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Old 09-18-2021, 08:37 AM   #1
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Does the Rockwood Roo 19 have an inverter?

I'm still having issues running my camper w my battery. It runs fine when plugged into either the tow vehicle or at the site.. It's not the battery (just replaced it). I replaced the circuit breaker under the tongue and it got better but something is still tripping it. Some general research indicates the inverter might be going bad. Does the Rockwood Roo 19 have an inverter? I can't find it in the manuak.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:50 AM   #2
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you have a CONVERTER which makes 12VDC out of 110 VAC when plugged into shore power plug

this 12 VDC makes your lights work, the awning, the radio, the electric jack and the fridge when propane is turned on

AN INVERTER takes 12 VDC and makes 110 VAC... and MOST trailers do not have them from the factory and I doubt yours does either... some of the newest trailers do have them these days, but the trailers usually come with some solar assist also

You should have a pull out knob under the fridge near the electrical panel that is a 12 VDC cutoff switch and it should be pushed in when operating the camper

Please post the model year for your camper,
Please post the group type for the battery... ie group 24, 27, etc
Please give more details about what you are doing when the battery gives up.
What type of fridge Do you have, electric only or propane too?


A battery typically does not last very long, measured in hours not days.

To trouble shoot your electrical issues you are going to need an inexpensive $20 voltmeter available at any hardware store.

Watch a youtube video to explain how to use it.

Post your answers and more information will come your way to get you straightened out.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:28 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. Sorry 1st time posting. I have a 2017 Rockwood Roo 19. I have a 24 DC battery. My fridge is turned off but it is both gas and electric. Under my fridge is the electrical panel but I don't see a pull knob. The circuit breaker that I replaced under the tongue is a 24v/40amp.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ishorr73 View Post
Thanks for the reply. Sorry 1st time posting. I have a 2017 Rockwood Roo 19. I have a 24 DC battery. My fridge is turned off but it is both gas and electric. Under my fridge is the electrical panel but I don't see a pull knob. The circuit breaker that I replaced under the tongue is a 24v/40amp.
The pull knob is the battery disconnect switch. Yours may be on the A-frame and may be a red key that you turn.
If you don't disconnect the battery when not hooked to shore power, the parasitic power drains will kill the battery.
When you bought this trailer, did the seller not go over stuff with you.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:44 PM   #5
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Yes that's engaged. I'll get power for a min or two then I'll reset the circuit breaker. I'm usually just raising the hitch or lights.
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:27 PM   #6
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Yes that's engaged. I'll get power for a min or two then I'll reset the circuit breaker. I'm usually just raising the hitch or lights.
this tells me that your battery is probably compromised... you will not know until you obtain a voltmeter to make measurements

a 24 DC battery is MINIMAL battery power that will not last a night without being recharged

trailer plugged into shore power...
13.2 or higher VDC measured at battery terminals battery is charging via the CONVERTER

disconnected from shore power and sitting for several hours...
12.6-7 VDC battery fully charged

12.0 VDC or less battery fully discharged

10.0 volts or less battery compromised and self-destructing

Telling me that the fuse under the tongue blows tells me that the battery IS LOW voltage thereby trying to pull AMPS to make up for that low voltage

The fridge is a 120 VAC OR 12 VDC and propane ( if the propane is turned on)

take some measurements and post back...
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:45 PM   #7
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Plus your battery is probably a basic dual-purpose marine battery which is not a true deep cycle battery. If it has a CCA rating, then it's a compromise battery because CCA is a motor starting rating, which is useless for a trailer.
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Old 09-19-2021, 09:05 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply. It will take me some time to take some measurements. I don't have a volt meter. The battery is a new interstate 24DC marine/RV from Costco. Is that the wrong type? What kind should I have gotten?
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Old 09-19-2021, 10:18 PM   #9
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Thanks for the reply. It will take me some time to take some measurements. I don't have a volt meter. The battery is a new interstate 24DC marine/RV from Costco. Is that the wrong type? What kind should I have gotten?
Well, as long as you camp with electric hookups, it's fine.
But not if you are planning to dry camp or boondock. If you plan on doing either, at minimum, get two 6 volt golf cart batteries. Other more expensive choices are AGMs or LiPo.
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Old 09-20-2021, 07:39 AM   #10
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Thanks for your patience! I'm still learning about the electrical. Goofy question. If I get a 6v battery do I have to change the circuit breaker under the tongue? Also is the purpose of the 12v just to run the lights, a few outlets plus the hitch?
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Old 09-20-2021, 12:02 PM   #11
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Thanks for your patience! I'm still learning about the electrical. Goofy question. If I get a 6v battery do I have to change the circuit breaker under the tongue? Also is the purpose of the 12v just to run the lights, a few outlets plus the hitch?
First, Google "the 12 Volt Side of Life". It's a good primer on the two different RV electrical systems, 12v DC and 110v AC.
Second, you can't use a single 6v battery. You have to use two connected in series, in order to have 12 volts.
Third, 12v power is required to run a lot of things. You are required by law to have 12v to power the trailer's breakaway switch, in case it disconnects from the tow vehicle.
Fourth, the outlets are 110v AC only. They will only work on shore power or generator, unless you have a whole house inverter.

Don't know about the circuit breaker and I don't know what you mean by "to run the hitch". The hitch isn't powered.
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Old 09-20-2021, 12:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Also is the purpose of the 12v just to run the lights, a few outlets plus the hitch?
assuming you mean hitch lift jack... yes you need 12 VDC to run that

The only thing the battery does not power is the microwave and the 110 VAC outlets...

As long as you can't make measurements you are just guessing your battery level... you need a way to measure voltage... Walmart, hardware store, HomeDepot all have about $20 voltmeters... get one... you do not need an expensive one...

Your Costco 24 DC battery is the minimum battery to have IF you plan on hooking to SHORE POWER 110VAC power plugs all the time, otherwise it is pretty much useless for camping WITHOUT power.
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Old 09-20-2021, 09:43 PM   #13
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My 2009 ROO doesn't have an inverter. I have two 6v golf cart batteries (wired in series to produce 12 volts) and two 100 watt solar panels with a charge controller. It produces enough to run indefinitely if we're cautious with electrical use. The golf cart batteries are true deep cycle batteries. Most trailers come with Marine batteries, which are hybrid batteries, and not really suited for trailer use. If you're rich, get some lithium batteries, they are better because they can be fully discharged without damage. Flooded Lead Acid batteries have shortened lives if they are discharged below 50%. If you're going to boondock (camp where there is no power) you'll want to invest in a generator or more batteries and solar power. A battery monitor with a shunt will tell you exactly how much power is going in and out of your battery. Well worth it if you're boondocking.
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Old 09-21-2021, 07:31 AM   #14
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Count yourself lucky you have an LP/Electric refrigerator. All it needs is to be set to AUTO, the gas turned on, and some 12vDC power for off grid use and simply plug into shorepower to run on 110vAC. It will run for weeks on a single cylinder of propane. Those with "residential" or "12v" refrigerators need to stay on shorepower or have large battery banks. Solar battery charging is a bad joke in most of the country.

Your refrigerator does need 12vDC but only draws 0.12 amps so your battery is fine.

If the battery is left connected between camping trips the parasitic current draws of the propane detector and radio battery will kill it in a couple of weeks. The battery needs to be disconnected in storage.

A single Group 24 battery won't last a weekend if your lights are not LEDs (easy to convert) or won't last the night if you use the furnace. PM me with your email and I'll forward a spreadsheet with the measured amperage draws from my Roo 23SS.

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Old 09-21-2021, 01:58 PM   #15
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We had a two 24DP 12v batteries in parallel that came with our 2020 233S. Combo 12v/propane fridge. Lasts exactly one day with light use before needing recharge when dry camping. One trip, our generator died, and the batteries made it through both nights of the weekend, but were essentially ruined after that. Also lasts about a week in storage before needing recharge (if you forget to shut off the batteries). Our shutoff switch is mounted under the tongue, directly in front of the battery box. After the weekend mentioned above, I replaced the 12v 24DP's with 2 6v Trojan T-105+ GC batteries run in series. Fits in the same battery box, are true deep cycle, and lasts at least twice as long.
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