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05-26-2016, 12:50 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Maumee, Ohio
Posts: 97
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Free Solar Power
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05-26-2016, 02:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Mile Hi City
Posts: 639
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nice setup Ronknroos. I just finished installing 2 265W mono panels on mine with an Outback Flex80 controller. I'm hoping to add a third panel at some point. I have a GRP 27 battery and will see how a single battery lasts this holiday weekend boondocking. I had dual batteries on my last TT.
__________________
2015 Denali Duramax 2500
2017 Coachmen 229TBS
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05-26-2016, 02:18 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Westmoreland
Posts: 338
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dang your title got me excited like maybe this was a "free" solar set up to the 10th comment lol
nice set up, think that will be my next project, possibly next year. trying to limit myself to so much each year. we dry camp most often, just added a second battery in hopes that will help for this year. typically borrow my old man's generator on longer trips or can always hook up the truck if need be.
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06-01-2016, 07:29 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
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Nice setup - I was interested as to how my Roo233 was running the wiring for the Zamp system - since you got an Mttp charger I guess they don't allow for charging from the built in inverter system.
Cheers, Patrick
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06-01-2016, 07:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,748
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Not sure what the definition of free is, but my wallet sure knows.
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06-01-2016, 08:09 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Maumee, Ohio
Posts: 97
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The Z-amp connection installed from the factory was meant to go with the Z-amp panels. If the Z-amp panels where purchased it would include a charger controller. I find that the Z-amp system is expensive and not enough watts. What surprised me the most was the very small wiring that ran from the Z-amp connector to the battery (#16ga). Even thought the amps being carried are relatively small, the goal is to try reduce, as much as possible, any voltage drops in the wiring/connectors. 10ths of a volt can make a difference in a battery. I rewired everything with #10ga wire.
I get a hoot out of getting power from sunlight, but it certainly was not free. I think that I have about $500.00 in the entire set-up. For me and the DW not worrying about finding a campsite with electric is priceless.
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06-02-2016, 09:36 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 12
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I'm glad I found this thread. I'm going to have to look into my wiring. I have a Roo 233S and got the ZAMP 350 watt system to accompany it. According to the dealer, this was the largest system I could get for the pre wired system in the camper. Based on the gauge wire you all are talking about, I'm way over it's capacity.
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06-03-2016, 06:52 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Maumee, Ohio
Posts: 97
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I can't speak for the wiring on the 233S, but on my 17 it was 16ga wire. If I am thinking correctly your 350 watts of panels could possible produce a maximum of 17.5 amps although in reality it is probably something around 15 amps at best. The NEC rates 16ga wire, single conductor in free air at 24 amps, so you aren't going to overload your wiring but it will produce some unwanted voltage drops. This means that you are not getting the full benefits of your solar panels. IMO the connector is probably more of an issue than the wiring. If it is the same connector that I have then it is only rated for 10 amps. Furrion makes a 30 amp twist lock inlet connector. If you replace the Z-amp connector just make sure you label it for solar only. Wouldn't want to accidently plug a 120v extension cord into it.
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01-02-2023, 10:40 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Southern New York
Posts: 14
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To flyhmi
Hi.Know that your post was a while ago but thought that i would try asking anyway.How did you attach brackets to the roof?Believe that roo roofs are only 1/4 in plywood and not many supports to attach to.How has it held up if you still have the rig?Regards....Tommy.
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