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Old 04-03-2015, 06:40 PM   #21
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Is there not some differences in the 2014 and newer bunk design with those designs from earlier models? I seem to recall seeing a picture of a 2011 (maybe) model and the bunk hinges did not look like my Shamrock 183's hinges with a build date of Sept 2013?

Just wondering if we are all talking about the same design year and if there is a difference in those hinges and the sealing of the bunk frames...
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:26 PM   #22
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Is there not some differences in the 2014 and newer bunk design with those designs from earlier models? I seem to recall seeing a picture of a 2011 (maybe) model and the bunk hinges did not look like my Shamrock 183's hinges with a build date of Sept 2013?

Just wondering if we are all talking about the same design year and if there is a difference in those hinges and the sealing of the bunk frames...
There is a difference. I've lost track since I stopped fabricating leak solutions, but FR is on the 4th or 5th iteration. Based on posters to these forums, FR still doesn't have a true, uniform solution for complete leak-proof sealing on every unit. They have, with absolute certainty, reduced the propensity of leaking exponentially with the later designs.
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Old 04-04-2015, 07:54 AM   #23
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I have a 22ss I put the cross support on the top of the bed works fine
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:38 AM   #24
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Youse Guys Know Your Stuff...Thank you

Thanks.....just did the drill.

1. Pull the fold in the mattress about 1 inch inboard of hinge.
2. Place the crook support on the crease of the fold.
3. Drop the hoop support onto the mattress.
4. Close windows and turn on power vents.
5. Close the door and go out to lift panels and latch them.
6. Helps to fold upper corner of canopy toward the opposite corner. Watch to make sure nothing gets pinched.
7. If it doesn't seem to latch in easily, go back and verify you pulled the mattress in to correct position (leave the bigger hammer in the tool box)
8. For outside storage between trips, dropping the front end down below level just add a margin of safety in avoiding rain water finding its way through seals.



BTW: I spent the entire day yesterday in removing bumper panels placed in various storage spaces on the 183.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:26 PM   #25
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Ok, all this mattress talk makes me ask the question. How do I keep the mattresses from sliding out when the bunk is up? We have a 2015 233S and the front bunk mattress slides and sticks out with the canvass all billowed out over the top. It's kind of irritating when I'm in there trying to do anything.
I find if you have the mattress heating model they are thick enough not to fall. When I had my old TT, I would put a bungee from one cable on the bed to the other and hold it up.
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:16 AM   #26
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Update! I went into the camper to close one of the ends up, as it is going to rain tomorrow. I closed the door, opened both roof vents over the fans. I pulled the mattress a bit forward, dropped the crossbar, put the hook inside the fold of the mattress. Then I turned on both fans and presto! the canvas sucked right into the camper! I went outside, closed the door and simply folded up the bed platform all by myself. Nothing in the hinges or stuck in the seals. I can't believe it was so simple...and I'm only 5'3"! Thank you to whoever posted this video! What an easy way to pack up!
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Old 04-07-2015, 04:13 AM   #27
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Unhook the bungy cords to gain access to the mattress snaps, fold the mattress in two and connect the snaps. Drop the hoop over the mattress so it's on top."Voila" you are done.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:07 AM   #28
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Dont have bungy cords...the ends are sealed.
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Old 04-07-2015, 03:02 PM   #29
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Unhook the bungy cords to gain access to the mattress snaps, fold the mattress in two and connect the snaps. Drop the hoop over the mattress so it's on top."Voila" you are done.
TinkerToy, hybrids haven't had bungee/snaps tent ends for at least 4 years now.
all manufacturers are making them with pre-attached tent ends.
no more bungees and no more snaps.
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Old 04-07-2015, 03:32 PM   #30
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1. Pull the fold in the mattress about 1 inch inboard of hinge.
2. Place the crook support on the crease of the fold.
3. Drop the hoop support onto the mattress.
4. Close windows and turn on power vents.
5. Close the door and go out to lift panels and latch them.
6. Helps to fold upper corner of canopy toward the opposite corner. Watch to make sure nothing gets pinched.
7. If it doesn't seem to latch in easily, go back and verify you pulled the mattress in to correct position (leave the bigger hammer in the tool box)
8. For outside storage between trips, dropping the front end down below level just add a margin of safety in avoiding rain water finding its way through seals.
sparty047
This is the best closing write-up I have seen...

I hope the bunk end seals are a lot better then they used to be since they changed the design a few years ago. I just had 4 inches of rain in 24 hours two days ago. 95% of the camper is under a canopy except for the very front. Today I pulled the front bunk down to check for water leakage and found none on my 2014 183. Maybe when the seals get older they may stop to seal properly...

I wonder if you can buy that rubber seal material in bulk somewhere?
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:24 PM   #31
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My question. How can turning on the fans do anything? The hybrids are not airtight by any means..yes i have one...just curious
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:37 PM   #32
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The hybrids are not airtight by any means..yes i have one...just curious
My 2014 is pretty airtight... providing of course you have all the zipper windows shut. As you close up the bunks the fabric around the bunks sucks in. There is a utube video that shows this and it certainly happens to mine also. Requires both Fantastic fans to be on.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:54 PM   #33
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My question. How can turning on the fans do anything? The hybrids are not airtight by any means..yes i have one...just curious
Huge difference in the new Roos. My 2015 is very tight. I just run one exhaust fan and it sucks the fabric right in when I am closing up. Remember, the fabric is now sealed, no more snaps or bungee cords... or as I have heard, no more kids falling out in the middle of the night.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:12 PM   #34
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Huge difference in the new Roos. My 2015 is very tight. I just run one exhaust fan and it sucks the fabric right in when I am closing up. Remember, the fabric is now sealed, no more snaps or bungee cords... or as I have heard, no more kids falling out in the middle of the night.
Umm..errr....had that happen in my first pup back in '94. 15 month old was on the couch bed to prevent that. (picture in the owners manual showed a stick figure child being strangled by the bungee). We brought a teenager to help out DW was 7 mo pregnant and the teenager was a close family friend. My son started fussing in the middle of the night so our teenager picked him up and brought him to her bunk. Next thing the whining went from being in the camper to being outside the camper. I jumped up and ran outside and he was fine. We were camping on Cape Cod so the ground was soft sand and pine needles. Celebrating his 22nd birthday this Friday.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:40 AM   #35
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My wife had an issue when the door was closed just opening/closing the slides. She noticed an immediate difference when she opened the door. So they do seem to be pretty tight. That is not to say that air does not get in/out, it just means that there is not a lot of flow possible. This is a good thing when working with the end bunks.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:33 AM   #36
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Oh it's pretty air tight. I closed my rear bunk the other day with this method. Now mind you, the front bunk was still open (but windows zipped closed) and when I closed the door and turned the fans on it sucked the canvas right inside the tent! When I opened the door to go outside and close the bunk end, it was like a cake falling...but as soon as my husband closed the door, I stood at the bunk end outside and it was pretty awesome...it sucked that canvas right into the camper again. I closed the end up effortlessly. I can only imagine it will be even more effective when I close up the front bunk while the back is already closed. :0
I guess they are more airtight than you think, Rrick. Mine is a 201423IKSS.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:38 AM   #37
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heres the video..
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:54 PM   #38
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Ok, I'm the guilty one who made the video last fall. At the time many of the new Roo owners were asking and wondering how well it worked by turning the fans on while closing the ends. When I tried it the first time I was amazed how air tight they are, so I slapped the video together. It's unfortunate that it only works on the new style bunk ends.

I've learned so much about our Roo from this forum, it's nice to be able to give back something in return. Thanks for the kind words regarding the video.
Jim
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:31 PM   #39
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While it definitely works much better on the sealed ends, it does help on the snap and bungee older style too. I have a 2010 model 17. Even with just the one fans it helps make it easier to clear the canvas from the seals. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:21 PM   #40
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I was told by seller to fold cross member between the mattress, and the maintenance personnel said to put it(cross member) under the mattress, by completely taking mattress out and storing it after hard cover was flipped up and stored, then store the mattress. I don't see that happening.
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