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Old 05-19-2020, 08:27 AM   #1
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Cargo door addition on front of Shamrock 19

Has anyone added a cargo door to the front of their 19 to access the long area in front? I have a 2019 that has the small door on the right side that provides access to the water filter and pump in a space that is full width. I moved the pump/water out of the way to access the storage there but accessing the back of it is very difficult since it's 6 feet in. If I could add a door it would be much more useful space. I was thinking of ordering and installing the same door on the front left (see picture for location outline) but am worried about hitting framing. I'm hoping maybe someone already did this up front and has some measurements for a safe location - I found several threads about adding a cargo door but they were for the rear.


Thanks


Justin




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Old 05-20-2020, 05:08 PM   #2
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I wrote a baggage door add-in post for my 183 hybrid several years ago... maybe you saw it. I think the difference between yours and mine is 3 bunks Vs 2. I have never seen any other door add-on post.

I think I would approach adding your door by drilling one small tiny hole from the inside out. This tiny hole could be patched with a dab of caulk if/when necessary.

From that one hole, drilled either low or high and left or right (hi-right or low-left if you get my meaning) into the siding will give you a reference spot to measure from the inside and then transfer those measurements to the outside. I have an access door below the front bunk and on the inside near the door where I can squeeze myself to get measurements in that open area... I hope you do also.

I would measure or transfer using tracing paper a box shaped area showing the MAX un-obstructed area where there is no structure in the frame that will interfere with your new cutout. Use blue masking tape to put this on the outside to visualize your area.

Then shop for a new baggage door. This new door obviously needs to be within the masked area. Once you have the baggage door in hand, then start by tracing the cutout on more blue tape on the front panel. Use your drill and jig saw to then cutout the siding using the marks on the blue tape. THe tape will help protect the un-cut surface of the camper.

hope this helps

Roger
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:16 AM   #3
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Thanks Roger - I really appreciate the additional detail on the process. That seems straight forward. I think I can reach the area from the sofa area with a bit of stretching. Thanks again - if I add the door I’ll post some pictures.

Justin
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:02 AM   #4
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I would think about putting the baggage door on the side instead of on the front... worried about water leakage and wind-forced infiltration into that area when driving in a pouring rain.

Then there is the problem of actually finding a baggage door... I only found one place to order one and that took a long time to get as I recall, with an investment up-front.

I was able to purchase from Lowes an aluminum box that fits fine on the tongue that gives me storage for tools, leveling blocks, and my battery. The Overhang was needed because I had to leave enough room on the tongue for the WDH brackets. Just needed to move propane tanks forward an inch or so.

I can send you measurements if you are interested.
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Old 05-22-2020, 05:19 AM   #5
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Before I went drilling through your siding regardless of how small and easily patched the holes are Id want to know the layout of the framing members.

Since you have access to one side of the space a simple and inexpensive inspection camera, taped to a stick so you can maneuver it and connected to your phone should allow you to see precisely what you are dealing with from the inside. This solution will not work if the inside of the space is covered by paneling.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LED-Wirel...1c61e150183841

Another solution would be a "Stud Finder", some of them are ultrasonic and are able to locate metal framing members,

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zircon-1-5-...Finder/3092949

I like the idea of the door on the side to prevent water intrusion and also for ease of access. A thin plywood box that could slide in and out would allow for maximum usage of what is now "dead" space.
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Old 05-22-2020, 09:02 AM   #6
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I didn't think of the the rain pressure from the front. Putting it on the side may be difficult. I used a stud finder and I'm pretty sure I located the various supports nearby. That inspection camera is cool though - I may get one of those just for all the times I could have used it on projects.

I found a solution for a pull out drawer that I could mount to access some of the dead space by removing one of those flimsy dividers and then will some plumbing rerouting I was able to access more of it.

Roger - I'd love the measurements - between a tool box upfront and the slide out drawer maybe I should just be good losing some of the dead space but not cutting the side/sourcing a door.

Thanks

Justin
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:15 AM   #7
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Justin,

Shamrock (Roo) 183 with 3 bunks... similar measurements I believe to Roo 19.

Tool box measures 4 ft wide but only 8 inches wide at the bottom. I got it at Lowes. I moved the propane rack a couple of inches forward, just enough so the white cover touches the back of the electric jack. This gives just enough room to put my hand between the white propane cover and the lid to open the box... it is tight though. See 16 inches measurement from where the A-frame member dips under the camper to where my WDH latch needs to be, which is why I was limited to the 8 inch wide box. However 8 inches was enough to put in a plastic battery box to house my group 27 Marine/RV battery. See also 3 1/2 inches from camper white portion bottom to back of box. This left about 1/2 inch clearance to the camper with the lid open. Bunk door can swing down with lid open. I usually leave lid open while camping as it is protected from rain with bunk down and I have some basic hand tools in there plus battery drill and socket to use on stab jacks.

I purchased the box from Lowes and took it home to test fit. It did, so I kept it and fastened everything down. Been there since fall of 2014 with no issues.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:22 AM   #8
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I also added a 5 inch X 8 foot square tube fastened with SS hose clamps to house my surf rods as they are 7 feet long. This is just ahead of the front wheels. Many discussions here about using this setup to house the "stinky slinky" tube. I keep mine in the back bumper. Additionally I made a 6.5 foot long 6 inch PVC tube with front screw cap to house a set of PVC awning supports I made. This is supported in the front with various brackets and clamps to existing support members. You can see this tube just peeking out from below in the last picture.
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2014 RAM 1500 Bighorn Crew Cab, HEMI, 3.21 gears, 8 Spd, 4X4 TST TPMS
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:19 AM   #9
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The storage under our dinette was very hard to get to. We installed a baggage door on the outside.

Not a hard job but it took tons of planing. Cheapest baggage doors were on ebay.
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