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Old 03-19-2012, 01:19 PM   #1
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Bunk latch upgrade complete

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to share with you the that upgrade is now complete and I am happy that it went as well as it did. It took me several hours over a weekend to complete it, but once I dove in and started working on it, it went pretty fast after the first one.

First, a picture:


The old style handles were breaking apart from the sun damage over the years. So it had to happen sooner than later.

Next, a parts list that I used:
1) I ordered the latch set from my local rv part supply dealer, 100 bucks per set (2 sets - front and back). All sets have a lock on them and they are all keyed alike, so good to go there. A little expensive I thought, but whatever... These also came with the pads for the back of the arms and note that this set actually has only 2 holes to attach the arm to the frame instead of 4 like i've seen in some other sets.
2) 8 - 1" long 5/8" wide sheet metal screws (non slotted). This bolted on the latch onto the sides of the door, not the door itself. 1" did not penetrate the interior either. (Hint - the frame on my 2k Roo seemed to have aluminum frame closest to the door...too far away from the door and all you hit was wood. So, i kept them all butted up to the frame as you can see in the picture.)
3) 12 - 1/4"-20x2" Machine screws and 12 matching 1/4"-20 T-nuts. This tied the locking mechanism onto the door. Note: no plating was used on the inside of the door, they seem to be holding just fine so far. We'll see how it goes going down the road later. I can always buy the screws again and install back plating later if needed.
4) 1 tube of silicon caulking, white.

That was pretty much it. I pre-drilled the holes on the outsides of the door first once i marked its placement with the latch. Then used a smaller bit to pre-drill the holes into the aluminum frame. Once I started to bolt the arms on, it was very strong (lucky i guess). I did caulk the previous screw holes behind the new arms before i installed them, just for the piece of mind. Once I had the door mechanisms drilled though and tightened, I took the dremel and cut the rest of the machine screw off so that it didn't penetrate my mattress. Finally, I caulked around all new parts, making sure that some of the extra holes were plugged up and then locked everything up and we're off to the races. I am also betting that this may cut down my setup time by at least 10 minutes.

I hope this may help some folks out there as I have had the locks in my garage for almost 18 months before i finally had to get it done. Going to the RV dealer to install them was not a good option for me, the new hardware was $200 and the dealer i bought them from wanted another $200 to install them. I would guess that I saved about $180 doing them myself. HAH!!!

Cheers!

Joe
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:28 PM   #2
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Looks good and nice write-up, Joe.
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:12 PM   #3
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Thank you! I will admit, after hearing many stories of people having to drill all the way thru into the cabin to mount these, I was pretty nervous. In fact I bought all the hardware including backing plates to do just that. But when I drilled that first hole and hit frame, I almost did a back flip off the stool I was standing on! LOL! The next project on the agenda is to scrape all the 12 year old caulking on the trailer and redo it all again, now that I'm a pro at it.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:51 AM   #4
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I can see how you'd be happy about that.

Have you considered using eternabond after you get rid off the old caulk?
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:31 PM   #5
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You know, I haven't really thought too much about the one that i'm going to use. Is that the caulking of choice these days? I can say that I didn't use that around the bunk latches and where I re-caulked around the bed pole brackets...but it's never too late if you recommend that I do so.

We have some spring time showers heading this way later in the week too, so it may not be a bad idea for me to check into the eternabond soon if that's the case.
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:34 PM   #6
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Eternabond isn't caulking.
it's a sheet of material used on RVs to seal areas, like where the rubber roof meets the front cap of the trailer. used especially to repair roof leaks.
check out their website.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:04 PM   #7
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I guess if I were going to redo my roof and sides I would opt for the Eternabond. As Dan said, check our their site and also search here for other users. Very effective stuff, I hear. Put on once and that's it for those areas.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:27 PM   #8
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Excellent, thank you for the tip.
I will take a look and determine if I'm up for this next challenge.
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