De-lamination on bed doors

[Awatkins]

If it’s sealed really good do you think it will get worse still? I guess at some point they will need to be replaced right

[hack522]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

Only "issues" or "problems" with my 2006 Roo 23SS (built June 2005) other than bed door lamination are/were simply stuff caused by age.

■ Roof leaked via the front clearance lights. Ruthless caulking fixed this.

■ Roof vent lid in the main salon turned to granola after 14 or 15 years despite being under a hood. Simple replacement.

■ Storage cabinet over the galley pulled out of the ceiling within the first month in service. Used a couple of the longer screws thoughtfully provided in the sawdust under the lower cabinets to secure permanently.

■ Entire wall behind the sofa pulled away from the main body -- could see the pavement down thru the gap. Caused by forcing kingsize sleeping bags behind the sofa back and fixed with caulk and longer screws and storing the sleeping bags elsewhere. Been fine the past dozen years.

■ Spare tire carrier broke from metal fatigue and vibration. Simple replacement.

■ Typical wear items like light bulbs, water heater anode, awning tears, etc. Hardly count as problems and not unique to the trailer or type trailer. It's a camper.

Pay attention to tire dates (not wear). I didn't and had a blow out at speed on the Ohio Turnpike causing an abort of a 500 mile trip.

-- Chuck

Chuck, interested where you used longer screws behind sofa. I made the same mistake as you with the sleeping bags. Can you send me more details on your repair?

[fz_sledhead]

We have a 2010 Roo 19, since new.

Had/have the same issue on ours. As others have said it is from water, NOT sun. However, more likely an issue with the seals around the door....not the caulking at the top of the front panel, as that would cause water issues elsewhere. The seals tend to loose their effectiveness over time, by getting compressed and deformed. I also think it is more from towing in heavy driving rain that from being stored outside, as the seals get much more of a work-out in those conditions.

I ordered the replacement door directly from FR and installed it myself....yes, it is a bit involved but doable in a day or two. Be sure to replace all the seals at the same time.

The issue isn't the delamination itself....used ours for years that way...rather the condition of the wood inside the door. Ours got to the point that the mushiness (felt only from the inside when the door is down/open) was more that we were comfortable with regarding our personal safety sleeping on it.

The back door also has some delam on it, but it sill feels pretty solid and doesn't get much use, so I haven't replaced it yet.

Other than the door issue, it has been an awesome trailer with no other issues.

If you do purchase the trailer, even if you don't replace the door(s), I would definitely put new seals on them...both the inner and outer. to increase the life.

Brian

[garywilson]

As light as the damage looks in the pics, I'd purchase and repair if I wanted it.
No point in replacing doors yet (if ever).
In addition to moisture, sometimes 'they' just didn't put enough glue on them.

My neighbor's trailer has several places in the center that the laminate is coming loose and not near any seam, just not enough glue.
Been that way several years... maybe he will fix it some day.

[Awatkins]

Thank you. Do you have a link to the seals i would need?

[itat]

Originally Posted by Awatkins

Thank you. Do you have a link to the seals i would need?

In 2012 I had to have both bunk doors replaced on our 2010 Roo. This is from a post I made back in 2013:

New bed cores (no framing), Part #10-633 $210 plus $25 crating
New complete bed doors (with framing and hinge), Part #10-D-2003T $330 plus $25 crating
Bed seal replacement kit, Part 10-03685A $103
The prices above were in US dollars and didn't include shipping charges.

You'll need to contact Rockwood to confirm the part number(s) you need.

I recommend changing the rubber pads on the lock latches, too, so that you get as tight a seal as possible.

[itat]

FYI, here's a video showing how the water gets past the seals and how this person added new seals (not Rockwood parts).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cssVWGfP570

As I recall, the water would sit in the bottom of the frame and wick into the core of the bunk doors. Plus the screws holding the bunk door frame were exactly where the door edge seals contacted the frame so they introduced a way for water to get past the seals. Overall, it was a poor design prior to when they started permanently attaching the tenting to the doors.

[hyperfan]

Three years ago we bought a 2012 Roo Hybrid for $7,000. It was in great shape when we got it but after our first washing of the unit it developed delamination in the same place you are seeing it. We had it professionally cleaned, waxed and caulked and there has been no more delamination. It is still structurally sound and my grandkids sleep in it during camping trips. We have found no water damage to the bed. Delamination is so frustrating and so hard to fix without replacement which we were not willing to do.

[ebemis]

All of everyone's offers about YES its from water intrusion are spot on. Chuck_S, bikendan and rsdata have ALL ALWAYS shared excellent feedback and information based on what I clearly have read as years and decent experience with Hybrid Trailers and I have paid attention to all of it! They are especially spot on about the general "it really is up to you on how comfortable you are about the purchase" as from what I can see in the pics your delamination is in its "the early stages" because it hasn't crept too far. You could get inside the rig with the bed down, lift the mattress and check out the entire bottom edge (and more) of the bed door to see if anything is squishy or not. YES the hinge is where all the support on that edge comes from so just make sure that is strong and solid.

SO now for my 2 cents....

The first penny is this....use the delam as a bargaining tool. When it comes to used trailers, NONE of them are really worth ANY written word you will find anywhere else, rather they are ONLY worth what the next highest bidder will pay! In other words, if the price works for you and nobody else is standing in line to pay more... then it works for you. If nobody else is snooping around the potential purchase, tell the seller that based on the trailer's age and the clear water intrusion created delimitation that will need attention, you think the trails is worth "$X" instead and see if he bites or not. Factor in how long the trailer has been "on the offer pad" and go from there, if it hasn't garnered a lot of interest, then don't offer more than a much lower amount, one that would make you happy to pay if the seller accepted on the spot.

The second penny is this... YES replacing a door is doable (I haven't done it myself but..) as you will find plenty of folks on here and other google searches who have done it. YOUR comfort level with taking on a task like that would only be known by you. I know many RV sales/service locations will sometimes work with you on buying replacement parts that can't be shipped "normally" and involve freight. Depending on your relationship with those folks, you might find one willing to order new doors for you and then NOT charge you shipping because they just get them put inside another unit being shipped from the factory to them.... it doesn't always happen but you won't know if you don't ask.

[tasniroc]

[QUOTE=Awatkins;2681729]Thank you. Do you think the price is right?$14,000. The trailer is in excellent condition beside the little delam on the door?[/QUOTE check for delam in other areas by using good tape in different areas. If there is no more delam you may consider refinishing the whole door or see what a bodyshop would charge for repairs . You would lose the lettering just so you know .
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