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05-15-2016, 03:46 PM
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#41
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bareftn
WOW that last pic is one heck of a lock Is it home made or where did you buy it?
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Looks like the same one that I got from Harbor Freight.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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05-15-2016, 05:16 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 110
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THANKS for all of the comments and tips. I'll try them to see what works for me. As I originally posted, I can release the lever OK, but the ball does not release from the coupler. Because it was raining pretty hard when I got home from the dealer on Friday evening, I did not try a lot of different things. I just pulled the pin from my receiver, and drove the truck off of the hitch, which then dropped free of the trailer coupler.
I then put the hitch in the workshop, and my wife & I headed out for a fish fry and a few beers (that ALWAYS makes me feel better !)
__________________
2018 Flagstaff 25FKS
2015 Ram 1500
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05-15-2016, 05:19 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 110
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One factor may be that my driveway is on a slight incline, and I have the truck at an angle to the trailer (to fit the trailer on the parking pad I can't back straight onto it.) So it may be possible that the ball is jamming because of this combination. I intend to take the trailer to a local (level) parking lot tomorrow evening and see how it works on level ground. During the PDI, it was a little sticky, but did couple/uncouple, although the truck & trailer were in a straight line on level ground when we did this.
__________________
2018 Flagstaff 25FKS
2015 Ram 1500
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05-15-2016, 05:26 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeseheadjim
One factor may be that my driveway is on a slight incline, and I have the truck at an angle to the trailer (to fit the trailer on the parking pad I can't back straight onto it.) So it may be possible that the ball is jamming because of this combination. I intend to take the trailer to a local (level) parking lot tomorrow evening and see how it works on level ground. During the PDI, it was a little sticky, but did couple/uncouple, although the truck & trailer were in a straight line on level ground when we did this.
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That may be a factor, but I hope not. You will never be able to put it into any kind of "perfect" alignment at a campground. (I'm usually happy just to get it into the site at all!) You need to figure out how to get it off irrespective of the alignment.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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05-15-2016, 08:16 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 1,658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeseheadjim
One factor may be that my driveway is on a slight incline, and I have the truck at an angle to the trailer (to fit the trailer on the parking pad I can't back straight onto it.) So it may be possible that the ball is jamming because of this combination. I intend to take the trailer to a local (level) parking lot tomorrow evening and see how it works on level ground. During the PDI, it was a little sticky, but did couple/uncouple, although the truck & trailer were in a straight line on level ground when we did this.
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A few trips back, I had to raise 1 side of the TT with my Anderson levelers to get level. When I went to unhitch, it was hard to get the ball to drop out of the coupler. With a few shakes and putting the truck in reverse a few times, it finally dropped out. I figured it was in a sideways bind of sorts. Hooking up was just as interesting.
My .02.
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2012 Flagstaff V Lite 30 WRLTS
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.7 Mag Hemi 3.72 Rearaxle
Nights camped 2015 = 23
Nights camped 2016 = 25
Nights camped 2017 = 13
Nights camped 2018 = 3
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05-16-2016, 10:16 AM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Austintatious
I'm not so sure this issue is exclusive to a certain brand of trailer.
My Clipper has a 2/16 build date. From the day I picked it up I couldn't get the claw lever to set. Had to drive forward a few hundred feet before it would set itself.
Trying to uncouple was a pain in the butt. I also had to carry a hammer to knock the claw lever open. Literally broke a finger lifting/moving/persuading the tongue to release.
Last week I had the dealer look at it. They told me the tech was going to show me how to couple/uncouple the trailer. Okay, I guess I've been doing something wrong for 40 years.
Nope. He can't get it to uncouple either. Long story short he finally took a small pneumatic grinder to the claw, removed a tiny bit of material from it, and now the latch and tongue set/release as they should.
Because this particular claw design has no adjustment.
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Exactly, its exclusive to a certain run of frames that LCI made, using a certain batch of A frame couplers they received from their supplier. Over the weekend I tried 3 different 2-5/16 balls on ours and had one hell of a time getting them into the coupler. This was just attempting to get them in by hand without the weight of the trailer. All 3 of them go right in easily on my flat trailer, but not on the Roo. The manufacturer of the coupler is "Ram" and it is made in China. I'll be taking a die grinder to ours.
Page 15
http://midwestmarketingsolutionsllc....Res-8-4-13.pdf
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05-16-2016, 10:26 AM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp
Exactly, its exclusive to a certain run of frames that LCI made, using a certain batch of A frame couplers they received from their supplier. Over the weekend I tried 3 different 2-5/16 balls on ours and had one hell of a time getting them into the coupler. This was just attempting to get them in by hand without the weight of the trailer. All 3 of them go right in easily on my flat trailer, but not on the Roo. The manufacturer of the coupler is "Ram" and it is made in China. I'll be taking a die grinder to ours.
Page 15
http://midwestmarketingsolutionsllc....Res-8-4-13.pdf
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Looks like they're about 18 bucks a pop. Seems pretty cheap to me! I'd have been willing to pay an extra $10 for my RV to get a better one!
http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/...Name=ca-5200-b
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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05-16-2016, 10:31 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
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$13.50 if you buy 50.
If you buy 1000 they probably pay you for taking them.
LCI cuts every corner they can find, and the manufacturers are fine with it.
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05-22-2016, 03:24 PM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Maine
Posts: 471
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I was worried after reading these posts, that I would have the same problem with the coupler and ball on my 23ws.............But it nicely came undone when it was time to leave the campground.
With my COPD, I don't see myself jumping on the bumper to release it. I guess since mine was built in 2015, it is a different batch of A frame......Made my day!
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05-22-2016, 07:19 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 133
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Has anyone tried sliding it back after lifting? Mine works easy.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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05-22-2016, 08:08 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PenJoe
I may be going against the grain on some of the suggestions, but I have been using this hitch for 10 years. Those of you who disagree should give this a try.
When hitching to the TV: TT wheels chocked front and rear. locate the ball of the TV under the cup, but slightly forward of the cup. The front curve of the ball should just touch the front of the TT cup. With the latch lever fully out, crank the TT jack down. The front of the TT cup will pull the TT slightly forward as is travels past the widest front part of the ball and then pulls back because the TT wheels are chocked. The TT hitch cup will be up against the front of the ball. The latch lever should seat into the locked position. You may have to tap it to make it seat. If it does not, make sure the latch locking around the rear of the ball has not bound up on the ball. It should not if the cup seated onto the ball. With the TT wheels still chocked, pull forward ever so slightly and the latch will seat. This only takes about a half inch movement forward. Remove the chocks and go.
When unhitching from the TV: TT wheel chocked front and rear. Unlatch the locking lever and crank the TT jack up. If the cup is seated with pressure on the front of the ball, cranking the jack will also start to lift the TV bumper. This is OK. Crank high enough so that when the ball falls out of the cup, it will at least expose half of the ball. Then put the TV in reverse and nudge back ever so slightly and the ball will drop out of the socket. Then crank the TT jack until it full clears the top of the ball and drive out from under the cup.
This hitch design on the TT is a very secure design, but they can be a putz hitching/unhitching. It is best to hold the latch lever out as far as possible while cranking to make as much room as possible for the ball. I would not recommend making any mechanical adjustments to make it work easier. Lubrication is fine. This hitch is what it is and you don't want any play when it is properly locked in.
A suggestion for those of you that have a TV backup camera. Paint the front portion of your TT hitch a bright contrasting color. When backing up to the hitch, it is much easier to see day or night even from a distance.
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Thanks for the tip on painting it for visibility! Why wasn't that obvious too me? I went outside the minute I read your post...taped it up and painted.
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2013 F150, EBoost,4x4,CC, MaxTow
2015 Surveyor 245BHS
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