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Old 08-04-2017, 02:38 PM   #1
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Newbie with ?'s - WAB the strongest?

Hi everyone!
I've been reading thru and learning more about the Work & Play. We are about to purchase our first travel trailer. We have owned several horse trailers with LQ - so, I'm not totally in the dark. But, almost. Couple of questions - and, before we get de-railed...

@Concerned Taxpayer...I hear ya! I have already read your posts and photos. I'm taking your concerns under advisement. We are also considering an aluminum horse trailer and converting to a toy hauler. But, it is much more expensive and a bit overkill. Regardless - I have heard you loud and clear from reading thru the threads.

My questions to the experts-
Is the WAB the strongest of the Work & Play? I read thru a forum post that asked the difference between the WAB and WB. My understanding is that the WAB is stronger (and heavier). Is the WAB the strongest available on the W&P line of toy haulers?

My husband has a HD Street Glide & I have a HD Road King. Will they both fit fairly easily in the 25WAB?

Solar - I would love to boondock. Anyone use solar with success?

Are there any other models of W&P we should consider? We don't want any longer than the 25WAB. I have a hard time even finding the difference between the models on the FR website. I would like to be a little more "in the know" before we start talking to sales reps.

I've already learned a lot by reading the threads and comments. It is a bit overwhelming...But, I'm sure with time we will figure it out. Thanks for your help!

Happy Friday!
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Old 08-05-2017, 12:07 AM   #2
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Hello, Welcome

The things I seen in difference WAB-WB!
I'll start off with what you might know.
The WAB is/has:
78 lbs. more GVWR will be if you load it to the max.
856 lbs.less Cargo carrying capacity = less toys you can carry
3" more cargo room inside, front to back
Outside is 3" shorter ( Box )
Outside is 5" taller
7 Gal. More gray water capacity
7 Gal. More black water capacity

The WB is/has:
78 lbs less GVWR if loaded to max.
856 lbs. more cargo carrying capacity = more toys you can haul.
3" less cargo length inside, front to back.
3" longer outside ( box )
5" shorter
7 Gal. Less gray water capacity
7 Gal less black water capacity

From what I seen in picture:
WB doesn't have an electric bed in cargo area WAB does.
WB has pantry in kitchen next to door WAB doesn't.

That s my findings from what I can see I'm sure there are other little things different.
Hope it helps.
I never did solar I have solar to put on just never did.
As for as one being stronger or not, I don't know.
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Old 08-05-2017, 12:12 AM   #3
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Is your truck gas or diesel?
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Old 08-05-2017, 01:45 AM   #4
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I was wrong the WAB does have the pantry!
https://youtu.be/af6seX08vts
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:02 AM   #5
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HeritageChic,

My wife and I literally just purchased a 2017 25WAB in H-D Orange. Much like you and your husband, I ride a 2010 Street Glide and my wife runs a 2017 Heritage Softail Classic. We manage to haul them both by staggering the bikes, with the Glide up front, and the Heritage staggered slightly behind and to the left and closer to the kitchen cabinets. We are also new to this forum and have yet to load any pictures, but will try to do that later today. Given that all Harley-Davidson bikes are prone to leak a little at some point, we purchased heavy rubber matting and 3/4" plywood to place on the floor. This allows us to protect the floor, with any small amount of fluids lost to be soaked up by the plywood. In addition, the plywood also allows for us to mount our bike stands firmly to same, as well as additional tie down rings, without having to drill into the floor of the trailer. We have really enjoyed the 25WAB so far, and will be departing to Copper Harbor (UP Michigan) with the bikes in about a week. Good luck with the purchase, and we will try to post some pictures of the bikes loaded up yet today. Semper Fi, Scott
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:40 AM   #6
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I have owned a 2017 WAB for a year now and love it. 2014 18EC before that. You will love it. It is heavy, 7800 empty but is built like a tank. I have the 4000 Onan up front and it is a must. You will love the versatility of the two Happy Jack beds in back. I haul Motorcycles, Can Am Maverick, CanAm Spyder and Polaris Ranger with no problems.

I would take Concerned Taxpayer with a grain of salt. He sprayed water with a hose on his roof and then took a picture. He has never had a leak.

Chas Hood with FR warranty has been very good to work with on several minor problems I have had.

I would not recommend 1/2 ton tV if you are doing a lot of hills or mountain terrain. I Towed with a Ford F150 3.6 EB for a year but braking an transmission heating was a problem. Loaded I am just under 10,000 #.

Jack
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:31 PM   #7
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Truck is diesel. Was with my brother in law today who totally ragged on the W&P. Nice guy, but we have a difference of opinion on lots of stuff. He went on and on about how heavy they are and even a 3/4 diesel will struggle. I have a hard time believing that. And how "basic" the LQ's are. Typical that we would disagree. it doesn't really change my mind. He is into Honda's - we are into Harley's. to each his own, right?
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:36 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the responses. Very good info. Obviously I'm slightly challenged in how to respond to forums. Another learning curve. This forum is full of fantastic info. Love reading about the modifications. I think we are leaning toward the WAB. There are only 4 that I can find for sale of the model we want here in Texas. That just seems crazy!
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:56 PM   #9
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Your Diesel 2500 truck will have no problem with pulling the 25 WAB.
Towing Campers is all crazy, it's fun but crazy!
As for as a TT i would only own a Work n play.
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:36 AM   #10
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One very distinct advantage of the Work and Play is the low floor and and very low angle of the ramp door. When hauling our motorcycles I ride in to a Condor chalk. This is very important to consider when choosing a toy hauler.

Jack
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:00 AM   #11
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HeritageChic,

Although the 25WAB may weigh slightly more than offerings from other competing brands, your 3/4 ton diesel will have absolutely no problem hauling the trailer. My 25WAB weighs approximately 7,800lbs unladen, and my 2014 F250 6.7L diesel is rated to haul 14,900lbs or so, if I am not mistaken. Simply put, your Brother In Law is woefully mistaken on your inability to tow this trailer. We finally posted a few pictures of our trailer, one of which is with the Glide and Heritage loaded in the Hauler for you to see how we do it...Good Luck & Semper Fi, Scott
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:21 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by scottfrosch View Post
HeritageChic,

Although the 25WAB may weigh slightly more than offerings from other competing brands, your 3/4 ton diesel will have absolutely no problem hauling the trailer. My 25WAB weighs approximately 7,800lbs unladen, and my 2014 F250 6.7L diesel is rated to haul 14,900lbs or so, if I am not mistaken. Simply put, your Brother In Law is woefully mistaken on your inability to tow this trailer. We finally posted a few pictures of our trailer, one of which is with the Glide and Heritage loaded in the Hauler for you to see how we do it...Good Luck & Semper Fi, Scott
Awesome! Will check out the pics! Thank you! I'm hoping my brother-in-law didn't get my husband's ear yesterday. I threatened him to keep his mouth shut...but, who knows. I will have to share this thread with my husband. We are buying either a '17 or '18 GMC Sierra 2500 diesel at the same time as we buy a trailer. Currently, we have a 2001 F250 with the big diesel engine. It is still a great truck, but wouldn't want to be traveling any distance with it. We used to have a big 3 horse steel gooseneck horse trailer with a big tack room (unfinished). We pulled that baby loaded with 2 horses with our 1/2 ton ONCE....never again. It is one thing to not have enough power, but altogether something else to not be able to stop. Poor hubby - white knuckling it with wife bitching the whole time in his ear as we slid thru stop signs (it was also pouring rain). It was not something either of us wants to ever experience again. We quickly bought the F250 and it was day/night difference.

Always good to "meet" moto riding couples. I'm the lone female rider in our group. I'm constantly trying to talk the other wives into taking the course...
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun Style View Post
Hello, Welcome

The things I seen in difference WAB-WB!
I'll start off with what you might know.
The WAB is/has:
78 lbs. more GVWR will be if you load it to the max.
856 lbs.less Cargo carrying capacity = less toys you can carry
3" more cargo room inside, front to back
Outside is 3" shorter ( Box )
Outside is 5" taller
7 Gal. More gray water capacity
7 Gal. More black water capacity

The WB is/has:
78 lbs less GVWR if loaded to max.
856 lbs. more cargo carrying capacity = more toys you can haul.
3" less cargo length inside, front to back.
3" longer outside ( box )
5" shorter
7 Gal. Less gray water capacity
7 Gal less black water capacity

From what I seen in picture:
WB doesn't have an electric bed in cargo area WAB does.
WB has pantry in kitchen next to door WAB doesn't.

That s my findings from what I can see I'm sure there are other little things different.
Hope it helps.
I never did solar I have solar to put on just never did.
As for as one being stronger or not, I don't know.
This is very good stuff! I think we are leaning towards the WAB. I want to boondock, so the extra gallons will come in handy! I struggle to find comparisons on their website. FR carries quite a few toy box haulers...but, we keep coming back to the W&P primarily for the construction.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:45 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by jaherbst View Post
One very distinct advantage of the Work and Play is the low floor and and very low angle of the ramp door. When hauling our motorcycles I ride in to a Condor chalk. This is very important to consider when choosing a toy hauler.

Jack
We used the Condor chalks on a flat bed trailer before we purchased a small aluminum trailer designed for motorcycles. Can you screw them into the floor of the W&P without compromising the structure of the floor?
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:49 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by jaherbst View Post
I have owned a 2017 WAB for a year now and love it. 2014 18EC before that. You will love it. It is heavy, 7800 empty but is built like a tank. I have the 4000 Onan up front and it is a must. You will love the versatility of the two Happy Jack beds in back. I haul Motorcycles, Can Am Maverick, CanAm Spyder and Polaris Ranger with no problems.

I would take Concerned Taxpayer with a grain of salt. He sprayed water with a hose on his roof and then took a picture. He has never had a leak.

Chas Hood with FR warranty has been very good to work with on several minor problems I have had.

I would not recommend 1/2 ton tV if you are doing a lot of hills or mountain terrain. I Towed with a Ford F150 3.6 EB for a year but braking an transmission heating was a problem. Loaded I am just under 10,000 #.

Jack
Thanks for the feedback. The "built like a tank" is what we like to hear. We went to a RV show years ago (probably 5 or more). We really liked the W&P in comparison to other models. Even to novices like us, it was apparent that it was built more like the aluminum horse trailers that we were accustomed to. I think the better construction is worth the extra weight.
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Old 08-08-2017, 09:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeritageChic View Post
We used the Condor chalks on a flat bed trailer before we purchased a small aluminum trailer designed for motorcycles. Can you screw them into the floor of the W&P without compromising the structure of the floor?
Depending where you place them. I suggest through bolting with large washer for a backing plate. I would not recommend just screwing them in as the flooring is FSB if I recall correctly.

You could also get the aluminum (which I have also) Condor and use straps to anchor to tie downs. It has no mounting plate but can be permanently mounted to floor. I would not recommend this as it would take up a lot of space permanently. The Condor with the quick disconnect mounting place would be a far better choice.

Jack
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Old 08-10-2017, 02:27 PM   #17
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The fact that water stands on the roof is an issue, trust me, before you purchase one of these get on ladder and look at the roof make up your own mind. Crawl underneath and look at the weld. See how easy you can access the fresh water tank drain. Make sure that the gas filler is higher than the tank. On a cool day the swell latches on the front are hard to get to line up and difficult to make hold the covers and place. In closing, Jack, does rainwater runoff the roof different than water from a garden hose?
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:00 PM   #18
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Spent a week in the mtns. We got poured on 2 days. I leveled the Camper was slightly nose high so water ran off the back.

Also had a blow out on curbside rear tire tire. It did no damage to the wheel area but did mangle the light aluminum that holds the fuel hose and I dragged it down the highway.
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Old 08-11-2017, 10:09 AM   #19
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Spent a week in the mtns. We got poured on 2 days. I leveled the Camper was slightly nose high so water ran off the back.

Also had a blow out on curbside rear tire tire. It did no damage to the wheel area but did mangle the light aluminum that holds the fuel hose and I dragged it down the highway.
Give us a little more info on the Blowout. Were tire air pressure at 60#? How fast do you normally travel? Was trailer sitting level when hooked up? If not too much weight on one axle and tires.

I am on my second W&P (18EC and 25 WAB) with over 25,000 miles towed. Adjusting the hitch so the trailer is perfectly level when hooked up is very important so as not putting excess weight on one axle or front or back set of tires. Even if your load is light air up to max PSI. Both my trailers were 60 PSI max. Don't drive over 65 with trailer connected. ST tires are not rated over 65 MPH.

Can't stress how important it is to have trailer perfectly level after hookup. If not this puts excess weight on one axle and it's set of tires. Most blow outs I have seen are on one of the rear tires which means the trailer is too high in the front and not level thus transferring most of the trailer weight on the rear axle and the rear two tires. A recipe for disaster. ( rear blow out )

Jack
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:27 AM   #20
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80# (max for tire) and never over 65mph, usually 62. Trailer sits fairly level depending on how it is laden. We didn't have full water this time so it was slightly nose low, yet it was rear tire that blew.
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