2014 Roo Bed End height differential

ChibullsAN · 04-23-2014, 08:05 AM

I have heard a few mentions of the expandable ends on a Roo having a drop of some kind from where the mattress sits on the cabinetry and the fold down bunk end platform (at the hinge area). I have a 2014 Roo 21DK. The front bunk end has a small ~3/4 drop, the rear bunk is almost ~2"

. It is incredibly uncomfortable to lay on since you are basically laying on this large step, at least on the rear bunk end.

My question to those of you reading this, if you have a Roo, is yours like this? Is it just a select few of us? Is it a certain year?

And most importantly what did you do to fix (if anything)?

My solution to this seems simple, but we will see... I plan on buying the white or pink insulation foam board sold at 'HomeDepot' in 4'x8' sheets to glue on the bunk end areas that are low. Then the mattress sits on that. Its light weight and when its glued in, I'll never have to deal with it again. Thoughts?

chriscowles · 04-23-2014, 10:58 AM

We don't have one yet but I'm glad someone else validated my concern. I'm also happy to hear the front is more comfortable since I only looked at the rear and assumed they were alike. At least only one has to be adapted for comfort.

Chris

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ParrishCamper · 04-23-2014, 02:09 PM

Our 2014 233S Roo is the same. Great ideal. Think I may go that direction as well.
We only camped once but I felt like I had to sleep on the wall while my husband slept on the door.

Buckeyecmpr · 04-23-2014, 04:09 PM

My 2011 233S has the newer bunks and has the varying heights as well. I used cheap styrofoam insulation board and it works well to help even out the mattress. I did not glue them in, however. I talked with people at FR while at the rally last year and they were aware...just no real remedy as of yet. IIRC it had something to do with the bunk door size, frame, seals, etc. If you don't mind getting the insulation board, it does work. Don't get the really cheap stuff like I did...too many white pellets coming off in the camper. I will probably upgrade the board sometime this year.

ChibullsAN · 04-23-2014, 04:11 PM

For reference.....

chriscowles · 04-23-2014, 04:27 PM

My observation is similar for the rear bunk of a 19, on a dealer's lot. I didn't look at the front, not thinking that they might be different.

chriscowles · 04-23-2014, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckeyecmpr

I talked with people at FR while at the rally last year and they were aware...just no real remedy as of yet. IIRC it had something to do with the bunk door size, frame, seals, etc.

How could they think it was okay to begin with?

ChibullsAN · 04-23-2014, 04:30 PM

It's a good 2 inches from the White strip to the mattress floor, but it's 1.5" for that floor to the cabinet wood surface. I'm running out and buying the foam shortly to install. I'll take your word and get the better foam and not the white kind that will fall apart. Good call!

ChibullsAN · 04-23-2014, 04:33 PM

The two white trim pieces that hold the seams of the canvass, when folded together will basically touch. So even with foam there I will have to stop the foam at the trim piece on the bunk end bottom. When the bunk is down like in the picture.... I'll have to have a piece that I insert when it's open. BUT I will have to be careful not to put a lot of pressure on that canvass seam on the hinge or I could damage the canvass or rubber seal on the outside.

rbq · 04-23-2014, 05:26 PM

My 2010 233S is even with the trim when the beds are down. We noticed this on the new Roo's at the RV show this spring. Don't understand why they have to have the drop down. They may want to take a look at their Coachmen cousins & see how they have done their attached canvas on the bunks. Last one I saw I was impressed with how they had done it.

ChibullsAN · 04-23-2014, 06:47 PM

Ahhhhh... that's better. Wife agrees as the mattress lays flat and even with the gap under where the hinge is, the mattress doesn't sag there, yet.

So to recap this was the pink Styrofoam insulation from homedepot. This was the 1.5" thick on the back. I cut it to fit the floor perfectly and it didn't need to be glued, yet. Wait til I drive down the road and it falls out, but as of now the mattress holds it in place when folded up.

RabidRoo · 04-23-2014, 07:22 PM

We have a 2014 233S (6/13 build) and it has the same situation. The foam boards seem like the best solution for now. I'll have to pick some up and lay them in there. Maybe that will help insulate also. It's going to be in the 30's here tonight and we can't wait !!

Buckeyecmpr · 04-23-2014, 07:36 PM

ChibullsAN,

I believe that's how I did mine. Don't notice that gap. These height variances occurred after the 2011 bunk design. I didn't have the issue until I had bunk replacements as they are quite larger. Just pulled mine out of the garage and prepping for a local trip this weekend. Whole family ready to kick off the season...finally!

ChibullsAN · 04-23-2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RabidRoo

We have a 2014 233S (6/13 build) and it has the same situation. The foam boards seem like the best solution for now. I'll have to pick some up and lay them in there. Maybe that will help insulate also. It's going to be in the 30's here tonight and we can't wait !!

Well seeing that it is insulation foam with an r value of 7.5 and it's directly under the mattress, I would conclude that it would help.

chriscowles · 04-23-2014, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChibullsAN

So to recap this was the pink Styrofoam insulation from homedepot. This was the 1.5" thick on the back. I cut it to fit the floor perfectly and it didn't need to be glued, yet. Wait til I drive down the road and it falls out, but as of now the mattress holds it in place when folded up.

Seeing the result, I'll look into buying a more compressible high-density foam (urethane?) big enough to cover the same area and fill in the gap. I'll lay the Styrofoam sheet over that, bridging the transition, then lay the Roo mattress on top of that.

If that works I'll bond the Styrofoam to the urethane, split it down the middle, and create a hinge with tape of some kind. I'll orient the split perpindicular to the split in the regular mattress.

Now, why couldn't Forest River put a thick layer of urethane foam on the bottom of their fancy inner-spring mattress, filling in the gap the same way? They'd only have to do it for the back bunk.

Considering the care they seem to put into everything else, this is inconsistent.

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