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Old 12-25-2016, 08:52 PM   #29
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Regarding the NY Taxi 100,000 alleged oil change claim, unless you can show me the article I call myth/hoax. This is probably the real story: "Consumer Reports did a study on New York taxi cabs some years back in which they drove 100,000 miles changing the oil every 10,000 miles, then broke down the engines to mic the pistons and such. There was no appreciable difference between the control group, in which the oil was changed every 3,000 miles. That said, I think they recommended changing every 5,000 to 7,500 miles.) And for anyone who claims they go 100,000 miles between oil changes I have some serious doubts about your claim.
I'm 69 year old DIYer and self-taught mechanic. I have never paid a dealer to do an oil change on any of the 50+ vehicles/trucks, M/Cs, Boats, ATV's, Dune Buggies, ATVs, Muscle cars or one Class C motor-home I have owned. I have done all my own routine maintenance and repairs since I was 16 years old including rebuilding engines, brake jobs, suspension work, etc. I have fully equiped two bay auto shop at my house with a lift and am currently restoring a 1970 Muscle car. The only thing I don't do is transmissions or electrical work on the new cars. As with most others, I started off with the 2K miles oil change interval, went to 3k and then to 5K where I stayed until the past few years. I have run Mobil 1 synthetic in my engines, except 2 stroke dirt bikes and O/B boat engines since it came out. I also ran Mobil 1 synthetic in my street bikes way before dealerships did and currently run it in my Harley. I do not run Mobil 1 in my '11 Duramax or in my previous Power Stroke or Cumins diesel trucks, primarily because of the expense considering they hold/held anywhere from 10-12 quarts of oil. I have never experienced an engine failure in any of the above mentioned vehs/boats. My son is a certified mechanic, both in diesel and gas engines and is the supervisor of a major cities fleet maintenance Department. This includes, police vehs, fire trucks, ambulances, etc. and they change the oil at the manufacturers "Severe" duty recommendations. He constantly attends in-service schools and seminars and sends oil samples out for analysis. He recently attended one such seminar on engine oils. The information he received is that the new car/truck engines are built with such close tolerances and clean burning technology that oil contamination is kept to a minimum in modern engines. Additionally, the improvements made to the oil additive packages, both dino and synthetic, are vastly improved. Oil analysis by independent labs, like Blackstone, have confirmed that oils that run the recommended 7,5000 mile oil change intervals still have anywhere from 25-50% life/additives left in them. Even the Mobil 1 website says that they don't recommend surpassing the car manufactures recommendations although their Extended life Mobil 1 is guaranteed to protect for up to 15K miles. https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/product-faqs/product-faqs Another independent study by Edmunds confirms you are wasting oil by changing it more frequently than is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Believe me it took a lot to make this old guy get off the 5K miles oil change routine, but if I can do it and start following the vehicle manufactures guide to oil change intervals you can to. So, to the original OP, change your oil before you leave with Mobil 1 Extended life synthetic, check it frequently and keep it topped off and don't worry about it until you get home. You'll be just fine. P.S. as a mechanic my son has had cars brought in where clueless owners never changed their oil. Only topped it off and or changed oil filters. Anywhere from 50K to 100K miles and they wanted to know why their engine wasn't running right. He said the engines were full of sludge to the point that the oil was like jelly and bearings and piston rings were shot. So don't believe everything somebody tells you on an internet forum.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:48 PM   #30
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This summer we went to Alaska. I use Mobil 1. We changed oil and filter before we left and in Oshkosh WI on the way back. Added 1/2 qt to M/H in Fairbanks. Total trip 16500 miles.
Wallyworld in Oshkosh was $65.00 for Mobil 1 + filter and they started immediately, the local Ford dealer was $145 for Synthetic BLEND and they could make a future appointment!!
I was not going to pay $90 for Mobil One in Alaska or even more in BC or Yukon.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:13 AM   #31
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I agree with KY Dan, No need to change synthetic oil at 4000 unless its an annual change. Oil breaks down with time and with use. When on the HW daily you can stretch your frequency out. An oil change every 6 weeks or two months would be plenty regardless of miles. If in doubt on this you might spin off the old filter and spin on a new one without changing the oil. That can be done on a cold eng.
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Old 12-26-2016, 12:43 PM   #32
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I've been considering a C or A instead of a TT cause I really want my own AC power along.. If I do go with a MH instead of TT then I must consider used instead of new..I am finding that most used MH's in my price range are on Ford chassis with the V10...I also see that any of the Ford modular engines, 4.6 - 5.4 and the the V10 have a serious flaw in the way Ford designed to the spark plug ports. Not enough treads and they often spit out the spark plug. If that were to happen at home it would be a bad thing..if it happened 1000 or 5000 mi. from home it would be a very very very bad thing. Maintenance of those engines, including oil changes, I am hearing is critical.. Did Ford ever fix this problem, if so what year did that happen.. Anyone Know?? I understand that Ford has never acknowledged that problem..I know about that, my 2014 F150 conversion van had a brake problem that Ford would not acknowledge..traded it for the 16 Silverado..I will never buy another new Ford. That & the spark plug thing makes me a bit nervous about any Ford..
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:45 PM   #33
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Got to love it...my oil change thread went to spark plug problems.

Anyway, parkguy, the spark plug problem was taken care of back around 2009 or 2010. Had to do with poor spark plug design, not the engine.
Anyway yours being newer, has no problems and no spark plugs will "spit out".
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:41 PM   #34
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Grumpy, the problem was too few treads in the head & the original plugs. The repair kits drill out the factory treads and install an insert with 8 instead of 4..
The tool kit & parts runs about $500. Ford would never cover under warranty and there has never been a recall...If 2009 is the first year they corrected it, that means it took em about 10 yrs to fix it.
They also would not never cover the brakes on my new E150..they said needing to pump a few times to get normal pedal is normal. I talked to two different factory reps.. Factory customer service would never get or give me an answer, just referred me to field reps..doubt that either of those ladies had a clue as what I was asking about. I was in new car business in sale & service for 18 years. Pumping the pedal should not happen on a new vehicle.
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:58 PM   #35
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Up until recently I had a 2007 Mustang GT with the 4.6 modular engine. It had the dreaded spark plug problem, which was basically due to the stupidly designed 2 piece plugs, I did the plug change myself and replaced them with new, but used nickel based anti seize.
As for problems with other makes, all will have problems here and there. Look at what Chrysler is going thru with their trannies. I'm sure GM has recalls on some of their models. Even our 2 Subie's, always noted for their trouble free reputation, have had some recalls.
Don't judge by one occurrence with one model.
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:05 AM   #36
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I am not aware of the spark plug problem that you mention. I did own an 98 model V10 bought used and had a friend who bought one new in an Excursion. Not one problem with these engines at that time. 200k miles on the Excursion and still was going strong. My 31 foot Coachmen with V10 would get about 7 mpg pulling a 12 foot trailer. If I pushed hard it would get even worse.
You mention AC on Board. The thing about a MH and AC is that after driving all day the heat from the Engine will come into the cabin when you stop for the day. I used to prop the hood up to release some of the heat when I stopped. The AC would have a hard time catching up with all the Engine and Trans heat that flows up through the floor and cowl.
Now I pull an awkward 30 foot TT with a Duramax. Getting 12 mph but it is not as easy to get around with as a MH.
Nothing is perfect.
I have decided that a used MH is much more affordable than other units and they only burn gas when driven witch is not that often to worry about it. Spending extra thousands for fuel economy does not save money. Depreciation is the biggest expense in a lot of RVs.
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:11 AM   #37
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I never thought about the heat from the engine causing a cooling problem in the coach, but I guess what I said was a bit misleading...when I said "AC" I was referring to "Alternating Current" thereby a Generator on board. A TT would work just fine except that the only Travel Trailers I see that have a generator prep from the factory are some Toy Haulers...which, of course, shows how easy it would be for the factory to put generators in Travel Trailers. It is nice to hear that the problem may be pretty rare. I did call a friend who was a tech at a local Ford store for over 20 yrs, where I worked as a service writer, he now has his own shop, and he said too that it is a rare problem. He said that he has never actually seen it but has heard about it and got a bulletin one time, not from Ford, but a parts supplier on it the problem along with info on the repair tool/parts kit.
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:08 AM   #38
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I don't change my own oil and have a C class Sunseeker with a Ford v10. I have it changed at a local Mr. Lube in Canada which is a quick change shop. I also use synthetic oil and prefer to change it yearly rather than worry about mileage. I wouldn't exceed 6,000 miles yearly regardless. I also change my genny oil yearly regardless of hours. I check my oil levels before starting on a trip and every time I gas up as it only takes a couple of minutes to do and it's peace of mind.

I drive between 60-65 and try to plan it to arrive at the park before dark if possible.

My best gas price last year was $1.36 at a BP in West Virginia. Yes I squeezed in every drop that I could!

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Old 12-27-2016, 09:12 AM   #39
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I have never actually driven far enough on the road to need an oil change but I do my own. I just follow the dash indicator to change it when it gets to 5% to 10%. I have done a brake repair in a TT Campground in NY two years ago. They were fine with it. I let them know I needed to look at the issue and they came down an offered help, a truck to drive to the parts store etc. Turned out it was a loose spring in the rear drum brakes and I was good in 20 minutes. I watch people change their oil, batteries, car parts int he parking lot of our Wally World all the time as well.
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Old 12-28-2016, 12:04 PM   #40
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What spark plugs should I run in my Cummins ISB340?
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