AC power

[Reynolds551]

2014 Shamrock 213KSS. Out camping this weekend, no issues until Monday AM, no AC inside camper (AC, microwave, outlets). 110 going to breaker panel, and each breaker, but nothing past the breaker panel. DC fuses all good. Any suggestions

[jtstromsburg]

So you've Checked for 110v at panel in your camper and have it there, but not coming out?
Gotta be 30 amp main in that panel then.

[Reynolds551]

there's a main breaker an there are other breakers in line with the main, AC, microwave and the wall outlets. the main is working when I turn it on and off. the other breakers work. now I'm checking from green ground to the black wire on the breaker.

[Bama Rambler]

When checking for voltage, are you checking between hot and the ground bar or between hot and the neutral (white wires) bar?

[Bluepill]

Your outlets are usually protected by a GFCI. Usually one GFCI outlet feeds other "standard" outlets "downstream", so when the GFCI trips, the other outlets go dead.

http://www.electrical101.com/gfci-line-load-wiring.html

It is unusual to have the A/C on a GFCI circuit, but not impossible. The thermostat for your A/C may be run off of 12 volts DC. Check the manual for that info.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Reynolds551

there's a main breaker an there are other breakers in line with the main, AC, microwave and the wall outlets. the main is working when I turn it on and off. the other breakers work. now I'm checking from green ground to the black wire on the breaker.

Unless I am reading something into this...maybe the 30amp(main) was tripped.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Reynolds551]

hay campers back again. the no power issue. the breakers never tripped, we were using a one cup coffee maker. We made one cup then we tried to make a second cup and the power went out. there is 120 at all the black breaker wires, checking from the green ground wire.

[Bama Rambler]

That leads me to believe you have a neutral issue. Did you check the voltage between black and white?

Are you sure you didn't trip a GFCI receptacle somewhere?

[Reynolds551]

hay Bama Rambler: the only GFCI is in the bath room. that was not tripped. that's what I don't get not one of the breakers tripped. There is 120 from the ground to the neutral, I will go out right now and check voltage between black and white.

[rockfordroo]

Try plugging something else in. Maybe your coffee maker is shot.

[Reynolds551]

no voltage from black to white. I did see on the panel description the second breaker it says GFCI along with fridge. I don't know where that would.

[Bama Rambler]

If there's significant voltage between ground and neutral you definitely have an open neutral. You need to unhook it from shore power until you find it. If it hasn't already fried a bunch of appliances.

[Bama Rambler]

I change my diagnosis. It looks like you have a hot neutral. You need to spend some time finding it, but be very careful. remember there is voltage between hot and ground and between neutral (white) and ground.

[Reynolds551]

there is no voltage from white to black, which. The front panel cover has a description for every breaker, the second breaker says GFCI, fridge. I don't know where that GFCI would be.

[Reynolds551]

there is no voltage from white to black.

[Bluepill]

OK, let's follow the fault.

1. You have voltage from the hot to ground. That means that the hot (black) line is good to where your are testing.

2. You have no voltage DIFFERENCE between the black and white. I suspect that the neutral circuit has been broken somewhere and some LOAD attached beyond the point of the break is feeding "HOT" back to the neutral wire.

Please do this test just to confirm what you have already stated:

Do you have 120 volts between the ground and BOTH the black and white wire?

If so, try this:

Monitor the ground to neutral voltage and switch off one circuit breaker at a time. By this I mean start at one end of the line of breakers and turn one off, then check the G-N voltage. If it still exists, leave that breaker off and then turn the next breaker off also. At some point, I suspect that you will have the G-N voltage drop to zero. That will confirm my idea from point 2 above.

The most likely cause of an open circuit on either the neutral or hot is the "Back Stab" connections at an outlet. They happen much more often in RV use that in home use because of the vibration caused by road travel.

[Reynolds551]

well I don't have 120 at white and black, that tells me the neutral white is open. I gained access to the power end going into the trailer. there is the problem the receptacle white was loose, I have to pull the plug out of TT an repair the white wire conection

[Reynolds551]

thanks for your help everybody. Im not a big texer haha, but its nice to know there are fellow campers out there that are willing to help people out.

[Bluepill]

Great news!

Is the bad connection a screw connection?

Thanks for the reminder. I need to check the screws on all the breakers and buss bars before the big Summer trip. I will look at the inlet socket also.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by Bluepill

I need to check the screws on all the breakers and buss bars before the big Summer trip. I will look at the inlet socket also.

Good idea, but what I found while installing my hard wired EMS was all the AC connections were overtightened. The square drive heads on both the neutral and ground bars as well as all the breakers were stripped out to the point that you're never getting them loose if needed. On the DC side the heavy gauge ground to chassis was loose and the negative wire to battery pulled out of its lug just from moving the power center around.

Great QC on the electrical inspections. I feel so secure having that RVIA certification sticker.