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Old 05-28-2018, 08:32 AM   #1
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2000 Roo 19' newb... Any advice, tips, tricks?

Hey, friends! We are new to this model... Previously used a TailGator toy hauler and a Coleman pop-up trailer before that, so not new to camping, but trying to familiarize ourselves with this hybrid format. The camper needs some work (Floor repair, grunge, fridge parts, and other things I'm sure we'll discover) but do any of you wonderful peeps have any tips or tricks for set up? Maint? Or advice??

Hubs is a handy dude... We plan on doing repairs ourselves. He's a mechanic and maintenance guy, so the scope of his experience is varied. He's redone floors in boats, but not an RV.

Tips on where to find manuals for the components? I've seen that newer FR Rockwood things are online, but I'd like to binder up the manual, and booklets on fridge, AC, water heater, ...

The thing needs to be aired out desperately, and cleaned out of the previous' junk. Any tips here?? I was thinking I'd remove all fabrics and curtains and wash/ soak/ air in the sun... It's sat for about two years, I figure, and the previous folks were not handy types... It appears they drove off with the leveling jacks down... *sigh...

TIA
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Old 05-28-2018, 09:04 AM   #2
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Congrats on your Roo! For the manuals I would suggest finding the model # on each appliance (fridge, AC, water heater, furnace, stove, etc) and going to the manufacturers website to see if you can download the manual. Being a 2000 I don't know how long they keep the manuals on their sites to access. You might want to consider the Pugs or solar blankets for the tent end roofs and the Reflectix mod for the window areas of the tent ends. The Pugs not only help keep the direct sun from heating up the tent end areas but also keep them cleaner from tree sap, etc. The Reflectix help keep the tent ends cooler when running the AC and warmer when running the furnace.

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Old 05-28-2018, 12:26 PM   #3
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Also, look for converting the old bunk door screw clamps, to the newer cargo latches. WAY better at closing the bunk door.

Closely check the bunk door seals.

2000 was only the second year of production for the Roo/Shamrock Hybrid lines. So they had numerous growing pains.
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Old 05-28-2018, 01:48 PM   #4
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Ooo! Wiscampsin, that looks nifty!! Def going on the list!!
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Old 05-28-2018, 01:49 PM   #5
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Bikendan, ya... We've discovered the tent end doors need serious repair. Research has begun... Those closures look janky, so I'm putting the upgraded clamps on the list!! Good thinking!!
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:51 PM   #6
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We have a 2010 Rockwood Roo Hybrid which is new to us. I cleaned the mildew off of the cloth bunk end windows. We went on our first camping trip with this trailer and it rained. The blankets at the by the bunk end windows got wet. We tried a waterproof from the local dealer and windows were still wet. Spoke to the manufacturer (T J Snuggles) this morning and they told us to use Scotchgard Heavy Duty Water Shield (green can).

I have read on this site that others have treated the outside of the bunk end windows twice on the outside and once on the inside with no further issues.

The gentleman at T J Snuggles asked what I used to remove the mildew and I told him a product from a local dealership. He said next time 1/2 water and 1/2 bleach. A lot cheaper than what we have used.

We are still learning about our hybrid too.... we had a 2002 Rockwood Premier Pop-Up before this trailer. Enjoy!!!
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshine.grrl View Post
Bikendan, ya... We've discovered the tent end doors need serious repair. Research has begun... Those closures look janky, so I'm putting the upgraded clamps on the list!! Good thinking!!
This seems to be what most people with those type of closers upgrade to;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Doo...tW2OPm&vxp=mtr
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Finster View Post
This seems to be what most people with those type of closers upgrade to;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Doo...tW2OPm&vxp=mtr
Yep!
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:28 PM   #9
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We Just bought a 2014 Roo 19 and couldn't be happier with the purchase. Had to replace, the water pump, cable for trailer brakes, toilet pump assembly, and the screen door inside latch assembly, and some other minor things. I am about $ 625 into repairs, but we got her for approximately $ 6,000 under retail value
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Old 07-01-2018, 01:04 PM   #10
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Well, friends, we're elbows-deep in it now... We repaired the bunk end doors and reinforced them with plywood on the insides. Hubs fixed up the wheel well damage from previous owner's blown tire. I did my magic cleaning thing on the canvases to remove mildew stains and water leaking ugliness and they turned out really good. Man, that was a messy job!

Now, we're troubleshooting poorly sealing bunk end doors (when stowed) and how to best fix the squishy floor... It's really sad that this little camper was cared for so poorly. So much fixing, and most of it would have been really easy to prevent... I'll post some pics, before and after...
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Old 07-01-2018, 05:44 PM   #11
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Wow! Huge difference with the canvas. Didn't think it would come out that good looking at the before pics.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:25 PM   #12
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Me neither, honestly. I used some stuff from Menards in a gray spray bottle. Noxious stuff...

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Old 07-15-2018, 03:01 PM   #13
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Got the new floor in today despite 90° heat!! Trying to do the bathroom, also, but we're not sure what the toilet needs to accommodate the 5/8" of extra floor thickness... Anyone have some insight for us? Hubs is removing it now... Click image for larger version

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Old 07-15-2018, 09:27 PM   #14
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Don't know what to tell you on the toilet, but I'm wondering what/how you're fastening the plywood to the old foam/luan floor?
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:50 AM   #15
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Well, the toilet bit worked out perfectly... The flange just slides down into the tank through a gasket and the pipe length on the bottom of the flange was plenty long enough to go back in place on top of the new floor! Score!

We have been going back and forth about how to fortify the floor for weeks. Learning that the floor is literally 1/4" plywood and foam was really concerning. So, we chose 5/8" plywood and careful placement of seams so each piece of new wood is secure and no tanks were punctured. Husband had to weld a few brackets underneath, but mainly (I understand) the existing metal frame rails allowed for treated 2x4 supports to be added. We then mapped these to the inside to run 4 1/2" screws through to the new supports. Considering that this camper is almost 20 years old, was poorly maintained, and built like a foam cooler, the floor is probably now the most substantial part of its construction... Hubs has had to go through every single system and inch of the camper, repairing and troubleshooting.

After having learned that the whole camper is essentially made of luan and foam, I am glad we didn't gut the inside and rip out the old floor. I don't think we would have been any better off in the end...
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:53 AM   #16
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Thanks. Glad it seems to be working out.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:18 AM   #17
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So, here's my next noob question: what do you do to the front mattress when the camper is closed up? How does it fold? The back one folded up nice, no problems... The front one is being dumb and I'm wondering if there's something I'm missing...
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:21 PM   #18
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Don't know what to tell you on the toilet, but I'm wondering what/how you're fastening the plywood to the old foam/luan floor?
I don't know what the used but the proper screws are called wing tips. Most drywall supply houses have them for about $3.00 per pound
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:27 PM   #19
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I don't know what the used but the proper screws are called wing tips. Most drywall supply houses have them for about $3.00 per pound
https://www.strongtie.com/metalscrew...rew-with-wings
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:33 PM   #20
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Interesting. Hubs had 4.5" coarse thread drywall screws, and they seem to be doing perfectly following the maiden voyage into town for weighing...
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