RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-05-2016, 12:39 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
Winter Camping

I am new to the class c rv world and live in the warm south. I also keep my class c stored indoors and travel all winter in the south. I have a ski trip planned for later this month to Colorado for 10 days and really want to take rv to denver. I will then take my toad up into mtns to our cabin. 2007 Sunseeker 31 ft.

I am looking at options on storing rv for those 10 days.

If I store outside what precautions should I take with rv? I have already flushed and replaced engine coolant. Will I be ok with draining lines, or do i need to put rv antifreeze in?

As a last resort I am considering storing at rv park and keeping inside warm with a couple small space heaters and the rv gas heat on lowest setting.

Thoughts???
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 01:52 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
BooBoo23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Atlanta Metro
Posts: 1,233
Probably less trouble if you don't take the RV. I just looked at the current 10 day forecast and it will freeze every night, in fact on Wednesday it is supposed to get down to 4 degrees. Plus you risk snow and ice and pulling a toad in that kind of weather is not what you want. If you still want to take the RV you will need to winterize it about the 2nd day on your trip. We live in the Atlanta area and it is supposed to get into the 20's this Friday.
__________________
2014 Palomino Puma 25RS
2011 F-150 Super Crew XLT
Days camped in 2014 - 23 Camped 2015-47
Camped 2016-71, 2017-33, 2018-29 booked
KT4W
BooBoo23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 11:52 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
Thanks, bUT I really want to take rv. I have 4 kids and the rv really helps with travels. I have found a rv park near tx nm border and plan to hookup there and spend one night and leave heat on low with no water hooked up. My rv has artic pkg, so that will keep tanks from frezing. I plan on leaving cabinets open..anything els I should consider?
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 12:24 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
BooBoo23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Atlanta Metro
Posts: 1,233
Are you going to leave your RV there? If you are you will need to keep it hooked up to shore power as neither your battery or propane will keep your tanks heated for 10 days. Good luck. Other than store the RV someplace closer to your destination in a warmer climate I don't know what else to suggest. Shore power hookup is a must then and winterize the plumbing.
__________________
2014 Palomino Puma 25RS
2011 F-150 Super Crew XLT
Days camped in 2014 - 23 Camped 2015-47
Camped 2016-71, 2017-33, 2018-29 booked
KT4W
BooBoo23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 03:45 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
Yes sir...rv site has power...will leave rv heat on low with a small space heater to maintain
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 05:38 PM   #6
Dragonship Captain
 
Oscarvan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 1,319
I would winterize it. It's not hard to do and for under $10 of "pink" at Wallymart you can get it done. If you don't know how to do it, find someone who can and will teach you. Pay if you have to. This way you can do it yourself anytime. With the traveling you're doing that sounds like a good skill to have. It takes les than a half hour once you know how.

The shore power can fail, the propane can run out, the furnace can quit, even for simple reasons. The bottom line is, that if your pipes/tanks/drains/valves/faucets/water heater freeze you WILL enter the world of PAIN. It can destroy your RV and any value in it. It WILL ruin your day, and quite a few more. Draining them is NOT enough. There are plenty of places where water sits and WILL do damage. Either the system needs to be blown out with compressed air (not my personal favorite) or you need to get pink in the system. (My favorite and so far I am batting 100% living in serious winter conditions 3-4 months out of the year).

Learn how to do it, then do it.
__________________
Read about our 2017 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
Oscarvan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2016, 12:40 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Novi, MI USA
Posts: 365
Send a message via AIM to NoviBill
*Warning I have done tried nor done this!

My parents would wait until after Christmas to head south from Michigan. My dad wired light bulbs (100 watt) into the underside storage areas where the water lines are. He parked at our house for the week between Christmas and New Years a few years and did OK. We saw 20deg (nothing like 4 deg).

The key here is they were in the motorhome every day.

I think if you are going to leave it, you will need to drain the tanks (fresh, black, grey & heater), blow out the water lines and put anti-freeze in the traps at a minimum.

-Bill
__________________
=================================
Bill & Renee from Novi, Michigan
2006 Lexington 255DS
=================================
https://anunbalancedbalance.blogspot.com/
NoviBill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2016, 03:17 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 188
I would (and do) bring a small air compressor and use the attachement that connects to your city water line and blow out all the water in the lines before you left. Empty your fresh water tank too and all your holding tanks. Takes 15 minutes and then you don't have to worry about while away from RV. Don't forget about the toliet... Flush that through with air too. Missed that one year and had to replace the flushed valve.

If you do the below you don't even have to worry about leaving in an RV park... Although not sure where else you'd park a motor home for 10 days.
__________________
2011 Sunseeker 3170DS - 30,000 miles explored
funfinder5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 09:42 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
Ok, so I have the rv site to store the camper and keep heat going. I also have the adapter, antifreeze, and pump to try to minimize risk of freezing. What about my water heater? Do I have to have a bypass?
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 09:47 PM   #10
Dragonship Captain
 
Oscarvan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 1,319
Quote:
Originally Posted by msubryan View Post
Ok, so I have the rv site to store the camper and keep heat going. I also have the adapter, antifreeze, and pump to try to minimize risk of freezing. What about my water heater? Do I have to have a bypass?

Most if not all RV's have a bypass. To fill the water heater with anti freeze would be a waste and to get the hot lines full you would have to fill the water heater.....

So what the bypass does is......bypass the water heater.... There usually are three valves. The cold TO the WH, which you would close, the hot FROM the WH, which you would also close and a connector between the two, camper side of the two shutoffs.

So you move all three valves and now pink runs from the cold side directly to all the hot water outlets without going through the hot water heater.

Now there is either a plastic plug or you remove the anode (if installed) to drain the contents of the water heater....(important as you didn't put any pink in it)
__________________
Read about our 2017 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
Oscarvan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 10:03 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Cypressloser's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Alberta - East of the Rockies, West of the Rest
Posts: 1,782
First of all winterizing is easy, cheap and quick. Let somebody show you how it's done properly and yes, you do need a bypass for the water heater (unless you don't mind filling the hotwater tank with antifreeze) and you most certainly already have a bypass already.
Do not rely on blowing out the water system with air only, you will probably have some water collecting in low spots somewhere that can give you headaches if you are planning to re pressurize during the trip and do not forget to add a cup or so of plumbing antifreeze to all the p-traps.
There is no need to winterize while you're living in the RV with the furnace turned on but when driving through frigid weather you might have to.
__________________
2018 RAM 5500 Laramie CC
Sold: Riverstone Legacy 38RE, 960 Watt Solar, 6x6 Volt AGM Battery Bank, Freedom SW 3012 Inv/Charger
Ordered: 2021....
Cypressloser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2016, 09:04 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
Ok, so I am attempting to do a test run of winterizing before I leave house, to make sure that I have everything I need when I stop. So, On my RV, 2008 Sunseeker Class C, I do no have the standard 3 valve bypass on my water heater. I only have 1 valve...is this correct? will this work?
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 04:47 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
B D HOWie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lake Wales
Posts: 279
The WH by-pass valves are on the back side of the WH. You may have to remove a drawer or false cabinet panel inside your coach to see and access the valves.
Paul
__________________
Big Dog House On Wheels
2013 Coachmen Freelander 28QB

on 2012 4500 Chevrolet Chassis
Paul
B D HOWie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:21 PM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
I did that, but only have one...not the std 3
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:32 PM   #15
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
This is the bottom, cold water valve
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1481585499666.jpg
Views:	84
Size:	21.5 KB
ID:	126566  
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:33 PM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
This is top, hot water outlet and no valve. If I flip the valve, the cold water will divertical up thru bypass and into WH hot side...correct?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1481585543173.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	21.5 KB
ID:	126567  
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 07:01 PM   #17
Just as confused as you
 
Scrapper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,695
The valve at the bottom of the WH is a 2 way valve. Turned parallel with the cold water line lets water into the WH, turned with the handle pointing up shuts off the bottom of the WH, diverting the water to the top. The top fitting on the WH has a check valve in it to keep water from entering the WH from the top. These check valves could go bad and let water into the heater. The most common thing I have heard about these valves is the sometimes get plugged restricting flow from the water heater.
Scrapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 08:47 PM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 70
Ok, so turn up and I should be bypassed?
__________________
Bryan Williams
2008 Sunseeker 3120DS
Days Camped:
2014:43 2015:44 2016:21+
msubryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 09:51 PM   #19
Just as confused as you
 
Scrapper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,695
Yes, turning the valve so it is pointing up is the bypassed position.
Scrapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 09:31 PM   #20
Dragonship Captain
 
Oscarvan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 1,319
Yes, I have had a WH that had only one valve, and it was a three way as described above.
__________________
Read about our 2017 38A: https://dragonship.blog/
Oscarvan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
camping, winter

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:37 PM.