Gutter for Bunk Ends - Opinions on how to attach

[233s]

Hi all,

I think I have come up with a solution to keep water off of the bunk ends in my 2017 233s Roo when they are closed. I will be using these Rainhandler Gutter Extensions, which are 2" deep. They'll push the water right over the seam at the top of the bunks so that I don't have to worry about leaks.

Rainhandler 2 in. x 5 ft. Brown Aluminum Fascia Mounted Drip Edge Extension with Screws-RHDE-2B - The Home Depot

I was looking for some opinions about how to mount them. I have two options:

1) Remove the screws holding the top of the bunks to the coach, and reinsert the screws through the gutter and into the original holes. I would caulk behind so that water doesn't run behind the gutters.

2) Use double-sided tape to adhere the gutters just above the bunks.

I've painted them black, and I think they would look great using the screws. However, I'm a little sheepish about removing screws.

What do you think would be the best option?

[Boojca1]

There was a whole thread in this forum about this very thing. I think the final determination was to use eternabond to attach bc what the poster used did not hold long. I would do a search for "gutter" and find that thread, though.

[Boojca1]

Oh, and I woldn't mess with the screws. I think that is asking for trouble...water trouble, that is...

[233s]

Thanks for the quick reply.

Yeah, I'm a little nervous about the screws too. Didn't know if I was just being paranoid.

I don't think eternabond would work, as it only has adhesive on one side.

I do think heavy duty double sided tape will do the trick. These gutters are really light weight. My only fear is that wind may catch under the front one while towing, but I think it'll be ok.

[Finster]

I went a different route, and used aluminum angle iron for a gutter. Its probably quite a bit heavier than what you plan to use. I attached it with 3M double sided tape. This stuff;

Its been on there since spring, and held for over a few thousand miles. I check them periodically to make sure they're not working loose. So far, so good.

[233s]

It's great to hear that someone else has tried the double sided tape route and it worked. That stuff is really strong, so I'm sure it'll be pretty much permanent.

I'm sold. Thanks for the feedback!

[Boojca1]

Finster, yours may be the post I was thinking of! I know there are a few who have tried it on there. there was someone whose adhesive did not work well, though. Again, I'd search the forum and find the thread.

[djemgoss]

Finster, what were the dimensions of the aluminum angle that you used?
Thanks

[233s]

Boojca1, I just found the double sided eternabond. Didn't realize they made that. Thanks for the suggestion. Have had good experience with eternabond products, so might give this one a shot. Thanks again!

[Finster]

Originally Posted by djemgoss

Finster, what were the dimensions of the aluminum angle that you used?
Thanks

I used 1/16" x 1" aluminum angle. I picked it up from a local steel fabrication shop, where I buy most all my metal. But I'm sure home improvement stores would carry it. It's the same width as the 3m tape. After hanging it, I realized that it sits about flush with the bunk door when closed and thought I might have been better off getting the 1-1/2". But the 1" is lighter, and still covers the seal so it does what it's supposed to more or less. The 6-1/2 foot stick only weighs a couple of pounds.

[Pkostiw]

Morning, I went to a local roofing supply company and purchased flashing for the drip tray. The cost was less that $5.00 a length. For the tape we went to an autobody supply shop and purchased the same tape that is used to fasten body side mouldings. They also provide a wipe to clean the area. Thought if it can hold the trim on a car it would be fine for the trailer. My main concern was if for what ever reason the trim needed to come off would it damage the fibreglass. That's the reason I went to the body shop

[njfishing]

Here is a quick and dirty fix for those that have the newer style bunks ends... It's made out of a length of PVC cut down the middle... As you will see, it fits in the channel that is attached to the trailer and goes over the seal... It basically does the same thing as the metal drip edge but no gluing or screwing needed.

[233s]

Thanks njfishing. I have a similar set up, but uses a garden hose. It works great, but I'm trying to set it up so that I don't need to put it back up every time.

I know that a lot of people don't have leaking, but mine certainly leak. Not a lot, but enough to stain the canvas. I bought it used, but it's a 2017.

I absolutely love this trailer though, so it's a little add on that I think will do the trick!

Thanks again to everybody that replied. I really appreciate the help!!!