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04-28-2014, 06:32 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolling buckeye
Well heck, it looks ALOT better!! How long till you take her out?
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Thanks.
First planned trip is 6/29 weekend to Marquette Mich. (Loose Moose national enduro.)
Then to Mayville New York for the 4th of july week. (Family trip.)
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04-30-2014, 10:19 PM
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#42
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 036.6turbo
Thanks.
First planned trip is 6/29 weekend to Marquette Mich. (Loose Moose national enduro.)
Then to Mayville New York for the 4th of july week. (Family trip.)
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Be sure to grease the wheel bearings before you take a long ride (not knowing the history on it) you should have the little rubber caps on the spindles that cover a normal zerk type grease fitting.
I just took mine out for a week long trip to Florida, all went well, got a little over 14 mpg (kept her at 65 most of the trip). But I still haven't hauled bikes yet
Got a race about 2 hours from home this weekend.
http://www.seraracing.com
Keep us posted on the progress.
__________________
2011 Work & Play 27UL and 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins.
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05-01-2014, 06:55 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnduroRdr
Be sure to grease the wheel bearings before you take a long ride (not knowing the history on it) you should have the little rubber caps on the spindles that cover a normal zerk type grease fitting.
I just took mine out for a week long trip to Florida, all went well, got a little over 14 mpg (kept her at 65 most of the trip). But I still haven't hauled bikes yet
Got a race about 2 hours from home this weekend.
Seraracing
Keep us posted on the progress.
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Good luck this weekend! Be safe and have fun.
This may sound a little goofy, but I'm contemplating taking the W&P to move my son home from school next week. He has a rather large toolbox, that has to come home, and the ramp door on the W&P might make that move a little easier? It's about a 280 mile round trip, no over night stay, but might be a good shake down run?
He tools are not the only things that need to come home, I sure some of you have been down this road, move them to school in the fall, home in the spring etc.etc.
The W&P would be overkill, but I may just do it. I have not installed the airbags on my truck yet, but that looks like a (1) evening job.
(Oh and only the toolbox he's leaning on are his, the other (2) are mine.)
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05-01-2014, 08:32 AM
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#44
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 036.6turbo
Good luck this weekend! Be safe and have fun.
This may sound a little goofy, but I'm contemplating taking the W&P to move my son home from school next week. He has a rather large toolbox, that has to come home, and the ramp door on the W&P might make that move a little easier? It's about a 280 mile round trip, no over night stay, but might be a good shake down run?
He tools are not the only things that need to come home, I sure some of you have been down this road, move them to school in the fall, home in the spring etc.etc.
The W&P would be overkill, but I may just do it. I have not installed the airbags on my truck yet, but that looks like a (1) evening job.
(Oh and only the toolbox he's leaning on are his, the other (2) are mine.)
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Nice! I am about to be doing the move'm to n back thing. When DS is in school,he can get 50% off snap on and matco,products. Trying to figure how to best take advantage of this perk, and still pay for school. Know he will need many tools.
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05-01-2014, 09:51 AM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolling buckeye
Nice! I am about to be doing the move'm to n back thing. When DS is in school,he can get 50% off snap on and matco,products. Trying to figure how to best take advantage of this perk, and still pay for school. Know he will need many tools.
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Yeah, my boy is finishing his third year at Ferris.
Same types of discounts, but we found most of his stuff on CL, mostly Craftsman stuff.
Those tool boxes came from here;
https://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/
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05-01-2014, 05:54 PM
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#46
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 91
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almost 300 miles, plus loading up, you might want to bring the sleeping bags too (just in case) LOL!
Oh yea - the Ride-Rite instructions said approximately 2 hours to install - I took 4, but then Im a little anal on making sure things are right, and rotate the tires, and changed the oil - Dang, no wonder it took me 4 hours -
__________________
2011 Work & Play 27UL and 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins.
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05-02-2014, 05:31 AM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnduroRdr
almost 300 miles, plus loading up, you might want to bring the sleeping bags too (just in case) LOL!
Oh yea - the Ride-Rite instructions said approximately 2 hours to install - I took 4, but then Im a little anal on making sure things are right, and rotate the tires, and changed the oil - Dang, no wonder it took me 4 hours -
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As usual, I only had a few minutes to spend in the shop last night, so I just "pre-assembled" the bags / cups / brackets. Reviewed the install instructions.
Hopefully finish those tonight?
I had checked the build sheet on my truck, saw it had the extra trailer wire package option from the factory. Fished around until I found it bundled up on top of the fuel tank. So now I need to install a (7) wire plug, in the bed of the truck. I'm thinking just behind the left wheel well?
That sound right?
Small thing, I know. But when your drilling with a hole saw through the bed of the truck, you kinda want to measure twice, drill once!
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05-02-2014, 09:37 AM
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#48
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 036.6turbo
I had checked the build sheet on my truck, saw it had the extra trailer wire package option from the factory. Fished around until I found it bundled up on top of the fuel tank. So now I need to install a (7) wire plug, in the bed of the truck. I'm thinking just behind the left wheel well?
That sound right?
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I have mine in that exact place, behind the wheel well on driver side of truck bed.
But I also have one by license plate because my other trailers were bumper pulls. So if your truck already has the rear one you could use it in a pinch - I have seen others that dangle the cord over the back of the tail gate but I didn't like that idea - I prefer to have it coiled up in the bed less chance of it getting hung up on something.
__________________
2011 Work & Play 27UL and 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins.
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05-02-2014, 10:12 AM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnduroRdr
I have mine in that exact place, behind the wheel well on driver side of truck bed.
But I also have one by license plate because my other trailers were bumper pulls. So if your truck already has the rear one you could use it in a pinch - I have seen others that dangle the cord over the back of the tail gate but I didn't like that idea - I prefer to have it coiled up in the bed less chance of it getting hung up on something.
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Yeah, that how I hauled it home, but having that pigtail hanging behind the tailgate / bumper just did not give me a real warm fuzzy feeling.
REALLY do not want to risk losing the trailer brakes and find out the hard way.
If you know what I mean.
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05-06-2014, 10:31 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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That was at the weight station when I left town.
Currently dry camping at the Walmart in Big Rapids. Trip up was un eventful, truck handled the unit great. I'm very happy with it overall.
__________________
2007 Work & Play 34RL Toyhauler.
2003 GMC Sierra HD Dmax Alli.
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05-09-2014, 06:54 AM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Made it back home without any fuss.
Over all I was very happy with the way the unit towed. I was concerned I may get some of that dreaded "chucking / bucking" that I've read about. But I had none of it. I was getting some crosswinds on the way north, and headwinds when I came back south. All in all, it pulled great.
I did have buy a new battery in Big Rapids. I was holding off doing that, thinking I may upgrade it to (2) 6v batteries, but the thougth of a cold night with out the furnace, quickly changed my mind.I can always add the (2) 6v's later if need be.
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05-09-2014, 07:44 PM
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#52
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,330
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Glad you had a good run! The combo looks good!
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05-19-2014, 10:01 PM
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#53
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 17
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We ordered our rig with a goosneck hitch, love the way it tows! We have a regular cab truck, so there is room for a transfer tank and tool box, and our truck does not have that ugly 5th wheel hitch in it! Just upgraded our tires to 17.5 rims and load range J, upgrading our truck from a 2500 Diesel 4x4 to a 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually....our 2500 pulled our 34.5 FK fine, but we want the safety margin for the mountains
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05-20-2014, 06:39 AM
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#54
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EBendana
We ordered our rig with a goosneck hitch, love the way it tows! We have a regular cab truck, so there is room for a transfer tank and tool box, and our truck does not have that ugly 5th wheel hitch in it! Just upgraded our tires to 17.5 rims and load range J, upgrading our truck from a 2500 Diesel 4x4 to a 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually....our 2500 pulled our 34.5 FK fine, but we want the safety margin for the mountains
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I think I'm fine with my truck, the wieght ticket shows I have some room to spare.
My W&P does have a mismatched set of tires on it. I believe some blow outs are in it's history. Truck and W&P both have 16" load range "E"s on them. I need to drop the spare on the truck, and see if it fits the W&P, because I do no have a spare for that. With my old trailer, I carried two spares. I'm going to need to source spares for this.
This thing pulls very well, I am happy with the gooseneck. I bought this to race dirt bikes out of. My truck becomes a chase vehicle during the races. On several occasions throughout the season, my wife will haul a broken bike, back to the pits in the bed of my truck (my bike or another compettitor's). Not having a fifth wheel hitch in the bed makes that much easier.
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05-31-2014, 06:05 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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I was getting ready to drill about (80) holes in the floor of the garage, to mount (40) ft of E-Track. Then I got cold feet. I did some research and decided to just relocate the anchor points that the previous owner installed. (3) along the front, (3) along the rear. This will allow the wheel chock to be anchored from the rear, bike tie downs in front. (12) holes instead of (80).
__________________
2007 Work & Play 34RL Toyhauler.
2003 GMC Sierra HD Dmax Alli.
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05-31-2014, 06:09 PM
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#56
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Then my wife came home with a $100.00 gennie.
2250watts. Runs like a champ, powers up the A/C.
It's loud, but most of my camping is at the pits of motorcycle races. One more engine will get lost in the din.
__________________
2007 Work & Play 34RL Toyhauler.
2003 GMC Sierra HD Dmax Alli.
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05-31-2014, 06:24 PM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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Then I went back and used some grey chalk to fill the holes where the PO had the anchors.
I would have left them and added more, but there was no logic to where he had them.
__________________
2007 Work & Play 34RL Toyhauler.
2003 GMC Sierra HD Dmax Alli.
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05-31-2014, 10:50 PM
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#58
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 91
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Yo Turbo, your rig is looking good. Glad to hear it is working out for you.
Regarding the "E"-Track thing I had the same delima. In my previous toy hauler I went through a lot of trouble mounting new anchor points using the "Sunk-in" loops (I think there were trap door latches), anyway once in place they were flush with floor but I spent a ton of time and effort to use a router to make the holes for the patches to fit, then custom made mounts for the tire hoops.
Anyway after all that effort to fit all the bikes just right, then my boys out grow their bikes and the bigger ones didn't fit the same. So this time I did the "E"-Track thing.
Only I took the easy route and just used some #12 sheet metal screws. That made mounting a breeze.
Also instead of mounting a front tire hoop now I use a tie down run between 2 tracks to hold the rear tire. It accomplishes 2 things that way, stops the bike from forward motion and holds the rear in place from side to side travel. Now I don't use a tire hoop in front. If I haul 3 bikes I put the middle one on the center e-track (with a small strap around the rear tire and back to the same point on the track and I have floor anchors a little further up in front for those tie downs.
All in all I like the e-track thing.
__________________
2011 Work & Play 27UL and 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins.
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05-31-2014, 10:57 PM
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#59
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 91
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Turbo, regarding your rig polishing. I now have to do the same thing. my work and play graphics are splitting. these have to be the cheapest graphics I have ever seen. I am in the process of removing them now and will have to polish the gel-coat then wax it.
__________________
2011 Work & Play 27UL and 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins.
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06-01-2014, 09:04 AM
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#60
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 157
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New member and Work and Play owner
I love your E Track and that is pretty close to what I was planning. (4) 10' sections of track, (100) 5/16-18 x 2" bolts with nuts and fender washers.
I had my lovely bride on ETrailer, ordering the end caps for the tracks.
That's where things began to turn!
She had reservations a about the grand kids and stubbed toes and the tooth fairy and the yeti! And all kinds of "reasonable" concerns!
But in her defense, I was having second thoughts about punching that many holes in it. The odds are better than even that one of my full dress Harley's may take a ride back there and I wanted the security of the nuts and fender washers on the underside of the floor.
__________________
2007 Work & Play 34RL Toyhauler.
2003 GMC Sierra HD Dmax Alli.
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