2000 m-21 Roo info needed

[Powderhorn01]

I need to find some info that the original manual does not have.
The trailer is a 2000 Roo m-21 it has the King front bed, a twin rear bunk.

1, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts??
2. How do I find out what make of axles are under it??

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Powderhorn01

I need to find some info that the original manual does not have.
The trailer is a 2000 Roo m-21 it has the King front bed, a twin rear bunk.

1, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts??
2. How do I find out what make of axles are under it??

Should be a sticker or plate on the axle.
Are you sure the front bed is a King, it should be the standard 60x80 RV queen.
2000 was only the 2nd year of the Roo/Shamrock hybrids.

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[rsdata]

FROM A PREVIOUS POST:
I confirmed 75-85 ft/lbs on 13" wheels. Steel or aluminum. So long as your trailer has 5 bolts and are 1/2" studs. I torqued mine to 80 ft/lbs, and test drove for 15 miles up to highway speeds. Rechecked, and still holding. Will check again before this weekend.

iF 14-15" WHEELS THEN 100 FT LBS

[Powderhorn01]

Thank you for the info, it was a big help, as the owners manual is so generic that it is useless.

[fipntdot]

Originally Posted by Powderhorn01

Thank you for the info, it was a big help, as the owners manual is so generic that it is useless.

The owner's models on new rv's are also practically worthless. Its easier to just find numbers on the individual components and search for info on the web.

[Rhumblefish]

Originally Posted by Powderhorn01

Thank you for the info, it was a big help, as the owners manual is so generic that it is useless.

Yeah, it's by design. This is pretty much the way for most towables, in that you ultimately have to think about the trailer as a box with a collection of systems and subsystems. It almost doesn't make sense to have one manual written (like a car), as components are coming from different suppliers and can (and do) easily change from trailer to trailer and line to line (not to mention year to year).

Best suggestion is to collect manuals (and warranty data) for all YOUR specifics components into one place, then hole-punch and bind them together in a single reference binder (or maybe collect PDFs loaded onto a tablet if you rock this way, but I sorta prefer the paper version). If you change a component (eg, you add or replace the converter, or add an inverter), change your manual, as well.

[Chuck_S]

Powder--

Do you own this trailer? Would be kool to see inside and outside photos of the front king size bed and rear twins as I've never seen a Roo hybrid with either.

As noted lug nut torque depends on the diameter of the bolt studs. Trailer wheels have slightly different torques than passenger car wheels.



You can get a torque wrench good enough for this task at Harbor Freight for about 20 bucks.

-- Chuck

[Powderhorn01]

The trailer has a twin size rear bunk, a fixed side short twin, front is a short queen, dinet lets down into a king. I miss quoted the size of the front bunk.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Powderhorn01

The trailer has a twin size rear bunk, a fixed side short twin, front is a short queen, dinet lets down into a king. I miss quoted the size of the front bunk.

Yea, I didn't think so. The trailer isn't wide enough for a king bed bunk.

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[Chuck_S]

I still think it'd be kool to see photos of this interesting early hybrid design.

-- Chuck