I have a 16 Shamrock 233s. I’m having a AC issues, the unit will kick on then bog right down and kick the compressor off, but sometimes it will bog down and come right back up like normal , I found out today my younger son tried to run it at home on a 110v 15 amp circuit and blew the breaker a few times and melted the-adapter plug. know this is what probably damaged it . Any suggestions on what to look for or test before I bring it in ?
run it at home on a 110v 15 amp circuit and blew the breaker a few times and melted the-adapter plug.
Well what adapter plug did he melt? The 30 to 15 amp dogbone plug that fits household sockets?
This is a starting point to an in-expensive ($20) POSSIBLE fix that you can do BEFORE calling in an expensive RV tech to further diagnose if this does not fix your problem. In any case you are not going to make anything worse if it does NOT fix the problem.
If you are handy at all, take a philips screwdriver up on the roof, take off the AC shroud, then there is a metal panel on the side that needs to come off. Inside you will see a silvery round can that looks like a small can of soda. That part may need to be replaced. It is a capacitor that gives a little extra omph to the compressor when starting. If it is weak or going bad then you will get the trouble you describe.
Even though this shows a residential unit the concept applies to your AC also.
Be sure to do what is described around the 4:20 mark of this video... that is discharge the cap with a screwdriver to avoid a shock. OF COURSE unplug the entire trailer from the power pedestal. You can wear gloves too. Use a needle nose pliers to pull those connectors off and push them back on. Take a picture before dis-connecting so you can get the wires back on the correct plug ends.
Find out what size can you need as is indicated on the video, then order from amazon, or find an electric motor repair place or HVAC place that will sell you one at a reasonable price. I have heard of being charged $80 for this $20 part, so call around. 5/45 or 5/50 are pretty common for residential units... not sure what is on your roof top.
This is an easy in-expensive fix for the problem you describe. WHile up there you may also want to hose off the condenser fins and clean out any insect nests you may find which can also cause this type of problem.
Below is a pic of my Coleman roof unit showing the silver cap, and the panel that hides it that needs to be removed.
Hard to imagine a start capacitor failing after 4 years but I guess it's possible.
They can fail a lot faster than that. I almost recommend for everyone to keep a spare around. Most duals are $15-20 and singles $5-10. The American companies have started making them again, but they are still junk.
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Hard to imagine a start capacitor failing after 4 years but I guess it's possible.
Especially considering that my 95 Terry's A/C never had capacitors replaced in the 22 years I owned it. A/C worked great and i ran it regularly off a regular outlet.
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My point is, don't "shotgun" the problem. Do some basic troubleshooting fitst. It's free. Could be loose connection at breakers, shore power cord or connection at the AC itself.
Thanks all! I will check it out , i did notice the power surges like crazy at the state park , lights would dim down here and there then brighten right back up, noticed it on my mother in laws camper as well....
Well what adapter plug did he melt? The 30 to 15 amp dogbone plug that fits household sockets?
This is a starting point to an in-expensive ($20) POSSIBLE fix that you can do BEFORE calling in an expensive RV tech to further diagnose if this does not fix your problem. In any case you are not going to make anything worse if it does NOT fix the problem.
If you are handy at all, take a philips screwdriver up on the roof, take off the AC shroud, then there is a metal panel on the side that needs to come off. Inside you will see a silvery round can that looks like a small can of soda. That part may need to be replaced. It is a capacitor that gives a little extra omph to the compressor when starting. If it is weak or going bad then you will get the trouble you describe.
Even though this shows a residential unit the concept applies to your AC also.
Be sure to do what is described around the 4:20 mark of this video... that is discharge the cap with a screwdriver to avoid a shock. OF COURSE unplug the entire trailer from the power pedestal. You can wear gloves too. Use a needle nose pliers to pull those connectors off and push them back on. Take a picture before dis-connecting so you can get the wires back on the correct plug ends.
Find out what size can you need as is indicated on the video, then order from amazon, or find an electric motor repair place or HVAC place that will sell you one at a reasonable price. I have heard of being charged $80 for this $20 part, so call around. 5/45 or 5/50 are pretty common for residential units... not sure what is on your roof top.
This is an easy in-expensive fix for the problem you describe. WHile up there you may also want to hose off the condenser fins and clean out any insect nests you may find which can also cause this type of problem.
Below is a pic of my Coleman roof unit showing the silver cap, and the panel that hides it that needs to be removed.
He melted the plug that adapts normal outlet to the camper plug, basically melted them together , I pried them apart with no damage to RV plug side .